1997 toyota Rav4 2L will not turn over or start, no clicking sound when turning the key! battery and wires are good and ignition relay switch has been replaced, lights and radio work

It could be any of several things. I would start out with some basic testing. Battery good? If yes, then ignition switch. When you turn the key, it makes a connection from the key switch to the solenoid. Check with a test light at the switch and at the solenoid (on top of the starter). If no light at the started, try running a wire from the battery to the solenoid. Does it click/turn over? If no, then maybe starter. .

It's rather like a chain. If all the links are good, then it will start. If any of the links are broken, then it won't. Sometimes a "click" can help you identify where that chain is broken.

if you have battery power on the large terminal at the starter and the same on the smaller wire when someone Is turning the key to start and the starter has a good ground then the starter is bad drawing too much amperage causing the clicking sound.

Hello! Do you hear a click when the key is turned?...If no click is heard either the ignition key, the Crank relay, the starter, or the battery are suspect...Having lights and radio does not mean the battery is capable of running a starter motor......Put a meter on the battery...should read 12.5 volts...Turn key...Does voltage drop to 8 or 9 volts? Bad battery...If all is well with battery and connections to it...Check the starter fuse # 33 in the under hood fuse/relay box...If the fuse is good that click you should hear is from the Crank Relay in that box...If all of the above is OK connect your meter to the Purple wire that is connected to the starter motor...When the key is turned 12 volts must be on that wire...If there is the starter motor is defective...So, #1...Do you hear a click when key is turned...That would point at a bad starter or weak battery...#2...If you do not hear a click bad fuse #33, bad Crank Relay, bad ignition switch...#3...If fuse is good Bad Crank Relay or Ignition switch; Crank Relay is a low cost item ($10)...Replace Relay...Stop there and send a comment as to results...Guru...saailer

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

Hi, there are a few things it could be. Safety interlock, starter relay, ignition switch, or starter solenoid. If you cannot hear the start relay click, the problem is probably with the interlock connection on the transmission range sensor. First check the 10 amp starter relay fuse (#7 in the cabin) . If the fuse is good, you can bypass the interlock by pulling the connector off the transmission range switch and connecting the terminals of the tan and brown wires using a paper clip. If this allows the car to start, replace the range switch. If not, the problem may be with the ignition switch. To check the ignition switch, use a 12 volt test light or voltmeter to check voltage on the brown wire of the connector at the transmission range switch when the key is turned to start. If that brown wire is not hot with the key turned fully, the switch or the fuse is bad. If there is power all the way thru to the relay but the relay does not click, swap out the relay. You can borrow another relay to check this out. The A/C clutch relay is a good one to borrow--it's right next to the starter relay in the relay box by the battery.

If you can hear the start relay click when you turn the key, the problem is probably the starter solenoid.
If you need instructions for replacing parts or if you have any questions, please let me know.

try the starter solenoid or the starter relay....be sure all the starter/ignition fuses are good

sounds like the ignition switch contacts have packed up in the ignition switch ,fit a push button type switch so its by passed the ignition switch ,pick up a 12v supply from ignition switch ignition on side ,then to switch then to starter solonoid ,although you can wire it through a relay if you want to be professional

Check body to motor ground wire and battery to motor and body ground.

When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

has it got an immobiliser / if so there is a fault there. If not an ignition switch itself.

First, establish that there is 12v at the battery (with a volt meter) then remove terminal ends and clean contact surfaces. Check that there is 12v at the main starter terminal and 12v at the starter trigger wire with the key turned to the start positon. If not, check starter relay, neutral safety switch and ignition switch. Make sure battery ground wire on engine is also clean and secure.