Cylinder #4 misfire

Hi Chris.

p0304 = Number 4 Cylinder Misfire Detected

Faulty spark plug 4
Clogged or faulty fuel injector 4
Faulty ignition coil 4
Fuel injector 4 harness is open or shorted
Fuel injector 4 circuit poor electrical connection
Ignition coil 4 harness is open or shorted
Ignition coil 4 circuit poor electrical connection
Insufficient cylinder 4 compression
Incorrect fuel pressure
Intake air leak

The P0304 code means that the cylinder 4 is misfiring or is randomly misfiring. Start by checking for intake leaks an if no leaks are found the next step is to replace the spark plugs on cylinder 4.


p0102 = Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input

Faulty mass air flow sensor
Intake air leaks
Dirty mass air flow sensor
Dirty mass air filter
Mass air flow sensor harness is open or shorted
Mass air flow sensor circuit poor electrical connection

Before replacing the mass air flow sensor, try replacing the air filter and cleaning the air flow sensor with low compress air or mass air flow sensor cleaner.
Reset code and drive vehicle.
If the code comes back, it may be necessary to replaced the mass air flow sensor.


p0154 = O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected Sensor 1 Bank 2

Faulty Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 2
Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 2 harness is open or shorted
Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 2 circuit poor electrical connection
Inappropriate fuel pressure
Faulty fuel injectors
Intake air leaks may be faulty
Exhaust gas leaks

Replacing the Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 2 usually takes care of the problem.


p0113 = Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit High

Faulty Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor
Dirty air filter
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor harness is open or shorted
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor circuit poor electrical connection

The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor is built into mass air flow sensor or in some vehicles mounted to the air filter duct housing. The sensor detects intake air temperature and transmits a signal to the Engine Control Module (ECM).The temperature sensing unit uses a thermistor which is sensitive to the change in temperature. Electrical resistance of the thermistor decreases in response to the temperature rise. The Intake Air Temperature signal is used as an input for various systems in the vehicle.



Hope this helps
FYT

http://www.autocodes.com/make/nissan

If your thermostat is sticking open, the vehicle never reaches operating temperature. Moisture in the engine is never vaporized and burned off. This is also normal if you only drive short distances. Take your vehicle for about an hour drive and the moisture should be gone.

Oil sludge can be caused by a few different things. I don't think you have head gasket/head problems as you say you've been using the vehicle for 6 months.

However, do check your oil dipstick and see if the same sludge (also known as 'mayonnaise') is on it. Mayonnaise on a dipstick is a symptom of a defective head gasket that is allowing coolant into the oil system.

If your vehicle looses/uses coolant this may be a sign of a faulty head gasket/head.

Very short- repeated - journeys can allow sludge to form, simply because on short journeys the engine does not reach its normal operating temperature. The engine is 'cool'.

It can also be caused by a faulty thermostat. If the thermostat is jammed in the open position it can take a long time for the engine to reach normal operating temperature. Other than changing the thermostat (maybe for one that opens at a higher temperature - a 'winter' thermostat) there's no practical way of checking it. Replacement is the easiest and cheapest option. It's not a difficult job.

It's not unknown for a thermostat to have been removed by a previous owner (for various reasons..). If you're going to check if there's a thermostat there - replace it anyway.

If you're not losing/using coolant and there's no mayonnaise on the dipstick it may well be due to repeated short journeys where the engine doesn't reach normal operating temperature - or the thermostat.

maybe a coolant thermostat that is faulty, a collapsed or perished hose..

It could also indicate cylinder head gasket/cylinder head problems.

Ten miles is about the correct distance for a car engine to reach normal operating temperature. If your temperature gauge continues to rise beyond normal ..ie. overheating .. you risk causing a lot of damage to your engine.

If you're not sure what to do or look for - get somebody to check it out for you

Do a cylinder leak down test,for bad valves on #3
or head gasket,misfires for a reason

(Cam Worn ?)

Have to get rid of any misfires

If your taking out 20% your correcting for a rich condition,maybe

Some injector issues,old,need to be sent away for cleaning & flow
testing or replaced?

Drive it for 30 miles & add short & long term & see what you get

Exhaust Converter any good ?

if the car in the process of operation, coolant temperature gauge indicatorquickly reached 100 degree, or launch in the cold car, engine coolanttemperature rises rapidly to boiling, to make up for the coolant to normal, but the engine power output decreased significantly, the mechanical system of engine system failure. The cause of the fault of cooling system are: seriousWater Leakage; cylinder pad insulation jacket and cylinder impact; the thermostat main valve off; fan belt loosening or fracture; pump shaft and impeller loose; fan clutch side. Use obd2 for automotive diagnostics , you can improve vehicle safety performance and driving more safer.

Hi,

DO NOT replace any more compoents until you have checked your vehicle's OBD computer for fault codes.

1) Run engine until it reaches operating temperature. Turn off engine.

2) Locate the 2-pin connector (BLUE I think it is) under the passenger dashboard, or behind passenger kick panel - this connector could also be mounted into an unused socket ( DO NOT use the 3-pin connector). Using a suitable jumper wire, short these 2 pins together.

3) Turn ignition to ON (but do not start)

4) The Check Engine light will flash the appropriate codes - long flash represents the 1st digit of the code, short flashes represent the 2nd digit of the code, followed by a long pause between codes. e.g. LONG, LONG, SHORT, SHORT, SHORT (long pause) = Code 23 etc.

These are the Honda codes and their meanings:

Code 0 Electronic Control Module (ECM)
Code1 Heated oxygen sensor A
Code 2 Oxygen content B
Code 3 and 5 Manifold Absolute Pressure
Code 4 Crank position sensor
Code 6 Engine coolant temperature
Code 7 Throttle position sensor
Code 8 Top dead center sensor
Code 9 No.1 cylinder position sensor
Code 10 Intake air temperature sensor
Code 11 Electronic Control Module (ECM)
Code 12 Exhaust recirculation system
Code 13 Barometric pressure sensor
Code 14 Idle air control valve or bad ECM
Code 15 Ignition output signal
Code 16 Fuel Injector
Code 17 Vehicle speed sensor
Code 19 A/T lock-up control solenoid
Code 20 Electric load detector
Code 21 V-TEC control solenoid
Code 22 V-TEC pressure solenoid
Code 23 Knock sensor
Code 30 A/T FI signal A
Code 30 A/T FI signal B
Code 41 Heated oxygen sensor heater
Code 43 Fuel supply system
Code 45 Fuel supply metering
Code 48 Heated oxygen sensor
Code 61 Front heated oxygen sensor
Code 63 Rear heated oxygen sensor
Code 65 Rear heated oxygen sensor heater
Code 67 Catalytic converter system
Code 70 Automatic transaxle
Code 71 Misfire detected cylinder 1
Code 72 Misfire detected cylinder 2
Code 73 Misfire detected cylinder 3
Code 74 Misfire detected cylinder 4
Code 75 Misfire detected cylinder 5
Code 76 Misfire detected cylinder 6
Code 80 Exhaust recirculation system
Code 86 Coolant temperature
Code 92 Evaporative emission control system


Hope this helps........

It is either your Vehicle Speed Sensor (easy to change) or your Automatic Transmission Computer (capacitors burn out on these boards, there is a fix for this too, the picture is at the bottom of this page). You need to diagnose by removing the lower right plastic kick panel on the passenger side. There you will find a blue plug. With the car OFF stick a paper clip, wire or stuff the plug with foil to make electrical connection so that the two terminals are touching. Then, turn the ignition to ON (not enough to start it though, just power it up). When you do this, count the blinks in the "D Light" or count your blinking Check Engine Light. Both are different but can refer to different things wrong with your car. A long blink is the first number and the short blinks that follow are the second number.
So imagine this as being 14 : ___ _ _ _ _

Below is a decoding chart:

The first section will be the check engine light codes, the next one is the Transmission Control Unit Codes read from the D Light;

1 O2A - Oxygen sensor #1
2 O2B - Oxygen sensor #2
3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
4 CKP - crank position sensor
5 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
6 ECT - water temperature sensor
7 TPS - throttle position sensor
8 TDC - top dead centre sensor
9 CYP - cylinder sensor
10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
12 EGR - exhaust gas recirculation lift valve
13 BARO - atmospheric pressure sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve
15 Ignition output signal
16 Fuel injectors
17 VSS - speed sensor
19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve
20 Electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
22 VTEC pressure valve
23 Knock sensor
30 Automatic transmission A signal
31 Automatic transmission B signal
36 traction control found on JDM ecu's
41 Primary oxygen sensor heater
43 Fuel supply system
45 Fuel system too rich or lean
48 LAF - lean air fuel sensor
54 CKF - crank fluctuation sensor
58 TDC sensor #2
61 Primary oxygen sensor
63 Secondary oxygen sensor
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater
71 random misfire cylinder 1
72 random misfire cylinder 2
73 random misfire cylinder 3
74 random misfire cylinder 4
80 Exhaust Gas Recirculation insufficient flow detected
86 ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature) circuit range / performance problem
90 Evaporative Emission Control System leak detected in the fuel tank area
91 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor low input
92 Evaporative Emission Control System insufficient purge flow

TCU Codes:

CODE LIST:

1-Lock-up solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted.
2-Lock-up solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted.
3-Throttle Position Sensor circuit open or shorted.
4-Vehicle Speed Sensor open or shorted - No signal from speedometer.
5-Shift Lever Position Switch circuit shorted.
6-Shift Lever Position Switch circuit open.
7-Shift Solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted.
8-Shift Solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted.
9-Counter shaft or transmission speed pulse generator open or shorted.
10-Coolant Temperature Sensor open or shorted.
11-Engine RPM (Ignition coil signal) open or shorted.
12-(No code 12 used)
13-Main shaft speed pulse generator open or shorted.
14-Linear (line pressure control) solenoid open or shorted.
15-Kick down switch circuit shorted.

It is either your Vehicle Speed Sensor (easy to change) or your Automatic Transmission Computer (capacitors burn out on these boards, there is a fix for this too, the picture is at the bottom of this page). You need to diagnose by removing the lower right plastic kick panel on the passenger side. There you will find a blue plug. With the car OFF stick a paper clip, wire or stuff the plug with foil to make electrical connection so that the two terminals are touching. Then, turn the ignition to ON (not enough to start it though, just power it up). When you do this, count the blinks in the "S Light" or count your blinking Check Engine Light. Both are different but can refer to different things wrong with your car. A long blink is the first number and the short blinks that follow are the second number.
So imagine this as being 14 : ___ _ _ _ _

Below is a decoding chart:

The first section will be the check engine light codes, the next one is the Transmission Control Unit Codes read from the S Light;

1 O2A - Oxygen sensor #1
2 O2B - Oxygen sensor #2
3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
4 CKP - crank position sensor
5 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
6 ECT - water temperature sensor
7 TPS - throttle position sensor
8 TDC - top dead centre sensor
9 CYP - cylinder sensor
10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
12 EGR - exhaust gas recirculation lift valve
13 BARO - atmospheric pressure sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve
15 Ignition output signal
16 Fuel injectors
17 VSS - speed sensor
19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve
20 Electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
22 VTEC pressure valve
23 Knock sensor
30 Automatic transmission A signal
31 Automatic transmission B signal
36 traction control found on JDM ecu's
41 Primary oxygen sensor heater
43 Fuel supply system
45 Fuel system too rich or lean
48 LAF - lean air fuel sensor
54 CKF - crank fluctuation sensor
58 TDC sensor #2
61 Primary oxygen sensor
63 Secondary oxygen sensor
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater
71 random misfire cylinder 1
72 random misfire cylinder 2
73 random misfire cylinder 3
74 random misfire cylinder 4
80 Exhaust Gas Recirculation insufficient flow detected
86 ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature) circuit range / performance problem
90 Evaporative Emission Control System leak detected in the fuel tank area
91 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor low input
92 Evaporative Emission Control System insufficient purge flow

TCU Codes:

CODE LIST:

1-Lock-up solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted.
2-Lock-up solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted.
3-Throttle Position Sensor circuit open or shorted.
4-Vehicle Speed Sensor open or shorted - No signal from speedometer.
5-Shift Lever Position Switch circuit shorted.
6-Shift Lever Position Switch circuit open.
7-Shift Solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted.
8-Shift Solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted.
9-Counter shaft or transmission speed pulse generator open or shorted.
10-Coolant Temperature Sensor open or shorted.
11-Engine RPM (Ignition coil signal) open or shorted.
12-(No code 12 used)
13-Main shaft speed pulse generator open or shorted.
14-Linear (line pressure control) solenoid open or shorted.
15-Kick down switch circuit shorted.

you have a rev limiter in neutral. Is that when this happens?

Engine RPM/Vehicle Speed Limiter The powertrain control module (PCM) will disable some or all of the fuel injectors whenever an engine rpm or vehicle overspeed condition is detected. The purpose of the engine rpm or vehicle speed limiter is to prevent damage to the powertrain. The vehicle will exhibit a rough running engine condition, and the PCM will store a Continuous Memory DTC P1270. Once the driver reduces the excessive speed, the engine will return to the normal operating mode. No repair is required. However, the technician should clear the PCM and inform the customer of the reason for the DTC.
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Fail-Safe Cooling Strategy The fail-safe cooling strategy is activated by the PCM only in the event that an overheating condition has been identified. This strategy provides engine temperature control when the cylinder head temperature exceeds certain limits. The cylinder head temperature is measured by the Cylinder Head Temperature (CHT) sensor. For additional information about the CHT sensor, refer to PCM Inputs for a description of the CHT sensor. Note: Not all vehicles equip with a CHT sensor will have the fail-safe cooling strategy.
A cooling system failure such as low coolant or coolant loss could cause an overheating condition. As a result, damage to major engine components could occur. Along with a CHT sensor, the fail-safe cooling strategy is used to prevent damage by allowing air cooling of the engine. This strategy allows the vehicle to be driven safely for a short time with some loss of performance when a overheat condition exist.
Engine temperature is controlled by varying and alternating the number of disabled fuel injectors. This allows all cylinders to cool. When the fuel injectors are disabled, their respective cylinders work as air pumps, and this air is used to cool the cylinders. The more fuel injectors that are disabled, the cooler the engine runs, but the engine has less power.
Note: A wide open throttle (WOT) delay is incorporated if the CHT temperature is exceeded during WOT operation. At WOT, the injectors will function for a limited amount of time allowing the customer to complete a passing maneuver.
Before injectors are disabled, the fail-safe cooling strategy alerts the customer to a cooling system problem by moving the instrument cluster temperature gauge to the hot zone and a PCM DTC P1285 is set. Depending on the vehicle, other indicators, such as an audible chime or warning lamp, can be used to alert the customer of fail-safe cooling. If overheating continues, the strategy begins to disable the fuel injectors, a DTC P1299 is stored in the PCM memory, and a malfunction indicator light (MIL) (either CHECK ENGINE or SERVICE ENGINE SOON), comes on. If the overheating condition continues and a critical temperature is reached, all fuel injectors are turned off and the engine is disabled.