R&R distributor all new parts[intrenal]new coil. no spark at coil

Is there a tach place on the distributor cap? If so, use a test light on that terminal, engine cranking, see if the lite pulses? A pink wire should carry voltage to coil or distributor cap. It goes got with the key on? Use a test lite and check for voltage. A couple of possibilities, check the ignition module and pickup coil in distributor. Does the distributor rotor turn when you crank it? With gm bypass ignition, it's the ignition module that controls spark during cranking rpms, not the computer.
There is an oil pressure switch in the fuel pump circuit, so once you crank it enough to bring up oil pressure and that switch closes, the fuel pump will run even w/o a rpm signal, but, for other components, the rpm signal is important.
The ignition module gets signal from pickup coil, engine cranking, then ignition module sends rpm signal to computer on purple wire with white tracer. If no signal, the computer won't ground the fuel injectors, among other issues.

Well, you know the ignition coil has to be good. then the ignition control module inside the distributor has to be good. It controls the ignition coil firing times. This module can be tested at a parts store. And then, also in the distributor and attached to the ICM is the pick-up coil which tells the computer crankshaft position, so the computer knows when to signal the Ignition Control Module that it is to cause spark out of the coil. These are the components of the ignition system, so you know how to check them. Ignition coil, ICM, pick-up coil, and the pcm, computer.

First, check that power is getting to the coil when the key is turned to on. The coil must have battery voltage applied to it before it can cause spark. If there is power there, test the ignition coil, test the ICM, then the pick-up coil. If your wiring is good, one of them components may have failed. And of course, the last thing to suspect is the computer, the pcm. Hope you don't have to get that far.

Did you check primary voltage to ignition coil? red wire with lite green tracer, use a test lite to check voltage, goes hot with key on, circuit is fuse protected.

Do you mean no spark from the coil or distributor? Because the coil needs battery voltage to it to operate.
If you have no spark from the coil wire and you believe the wire is good or you have no reason to suspect it failing in a very short time, then before you do anything else, you should check if the small, pink wire to the little + side of the coil is a live wire (has current or voltage, and the connection is clean and tight) when the key is in on position. If no power there, the ignition switch or the wiring from the switch to the coil is bad.
If you have power to the coil, then either the coil or the electronic ignition module (inside the distributor, I think) may be bad. They can both be tested. Auto parts stores will test the ignition module for free. There are other possibilities for no spark, like a computer fault, or a bad pick-up coil, or a wiring or grounding fault, but for starters test the coil or swap in a known good one. If not the coil, check the ignition module next.
Good luck. Don't see many of those cars on the road anymore. Hope you keep it running.

There wrere two types of HEI (High Energy Ignition) distributors used by GM in 1985, one was the original design with the ignition coil mounted in the top of the distributor cap, and the second had the coil mounted seperate from the distributor and used a coil wire.

There is the possibility that the ignition coil is faulty and first check to see if full battery voltage is even getting to the "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position, and also if the coil is seperate from the distributor that full battery voltage is getting through the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil and over to the distributor ignition module, dis-connect the wire connector from the ignition module and if battery voltage is not present at the connector to the ignition module with the key in the "Run" position but it is present at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If battery voltage is present then check the ohms between the high tension terminal (where the coil wire goes on the ignition coil) and the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil by first dis-connecting the wires from the ignition coil and then test with the "Neg" lead from the ohm meter in the high tension terminal on the ignition coil, and the "Pos" lead from the ohm meter to the the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil, and the ohm reading should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms and if not replace the ignition coil. A faulty ignition coil can also damage the ignition module.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That could be a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

Let me know if you require any further assistance.


GM HEI Ignition Coil (Mounted In Distributor Cap Type)

The first thing is do you know when the last time was that the distributor cap, ignition rotor, and spark plug wires were changed?

There is the possibility that the ignition coil is faulty and first check to see if full battery voltage is getting to the "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position, and also that full battery voltage is getting through the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil and over to the distributor ignition module, dis-connect the wire connector from the ignition module and if battery voltage is not present at the connector to the ignition module with the key in the "Run" position but it is present at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If battery voltage is present then check the ohms between the high tension terminal (where the coil wire goes on the ignition coil) and the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil by first dis-connecting the wires from the ignition coil and then test with the "Neg" lead from the ohm meter in the high tension terminal on the ignition coil, and the "Pos" lead from the ohm meter to the the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil, and the ohm reading should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms and if not replace the ignition coil. A faulty ignition coil can also damage the ignition module.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That could be a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

Let me know if you require a firing order diagram any further assistance with testing or diagnostic procedures.

could be crank & cam sensor if they do not meet in sinc they will not get spark

There are 3 possibilities. 1 the coil. 2 the ignition module. 3 the pick up coil. In my experience the ignition module is the most common cause. It is in the distributor held in with 2 screws. The coil and module can be tested at any parts house. Good Luck

check the voltage of the b+ terminal of the ignition coil (primary side) with a cheap multimeter while cranking. low voltage to the primary will cause low voltage on the secondary. also recheck all ground paths from the ignition module. ensure good connection from coil to module. note: new parts are not "known good parts" until it runs.--> IG.MOD.