I thought I answered this?
Want to bypass your vehicle security system?
The short answer is you can't!
All modern cars have alarms and immobilizers. There is a transponder in the key and a receiver around the ignition lock. If both are present, the ECM (engine control module) or BCM (Body Control Module) releases power to the ignition circuit or the starter. When you turn the key, the starter spins the engine and you get a spark. If any one of those three items are not in the chain, you get the engine to turn, but no spark. There is no way to beat the system. You have to fix what is wrong, not find a way around it.
The immobilizer is in place to stop exactly what you are trying to do.
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Posted by ADMIN... on Mar 26, 2016
ok... there are a couple of things you can do. i must have miss typed on the cap,rotor . in the back of the motor where the plug wires conect that is the cap that is bolted to the distributor with two torques bits that i believe are t15 in size. there may lie your problem. the posts inside are made of aluminum and they get coroded and dont alow the proper spark. the other commen problem is the exhaust the catalitic converter becomes pluged up. something you can try is remove one of the oxigen sensors and try to start it up if it runs the cat needs replaced. the o2 sensor is a 7/8 nut to remove it. give it a try
surely not done with batter connected, right
or battery reconnected backwards.
clicks key off? no told when or how.
my wild wild guess, battery is dead or simply DIS charged.
Hi Teresa,Yes, you are correct. The mirror bracket (the small piece - see picture below) has to come out of the mirror stem in order to get the thing glued back on to the windshield.MOST GM vehicles have either a Hex or Torx head screw that holds onto the bracket. (see picture below)If your mirror does not have this screw, then it is held by a spring clip (which is what I think you are describing). If this is the case, look at the bottom edge of the mirror stem/bracket assembly. There will be a small hole (slot) between the mirror stem and the mirror bracket. Take a paper clip and shove it as far as possible up in the hole. This will push and hold the spring clip back so you can slide the bracket out of the mirror stem. Please note that you are only trying to get the paper clip BETWEEN the spring clip and the bracket - the spring clip does not come out of the mirror stem assembly without breaking things. (Sorry, I do not have a picture of this type of fixture)When you go to glue the bracket onto the windshield, make sure that all of the old glue is cleaned off first. A razor blade works well for this task. Then follow the directions in your mirror glue kit for applying the primer and glue.Make sure the bracket is oriented correctly when you stick it to the windshield. Some mirror glues are very unforgiving and will stick almost instantly, making corrections nearly impossible.One more hint: If the old glue (or the outline of the old glue) is still on the windshield, use a "sharpie" pen to trace around it on the OUTSIDE of the windshield. This will serve as a "locator" once you have cleaned and primed the windshield in preparation for the bracket to get glued. The pen mark can be cleaned off with regular windshield washer fluid when you are finished.
I tried the DIY service and repair manuals from a website and it actually helped me repair transmission problem in my ford explorer. it wont move forward or
reverse, engine is good both solenoids for forward and reverse work.
I don't have much technical knowledge but I just followed it step-wise, and works perfect! got it from www.reliable-store.com
You will get your solution and all info on service info, repair info, parts info, wiring/electrical/fuse diagrams, error/fault codes, torque specs, PCV,
owner's/service/repair/parts/maintenance manuals etc everything
this website www.reliable-store.com
it's a very good website for vehicle problems even as old as 1991 ford..
I think you could use this manual method instead.. My nephew who is a full time mechanic uses it
most of the times,
and all mechanics look up to manuals. It's very easy he gets it from. www.reliable-store.com
My first concern is: how do you know there isn't fire? Did you
1- Check it with a screwdriver inside the spark plug wire at spark plug end to ground. This isn't the right way.
2- Have you check fire with HEI spark tester.
(The right way). To see a spark with the tester there will be 25k the spark to jump to ground and it test the coil working properly.
Now the fire system or ignition spark work this way.
When the engine is turning up to 400rpm the camshaft gear inside the engine makes distributor shaft turning. We often see the distributor gear at the end worn like an eaten apple.
Remove the Dist. Cap Somebody starts the engine look for the rotor if it turns. This will tell you the gear is OK.
P.S; What you call the SENSOR = Ignition Module just to let you know
Hope it helps
Common problems
1. fuel filter clog and fuel pump stop working
2. Crankshaft sensor (spark is cut during high demand)
3. Air filter clog (not enough air during high rpm
hope it helps
probably changed the wrong sensors
The units you should have replaced are the heated oxygen sensors in the exhaust manifold before the cat converters (HO2S)
oxygen sensors(O2S ) are after the cat converters codes p 0171,0174 are lean mixture codes and p 150,p0154 are HO2S sensor faults
as the Ho2s sensors read the composition of the exhaust gas and report to the ECM to adjust the fuel settings then t faulty HO2S sensors will result in a lean or rich reading resulting in the other codes
What is wrong????????? That would be a guess on anyones part here ! Testing the electrical circuits involved would be the proper way to diagnose this no start problem ! Using a volt meter an wiring diagram to check voltage at different point's in the starter circuit . voltage drop testing ! Plus knowing how the starter system works !
Starter Circuit Operation
Voltage is applied at all times to the ignition switch from the IGN A fuse through CKT 42 (RED). When the ignition switch is turned to the START position, voltage is applied to the CRANK fuse through CKT 5 (YEL). From the CRANK fuse , voltage is either applied to the clutch pedal position switch (M/T) or the park/neutral position switch (A/T) through CKT 806 (PPL). When either the clutch is disengaged (M/T) or the transmission is in park or neutral (A/T), voltage is applied to the coil of the starter relay through CKT 1035 (PPL/WHT). Since the starter relay is permanently grounded at ground G102 through CKT 150 (BLK), the starter relay energizes.
Voltage is applied at all times to the starter relay contacts from IGN A fuse through CKT 42 (RED). When the starter relay energizes, the starter relay contacts close, and voltage is applied to the starter motor solenoid. Since the starter motor solenoid is permanently case grounded, the starter motor solenoid will energize two coils. The pull-in winding coil energizes in order to pull the starter motor solenoid contacts closed. When the contacts close, a plunger on the contacts causes the pull-in winding coil circuit to open. The hold-in winding coil then holds the starter motor solenoid contacts closed. Voltage is then applied to the starter motor from the battery through CKT 1 (RED) and the closed contacts of the starter motor solenoid. Since the starter motor is also permanently case grounded, the starter motor will run until the ignition switch is moved out of the START position. When this happens, a spring in the starter motor solenoid moves the starter motor solenoid contacts and the plunger back to the rest position.
Starter Voltage DropHow to voltage drop test starter motor circuit
Check the fuel injectors, with the key on one side of the two wire connector will have battery voltage, if none is present then check the ECM fuses in the underhood fuel box.
was the new ecm flashed to this vehicle --also what saused ecm to burn up you may have other connections --fuses--relays burnt up also need to test the obdll connector possible damage or blown fuse if the sonoma's accessory /cig lighter is out usually shares same fuse as the obdll port
Sounds like more than one issue, not getting as hot as before, and slow to change from vent to defrost, The first I suspect you have a thermostat failing, not a big job or expensive either, remove the thermostat putt it in an old pan full of water bring it up to a boil, with a thermometer (I use a meat thermometer from the dollar store as you won't want to use it for food again) watch at what temp the thermostat pops if it doesn't pop at around 180 then replace it.
second is the delay in switching from vent to defrost, again is not to expensive but is a bit troublesome as it sounds like you have a weak vacuum the louvers are moved by little dash pots the dash pot that moves the louver behind the dash could have a bad diaphragm or a crack vacuum line. not expensive just a pain to get at. a can of wd40 with the straw in place can help diagnose the problem if it changes properly when sprayed at time of activation (the line first then the dash pot) you will have found the bad boy Good luck
