20 Most Recent 1993 Toyota Pickup - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Usally that means you have either blown head gasket, a cracked block, or a bad intake manifold gasket.

Same as before

New 150 to 170 no more than 10% between highest and lowest. Old min of 105 with no more than 10% between highest and lowest If this helps please rate it thanks

Your o2 sensor heater is bad replace o2 sensor. If this helps please rate it thanks

They are sometimes on the underside of the hood. If not you can try a chain auto parts store like Advanced Auto Parts, O'reilly or Autozone. They have vehicle specific manuals for sale and sometimes for loan. Also check the library or book store for a manual.

If you tell me which engine you have, I can also provide the code list.
1989-95 MODELS

1. Make sure the battery voltage is at least 11 volts.
2. Make sure the throttle valve is fully closed.
3. Place the gear shift lever in Neutral. Turn all accessories off.
4. The engine should be at normal operating temperature.
5. Using a jumper wire, connect terminals TE1 and E1 of the Data Link Connector 1 (DLC1).
6. Turn the ignition switch ON , but do not start the engine. Read the diagnostic code by the counting the number of flashes of the malfunction indicator lamp.
7. Codes will flash in numerical order. If no faults are stored, the lamp flashes continuously every 1 / 2 second. This is sometimes called the Normal or System Clear signal.
8. After the diagnosis check, turn the ignition OFF and remove the jumper wire.
9. Compare the codes found to the applicable diagnostic code chart. If necessary, refer to the individual component tests in this section. If the component tests are OK, test the wire harness and connectors for shorts, opens and poor connections.

LOOSE BATTERY TERMINALS CAN CAUSE THIS OR A LOOSE FUSE OR FUSE BOX.
TRY IT.. PLS VOTE!!

This issue is most likely related to the pick up assembly inside the distributor. A no reference signal to the ECM is most likely and the most common cause, unrelated to your headlight issue.

Hello, do you have brake in the front or in the back or both? Have you bled the air out of the braking system? You need to think this through instead of RR--remove and replace. The hydraulic brake are the most reliable system that the brake shoes or pads could be down to the metal and it would still stop the vehicle. You lose a brake line or brakes on one wheel, and it will still stop the vehicle with two wheel cylinder or pads working. The brake system is diagonal that is; left front/right rear and right front/left rear. Therefore, if the vehicle loses any one braking system the other will work.


Now, on your Toyota Truck there is load compensator valve hook to the frame with the two rear wheel line going into this valve. The a lever the attached to the rear differential. The way it suppose to work is when a load in placed in the bed of the truck. The load dynamic will position the differential by the load pushing down on the bed. This causes the load lever arm to change position and slightly closing the valve; in turn, limits the brake pressure on the rear wheels.



I don't know why Toyota Motors installed this load compensator valve. It more trouble than what it worth. I have removed these load valves, and took it apart, and plug the valve piston hole with a brass plug. This lets the brake pressure flow evenly through out the braking system.



Remember, you need to bleed the braking system of air and I mean all the air bubbles for the braking system could operate appropriately to manufacture specification. GB...stewbison

If both quit simulataneously. I would suspect the "switching" electrical connection switch; that activates the lights.

go to a toyota dealer and buy a new lock cylinder with new keys. look on youtube for a video on how to replace a toyota lock cylinder

1400$ is a total insult but you're not alone, my god dealers and mostly anyone now like to charge an arm and a leg for automotive A/C work!! If your evaporator fitting broke off that's where all your R134a(freon) leaked out and the clutch won't kick in unless there is enough freon pressure in the system (through the low pressure switch). I know as a mechanic that it is a labour intensive job to change the evaporator in most vehicles but not 1400$ worth of it. It's maybe 200-300$ worth of parts and shop supplies to them plus 3 hours of labour for one mechanic... No wonder auto manufacturers are going bankrupt :S Try to find a good independant shop that does a lot of A/C work and that you trust/know, they should be able to fix you up for a lot less... There is one thing though, a lot of times A/C work can be tricky, lines are mostly aluminum and do tend to seize together and have to be cut apart, that is why an accurate estimate is hard to get, but trust me 1400$ is the price of a brand new a/c system in your truck from end to end

I purchased a Haynes Repair Manual for that vehicle and the 94 version that I have from Auto Zone. Advance Auto and Pep Boys also carry both Haynes and Chilton's Manuals on that vehicle.

there is a switch for the emergency brake towards the bottom of the emergency brake handle under the dash...........i hope this will help and if you need more info let me know and also if the switch is not the problem let me know what you have checked........i believe that you will find that the switch is the problem.......if you could let me and fixya know if i was any help to you and a thumbs up........thanks and good luck.......

you turn it counter clockwise or to the left....