So it's a no crank condition? Do dash lights, gauges, and everything else work when the car won't crank over? If so, buy a cheap $5.00 testlight, and when the car won't crank, pull the small black wire off the starter solenoid. While someone holds the key in start (cranking) position and clutch pedal depressed, see if the black wire has power as it should. (Ground the testlight and just touch the wire's end terminal. If powered, the testlight will light up.) If power there, then the starter solenoid is failing. Toyota starters are very good units, but the solenoid's internal contacts get old and pitted.
If no power at the black wire, then the start circuit from ignition switch to clutch safety switch (on the clutch pedal) to starter relay to starter solenoid will have to be diagnosed. To double-check: take a single battery jumper cable and put it on the positive battery post connection. Put the other end of the jumper cable on the solenoid terminal where black wire was removed. Key can be off. Make sure car is in neutral, brake set. If starter now operates, solenoid is O.K., and it is a problem in the start circuit, -ignition switch, neutral start switch, or in the wiring.
Now find a grounding place for testlight under the dash. When car won't crank, check for power coming out of ignition switch on the black wire with white stripe. This is the start wire for the starter solenoid. Key must be in crank position. Wire shoud be powered-ignition switch is working. If no power, switch is failing. You can do the same for the clutch start switch-it's a simple switch, that when clutch is depressed switch is closed and passes power on from ignition switch to the starter relay (thus allowing power to the starter solenoid). Black wire, red stripe-this is wire from clutch switch to starter relay. When key is in crank, clutch depressed, this wire should be hot.
With me so far? Still haven't found a problem, or any loose connections? Next and last is the starter relay. It is located under dash, close to gas pedal, but under the center console, just forward and left of gear shifter. It can be tested and the wiring diagnosed there, but relays are cheap, so just swap in another and see if that helps.
If you have tried everything, and still no help, you could try a new wire from the relay to the starter solenoid. This is that black wire we started with. Older toyotas sometimes have a problem with degraded wiring not passing enough current to operate the starter
SOURCE: 1998 problem starting?
Coming from a Toyota tech, it sounds like the starter contacts are worn and time for a starter rebuild. parts are only available from toyota and and not expensive, and labour should be 1.5 hours.
SOURCE: keeps blowing 15a efi fuse 1991 toyota pickup 2.2 re
there's a short somewhere causing that amperage to go up
SOURCE: FUSE REPLACEMENT FOR 12 VOLT POWER ADAPTOR-SIENNA CE MODEL
it will be labled cigarette lighter it should be red in color and be a 10 amp fuse. there is a fuse block on the drivers sider under the dash near the emergency brake / hood release. please rate this...thanks
SOURCE: radio, cigarette lighter, clock are not working on my 98 corolla
Please replace all your fuses. Some of the fuses are bad. This should fix it for you. Cheers.
SOURCE: where's fuse box & fuse for power windows Toyota Corolla 98 LE?
Fuses can be tricky. Check them all to be sure.
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If indeed, it is a problem at the underhood fuse box where you push fuses around (not so likely, but anything is possible, right?), concentrate on the 50 amp AM1 fuse and the 15 amp AM2 fuse. Both these fuses supply current to the ignition switch. If the terminals or wiring underneath the box going to these fuses are corroded, loose, dirty, or otherwise degraded you can have a no start condition. Good luck.
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