Theres a light shape like a radiaton coming on

Check for AIR obstructions through the radiator. Leaves, bird nests, dead birds. Shine a light on the engine side, look through from the grille side, verify that you can see the light through the radiator at all points.

You may possibly have some partial plugging inside the radiator. With the engine warmed up but turned OFF, feel the radiator surface. If one area feels cooler than the rest, that may indicate an area of internal blockage.

You might try bleeding air out of cooling system. Elevate front of car on ramps and leave running. Remove radiator cap before engine gets hot. When engine starts to heat up, air bubbles may come out of top of radiator. Add coolant slowly as level drops. It may take a long time for car to warm up (15-20 minutes)

go under the jeep on right side make sure the clamp is open slide the small end of hose on the radiaton port and release clamp or tighten if sharedded clamp then do the same on the water pump port then chch the angle of hose and clarence make sure its not touching or rubbing any thing

There are several things which come to mind. You have 2 complaints. A gas smell and a cold blooded vehicle.

Starting with the temperature problem. My initial concern is whether the thermostat is weak, but also that the automatic controls may be inoperable and working against you. The car is suppose to go into a temporary "cold start routine" which increases the RPM and makes the fuel rich. (This could contribute to the gas smell)

After the Temperature sensor and O2 sensors warm up, the idle is suppose to drop and the fuel mix should lean out. If the engine remains at high idle, the water pump will work faster with the engine spinning faster. Sometimes there is not a direct 1 to 1 ratio between the heat generated by the motor and the RPM versus the cooling produced. An idling engine may warm up faster than an engine running at higher RPM.

Another problem may be the Defroster setting. There are Thermal switches which are suppose to cut off the Electric Radiator cooling fans. When the Defroster is activated, some cars are built to spin the A/C compressor in the Winter. But the Electric Radiator cooling fans may also switch on as part of the A/C system. This would super cool the radiator at a time when you least want it. Check to see if the cooling fans are activating when the Defroster is turned on.

There can be 2 Temperature switches in your car. One would send the signal to kick out the "cold start routine" and the other would work the guages or indicator lights.

The O2 sensors can have heaters in them or they can just be slow. If you leave the engine idling like you do, they could foul out and be sluggish to warm up.

If running the Temperature at 80 degrees causes an additional 5 minutes of warm-up time, you may be better off setting it for say 72 and having it work sooner.

The thermal sensors are not that expensive. Work on a cold engine when changing them. Note what I said about your rich fuel mix contributing to the smell.

Please rate my info.

Hello scrammy25,
I first, would like to apologize for the delay in my reponse to your question. Second, I have never replaced the thermostat on your make and model, however it's very simple.
1. Locate the top radiator hose2. Follow it to the block - you should a (bubble/round shaped object (thermostat housing) at the block side of the top radiator hose). This is where your thermostat should be located.3. Most thermostat housings have two to three bolts that secure it. Before removing it, it's a good idea to locate the petcock on bottom of the radiator and drain some (or all if you are replacing the fluid as well {good idea} ) of the fluid. 4. Remove the bolts (if readily accessible) and lightly twist and pull up on the housing. Sometimes it's necessary to use a small screwdriver to lightly pry up the housing as it may be "stuck" to the block - but be very careful doing this as not to "gouge" the surface of the housing or block, as this can create a potential leak. 5. Once this is removed, clean both the surface of the housing and the block, making sure the block is as dry as possible (some water will sit, and lightly spill over, this is okay). 6. With the housing surface clean, dry and free of all remains of the old gasket (use a straight blade from a box knife or such for lightly scrapping excess gasket), apply a thin coat of gasket sealer to the surface - place the gasket on, let dry for about 10-15 minutes. While waiting, apply a small coat of gasket sealer to the block side (where thermostat sits) and let dry as well 10-15 minutes. Remember, make sure not to use too much, as this can create "raised" areas, which will create a leak. 7. Once both surfaces have dried, insert the thermostat in it's correct placement - (spring side down, point (top looking side) up). Gently place the housing over the thermostat, and insert both bolts, tightening my hand first, then snug them with your wrench or ratchet. NOTE: Do not "over, or under-tighten these" as either can cause a leak as well - as soon you feel "tension" on the bolts, give them a quarter turn, then stop.
Once you have done this, let set for another 10-15 minutes, while you refill the radiator (if drained). Start engine (hose is on and secure to housing, if removed or loosened) and let engine reach operating temperature - watch the level of fluid in radiator (cap off, this is okay) and add as necessary. If you released any fluid, and added while engine was off, when starting the engine, the fluid level may drop once the thermostat is open at operating temperature, and if so, add water (or antifreeze) as necessary to fill (with engine running). Once the level remains steady, put cap back on radiator, and let engine run inspecting for leaks in all areas.
Please let me know if you have further questions,
carsandcomps

I had a similar problem. Replaced head gasket, but low coolant light stayed on. My problem was air in the system. A flush and fill kit may work, however, I had a local shop do a "flush and fill" and the problem remained. What I did... With vehicle running, and radiator cap off, bring engine to operating temperature. Increase rpms slightly above idle until coolant can be seen moving in radiator (thermostat open). Add small amounts of coolant, keeping the radiator level just below overflow hole in cap area. In my case, after about 15 minutes at slightly above idle rpms, a large pocket of air escaped. I topped off radiator, installed cap, and let engine cool. Problem has not returned in last six months. *Note coolant is VERY HOT, and if rpms fluctuate, coolant will expel quickly from radiator. Also, when the air pocket escaped, coolant also sprays out. Use caution to avoid being burned.

Honda used to put the temp switch to turn the fans on in the bottom left side of the radiator. Not sure if that is the case on yours, haven't worked on a Honda recently. Anyway, the switch operates a relay, not the fan directly. The fans would normally come on around 200 degrees. Also, one of the should come on when the A/C is on to move air through the condenser. Hope this helps... good luck.

It is possible that your thermostat is stuck open. Normally, the thermostat remains closed when starting cold, confining coolant to the engine block and cylinder head until it heats up. Once the coolant in the block is warm (usually within 10 minutes), the thermostat begins to open and let coolant flow into the radiator to cool it down some. A properly operating thermostat will continue to cycle until the coolant reaches the operating temperature of the thermostat--usually around 180 deg F. Then the thermostat will continue to adjust its opening to maintain that temp.

Thermostats can get stuck in both closed and open positions. When stuck closed, the engine will quickly overheat. When stuck open, the engine will take forever to warm up--especially in cold weather because the coolant is continually pushed into the radiator and cooled off before it ever has a chance to get warm. Changing the inexpensive thermostat may help correct your condition.

A radiator flush should be done every two years. But, I guess you've done this since you said you needed a solution other than a flush. The way your gauge acts leads me to believe you have an air bubble in the system. It'll have to be bled out. With the engine cold, remove the radiator cap and fill the radiator with the proper coolant mix. Start the engine and let it idle. Turn the head wide open. The engine should start to warm up and when the thermostat opens, the level in the radiator will drop. Keep the radiator full while the engine is running. The air should be pushed out of the open radiator and it could cause coolant to come out with some force so don't get your face close to the opening. After 15 minutes the engine should be properly warmed up and most if not all of the air should be out of it. You should also be getting hot air from the heater vents.

When you first start the engine you should be able to see the coolant moving as the water pump is working. If you don't get any movement then you may be looking at a bad water pump.

turn key to on position leave on for 15 minutes turn key off for 20seconds then then theft lock will reset car should restart