20 Most Recent 2001 Ford Expedition Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity and spelling of 'Expedition'. Question moved from Misc to model category. Yes, depending if they are upstream or downstream, they can be hard to reach and really need to be up on a lift at a garage. Videos that might help, but it is a fast job for a pro tech and you need a special wrench. https://www.google.com/search?q=2001+Ford+Expedition.+How+to+change+the+o2+sensor ..

If your check engine light is not on, it could be your fuel filter. I would check this first. The fuel filter is easy to change and is cheap. Usually only costing a few bucks. It is located shortly after the fuel tank on the fuel line running the length of the steel frame.

I WOULD NOT LET FUEL RUN OUT,YOU WILL DAMAGE FUEL PUMP. IF LOW FUEL LIGHT COME ON YOU MIGHT MAKE IT FEW MORE MILES.

Likely you have a blown "fusible link". These are located either near the battery + or the starter and can be difficult to locate.

Just need a set of combinations wrenches and/or small sockets. Battery is generally 1/2" I almost always use combination wrenches for this job.

FOR OURS WE PROGRAM OUR RADIO ON 88.7FM AND WE GET THE AUDIO OF THE VHS AND DVD THAT WAY.

This code has to with the TCC - Torque converter clutch P1744 TCC TCC The PCM picked up an excessive amount of TCC slippage during normal vehicle operation. TCC slippage/erratic or no torque converter clutch operation. Refer to Diagnosis By Symptom in this section. You'll need to pull the transmission out an replace the torque converter ! Your better off taking to transmission shop an having a proper diagnosis done !

i just had the same problem with my f 150 ( 1999), my wipers, washer fluid pump, dome light, door chime stopped, I went thur the manuals, Checked appropated fuses, even changed wiper motor, (nothing worked) out of much internet checking, talking to mechanics, I got frustrated, I started pulling all the fuses under the dash,, I pulled # 15 ,a 5 amp fuse, which has nothing to do with the wipers eletronics, it was a good fuse, when i put it back in, everything came back and working fine. nearest i can figure it was either loose or a dirty contact.

#15 fuse (5 amps) on my box is for : stop lamp switch,( speed control,brake shift interlock,ABS, pcm module inputs.gem module,RABS test connector)
this was just blind luck, maybe it will help you.

Light weight edition

there should be fuses near your amp and near the battery

It is usually alternator trouble, but there are some rare cases where battery and alternator are okay but there is a loose or corroded joint in the wiring harness between the battery and the area where the battery light gets its voltage signal; this is usually downstream of a large bulkhead multipoint plug near the fusible links etc. The resistance from a bad connection at this point causes a loss of voltage due to the current flowing to the fuel injection pump, a/c, lights etc. It gets worse and when bad enough it will stall you. Get it identified by a competent auto electric shop before it strands you.

THE ONLY WAY TO FIND AND TRY AND FIX PROBLEM THAT IS YOU'LL HAVE TO REMOVE THE DOOR PANELS THAT ARE MAKING THE GRINDING SOUND, AFTER YOU REMOVE THE PANEL TRY TO OPEN THE WINDOW WITH THE REMOTE AND THIS TIME YOU'LL SEE WHATS MAKING THE GRINDING SOUND...MY GUESS IS THAT THE GLASS COULD BE OF THE TRACK. AND WHEN YOU USE THE REMOTE THE FORCE OF MOTOR AND GLASS CAUSES THE GRINDING SOUND.. GOOD LUCK.

Try the switch on the brake pedal bracket. When this switch gets bumped out of position by the drivers feet it causes difficulties. Check your under-dash fuse panel. Seen that many are bumped and window control relays are half hanging out of fuse panel.

try this website reliable-store.com they help you with all this stuff, ask the girl at the bottom for help

Throttle position sensor or throttle body is very dirty from cheap gas clean the throttle body with fuel injection cleaner and put it in the gas tank every week for a month use Berrimans fuel system cleaner start with 2 cans and a high quality premium gas Exxon shell bp mobile and then go to 1 can every tank full then after a month go to 1 can a month but stay on the 93 octane the higher the octane rating the more stable and slower the fuel burns and the higher quality gas has detergents in it to help keep it clean also change the gas filter again after 2 months because the Berriman cleaner will clear up the whole emissions system and this is recirculated back to the vacuum canister then back into the tank for it to be reburned again so the filter will catch any varnish sludge micron particles coming through now if you've done all of this and you've got the problem solved great if not please post back to me and I'll go further with you until it's solved you must understand that I'm not there to check myself so I don't have a good vision of what is wrong so Im trying to rule out some of the possibilities of what is wrong and your truck will improve its mpgs from the system cleaner and I think that the throttle position sensor has a worn-out contact spot in the idle position that is always used at the stopped for a light or stop sign position also check vacuum lines for cracks and 1 more thing take out each spark plug and check the gap it could be to far and at idle the firing spark is missing but at higher speeds it can compensate for it from a more rapid firing and check the boots by squeezing them and looking for cracks or really soft ones are letting the +spark escape to - ground and look for any moisture on them so you have a process of eliminating a few things and I hope the problem is fixed for you and if not get back to me as mentioned above and we'll get there so you know I'm a taxi mechanic in nyc.with 50 years experience in all phases of automotive systems and a ford specialist that dealer chief mechanics come to me when computers can't find the problems with the vehicle also after we solve your problems I can teach you and others who come across this post other things to do for optimum performance of your truck I have 4.6 & 5.4 motors with 300,000 + and some in 400,000 miles range that are still fast when we take them out of service so good luck and write down everything you do so we can rule out possible causes and have fun learning about the machine your driving yes machine it's gas driven but controlled by electrical voltage monitoring sensors that your computer sends commands to operate it all the best stephen

google it, for diagram