1995 blazer stalled on highway 0 rpm came right back then stalled again and will crank and not start. I was having an issue with a dead miss and had to crank a couple of times when cold before it would start. Cleaned the EGR and would start every time. 2 days later going down the hwy truck stalled 0 rpm then restarted itself within 1-2 seconds. Then stalled again and would crank but would not start sounded like it wanted to catch one time but did not. Towed it home and there is 8-9 volts going to the distributor no fire at the plugs. this is a new distributor cap, coil p/u (inside the distributor) rotor button, coil ( tried 3 different ones), brain (tried 3 different ones) crank sensor, I have checked all the wires for loose or broken wires not seeing anything. Is there anyone that can assist me. This is my only vehicle and I am on a fixed income. Thanks

no car told at all just year. cuts off?? means what?. we can not see car or drive it.
the engine stalls, 0 RPM driving? automatic transmission?
or engine misfires. (shakes hard felt and heard)
or engine bogs (means lack of engine power)smooth loss?

or all electrics go dead for sure head lamps driving,
radio goes dead
heater blower goes dead.
modern cars can have 30+ fuses and 50 +loads
Imagine a tree? and learn those paths.
and we learn to see if car has electrical problems first.
no car told so I give up
ok fast right foot can not save the stall. a free test

or engine runs great just dash fails.
I cannot figure it out.

Did you check primary voltage at the ignition coil? Pink wire, goes hot with the key on, any voltage there? That voltage comes from ecm 1 fuse.


I haven't looked for info on your instrument cluster, yet.

check all fuses.
cuts out hot or cold engine.????????
if it wont start and car gets 60k tuneup (?)
then connect scan tool and crank for 5 seconds.
see if you get scan DTC errors , cranking (release key) see em?
stalls are caused by over 50 reasons. guessing is impossible or very expensive.
enter: Diagnosis,
you take measurements, and find the failure path then work that path like bird dog.
2.5L 4cyl engine. I just sold min last week. with 5sp M/T
cuts out, does that mean the engine stalls?
we need to know what it really does.
1: stalls (engine rpm drops to 0 RPM)
2: engine rpm drops to 300rpm and shakes.
3: power loss from engine?
4: only stalls at stop signs...?
5: bogs all them time, same as #3
6: engine misfires (shake)
7: bogs only on throttle TIP-IN then recovers.
8: bogs only on hills.

i wait.
when dead, is spark lost?

id go for chicken feet and blood and voodoo , sessions.....loL

first off, i see an illegal fast idle ,
and all A/T trannys do that, when the engine rpm fraks up.
to move car, due to the stall speed rules of the clutch torque converter (aka ,the fluid clutch) wiki clutch stall speed.

that A/T weakness, is why folks run over kids. (the lame excuse)
starting a car with foot off the brake is , folly, thus the lock all outs called park lock features.

i can not follow your sequence of events.so will ask questions.
1: I start the engine, its don't want to but does. (ever tune it up?)

2: Does the CHECK engine lamp go out (CEL/SES)? running.
for sure, if the engines stalls many lights will glow in the cluster but that is normal, see? for any stall.!
The Charge light comes on anytime the Alternator goes dead
or hits near 0 RPM (stalled)
so are you saying at 3000 rpm, the charge lamp came on.
/??????
battery lamp is not battery, its really a Charge lamp.
the op guide states that too.
on my car I have a battery gauge too, and shows VOLTS.
at idle its 14v. its 14v at all rpm. if less, say so.
I have 2004. GV. with full manuals. even factory FSM. ++++++

ok , in drive, no acceleration, are you saying ,
1: im in A/T drive.
2: the engine is idling at 800 RPM hot or near 1500 cold
3000 is wrong, dead wrong, you in ALASKA, state location(gen)

i increase the RPM with my right foot and the car don't move
in DRIVE
as RPM rises above 1500 RPM, you do have a tacho , i see that.
if it does not move with hgher RPMs, the trans is bad or its TCM is bad.
on your car the TCM is hidden deep inside the PCM. back in 1997.

the PCM runs the engine and tranny today.
if something lies to the TCM/PCM the tranny will not go into drive.
on newer 96+ cars, you see the check engine lamp glow.
running (not stalled, stalling this CEL glows all the time)
but running, the CEL glowing means Faults found, scan me,. please.
eg:
so you scan it, and find DTC's stored (many?) eg.... in english...
the transmission selector switch is bad. or worse.
not using a scan tool ,means ($7 cost) means you miss all the facts. hard cold real facts.
the ECU can not shift any car with a bad selector switch.
so throws the DTC error.
it can be even be a loose selector cable, cave man simple.

recap.
does the CEL lamp stay out running at all times.
no, ? then scan it.
do not post car problems with stored, or pending DTCs on any car newer than 1995. or its just wild guessing.. mostly.

Try doing the following.

Engine stalling issue at low speeds

This problem is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and throttle valve. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control

shound most likly crank sensor/heat soak so to speak

have your IAC valve cheked

Battery Charged ?

Battery leads tight and clean?

Checked Engine earth ?

If all OK then motor probably got some **** on the brush gear get sombody to help you, firmly apply hand brake.... ENSHURE IS IN NUTRAL OR PARK!
while they hold kek in crank position tap the starter motor with a hammer to free the crrap... that shuld do it!

Have A Great Day.......Bruce

Crank shaft sensor or air mass meter, is this a v6? I had the 2,6 a4 same fault same miles funny enough. changed the air mass meter is was ok after that. thing is they have so many sensors, you need to get it on a diagnostic machine to be sure.

Remove and clean all the battery cable connections and replace bolts