Engine runs fine then stalls...problem is intermidiate

As when an ignition module cuts off, then after cooling off, works again.
As when a faulty alarm relay cuts the engine out intermittently.
Many new parts in there now, is the distributor pickup coil new too?
Many more parts can be replaced at random without diagnosing. To save time and energy, diagnose. When it is having a tantrum it is time to check, motor needs fuel, spark, and compression to run and by what is happening, one needs to find which is absent, which keeps the motor from running.
Does it have spark, injector signal? A 12V led test light or a noid light is used to detect the quick electric signal.
My opinion is it's electric issue, ignition component failing (pickup coil, control module), alarm, and/or possibly the ignition switch.

that is what it does, it senses the amount of air flow to engine, clean filter, it may be a simple as that

If it stalls in drive but not reverse, it could be a transmission problem.
Is the check engine light on ?

many things can cause this. the most common problem would be that the timing is slightly off. (fixed sometimes by adjusting the distributor) it could also be a bad fuel pump (or clogged fuel filter) this would allow enough fuel to run the engine in park but not enough to run the engine under stress. clogged air filter could also cause this (not allowing enough air into the cylinders). I would change the air filter and fuel filter. then crank the vehicle and slowly turn the distributor (finding the best idle position) then see what happens. lastly replace the fuel pump.

I had the exact problem with my 1993 chevy c1500. I found that the IAC was sticking so the engine would die at idle after warming up and the ignition module was pulsing the ECM intermittently after the engine warmed up so the fuel pump wasn't being turned on after the engine died....I replaced the ignition module and the IAC valve and all is good. I don't know if testing the ignition module reveals that it isn't sending pulses to the ECM.

1) Replace the radiator, it won't get better and will cause BIG problems later on, the plastic and aluminum radiators are fairly cheap (check rock auto for price)
2) Replace the TFI (thick film ignition) module mounted on the side of the distributor. Very common problem with Ford ignition systems
Something in the module opens when it gets hot, then works fine when it cools off. It's like someone turns the key off while driving, no warning, sputtering etc.You will need a thin wall 5.5 mm socket to change the module. Most auto part stores have a special wrench setup just for changing the module and it only costs a couple of bucks and makes the job a breeze. make sure you put plenty of dielectric grease on the mounting side of the module for proper installation (usually included with the module)

Test the fuel pressure. With gauge connected to the fuel rail turn key on, listen for pump, when it stops,turnthe key off and leave gauge connected for an hour. The original reading should been 50lbs., if it drops any more than a couple of pounds the pump is bad. The M.A.P. sensor sounds like it was another item in itself.

What I see the most often is a stalled engine with a loss of spark when driving. Once the engine cools off it will sometimes start and run fine for a short while then do the same thing again. Often, but not always, the pickup up coil or ignition module [both are under the distributor cap] have to heat up quite a bit before they will act up. I replace about 10 ignition modules for every one pickup coil but either one can cause the same identical stalling problem. I keep a few known good modules around as test units so I can just replace a suspected bad module and road test it to see if it works. Another thing that can go wrong in these distributors are the magnets built into the pole piece. A weak or cracked magnet can cause all kinds of odd problems such as stalling when placed in reverse, misfires over 1,000 rpm, etc. Worn bushings in the distributor can also cause problems. As far as a specific test you can do to see which part is failing? I wish there was a relaible one. I've tried using a lab scope and module testers to diganose the culprit but you have to catch the problem as it's happening for those tests to be accurate.

bro, check ur main relay. its under the dash. replace it, check also ur distributor(replace it). and also your ECU

Happens all the time with 70's 80's and 90's GMC trucks. Replace the control module in the distributor cap.