20 Most Recent 1988 Chevrolet Suburban Questions & Answers

Well the ground wire comes from the sending unit, and is bolted with an eyelet to the inside frame rail near the cross member. If that connection is good, you can check the connection to the sending unit on top of the tank. I assume your pump is not running? Or no gauge?

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Check the compression ratio. If it's significantly higher than specification, you may be getting detonation, and will have to run higher octane gas. This can happen if the heads or block had to be resurfaced, or if the new pistons are a bit taller than the originals. It's also possible that there's a small leak between the exhaust manifold and the block or the catalytic converter (when I installed an overhauled engine once, it took a while to notice that the pipe bolts were stuck in rust in the manifold flange and were not actually applying compression to the gasket ring between the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe). This could throw off the oxygen sensor readings, resulting in an improper mixture, and would account for the noise.

It won't kick on if you have too little (or too much) refrigerant. There is a low-pressure switch and a high-pressures switch. Without doing a lot of troubleshooting, it's hard to even guess why it might not be starting.

u got 3 places it could b under dash on the sides of dash or under the hood next to battery

Drain the gas tank. I didn't have a lift so I used a floor jack under neath the gas tank. I used a piece of plywood on top of floor jack that would fit between tank straps. Take the fill tube loose, take fuel lines and electrical connectors loose. Take tank straps loose,you may have to drop tank a little to reach some connections. If I remember correctly the fuel pump is in the middle of tank. I don't know if you would want to cut hole in floor of surburban to reach pump? I don't have any info about cutting that hole, if you try that, that is your responsibility.

Hi it happen with me also actually the problem is the power window get jammed from the inner part..... you if you able to open it just open now clean it well then spray the lube into it and for a long time it work properly..... thankyou

First, adjust the brakes manually. The cable that runs to the rear end has an adjustment near the frame on the drivers side.

The flex plate is bad

Common sheet metal rattle sound is the shield on the catalytic converter. If the cat is plugged, damaged or you have an exhaust leak this can also be your lost power issue. Hopefully this helps but if you find other issues, I'll try again. Good luck!

It sounds like thw firing order's wrong, rotor might be positioned wrong, or the distributor is off a notch. The distributor cap might be 180 degrees off as well.

It could be an ignition problem, or low fuel pressure.If the spark plugs and ignition system are in good condition, I would check fuel pressure and the filter.If the throttle position sensor is failing, the check engine light should be on.

vortec engine?? if so, regulator is in belly of phlemum. what is your concern..

I would think that you need to replace the spark plug wires and the distributor cap and rotor here.

INSIDE PASS. SIDE FRAME RAIL

let me go outside and look. may be easier to fix ya up some kind of chart off a picture. Did not remember it being too complicated until I went to post this. Basically point the rotor directly at no.1 cyl. and then follow the track of the rotor one wire @ a time to the cylinder listed in the firing order printed on the intake manifold.1 front of driver side, then 2 front pass side , then 3 next one back driver side and 4next bact pass side and so on.

you have classic short to ground check wiring with ultimeter set to ohms and see wht the readings are it should read 12v on and 0.1-0.8 if closed if on and reads 12v= change ground lead to the alternator

Fuseable link between the battery and starter ?