1995 Jaguar XJ6 - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Ask that person what a Hard Reset is & let us knowI have been at this 50 years, at the end of this month& never heard of it

Does check engine light or wrench light come on? If yes, get free computer scan from Autozone or other parts store that offers free scan. Sounds like a sensor is failing

can you fold down the back of the seat and pull the release handle? you could jack it up and power it up at the starter

look for a cap with a picture of a steering wheel

Difficult to say here as with a lot of modern engines they have all these covers over the engine and this i think causes them to run too hot around the head area where the coil packs are and as they are only copper windings i think this build up of heat causes them to fail ,unlike my XJ6 where it has a external coil with a dist cap .Also make sure the plug gap is correct 25th as some of these high frequency coils are specified with a wider gap which means the coil is working overtime to jump the gap ,i like to use bosch plugs with the multiple 3 connection firing electrodes as they last a long time and can be re.gapped and yes i know some garages throw their hands up and say replace but i feel this is only for the profit margin on renewing all the time .If the plug gap becomes too wide then this is causing the coil to burn out ,pluga should be re-gapped every 10000miles or am i just a old time has been who was taught different on cars with rod brakes and side valve engines

Sound like a uncharging battery (alternator light) or some mis-adjust belt around water pump (temp hot) and alternator pulley, is rare the two problems together are related, but not impossible. CHeck belt adjust and electrical circuits.Hope this helps.

USE BELT DRESSING ON BELTS AND PULLIES OR CHECK IF BELTS ARE TOO TIGHT. ALSO COULD BE ONE OF THE PULLIES BEARINGS ARE OUT

could be your temperature sensor or a vacuum leak somewhere.

Look for an IAC sensor (motor) Idle Air Control.
Usually located on side & front of throttle body. Not 100% sure which type you'll have but if you have pintle type (pointed end) Remove it, spray it well with throttle body cleaner as well as port it came from, and retry. If it cures it temporarily & starts to do it again, replace it.

Need a bit more info please, is it the fans under the dash for the heater, or the cooling fans for the radiator under the bonnet that won't stop running ?regardsTim

Hi Jeffrey,Most likely to be the lighting control logic board, inside the pod on the left of the steering wheel.The board lives in that black housing through which the headlight switch is also mounted and has the fog light switches on the board also so that they poke out of the top when the board it in place.To access the board take out the one Phillips screw directly underneath that left side pod and the bottom panel comes off, the board then un-clips (2 spring plastic clips at the far end near the dash clocks, one near to you, ease them back and you will feel the board come loose ) , and drops out, pull off the light switch knob and undo the nut around the switch to allow you to gently ease the switch shaft back through it's hole and remove it with the board, unplug and replace the complete board unit and the main light switch which is attached to this board by its wires, put the switch back in and nut back on that first, then ease the board back into its housing until the clips click, replace the bottom pod cover with the screw and you are done, takes about 15 minutes tops.Hope this helpsany further questions post them here and I will see themregardsTim.Source, 20 years in business repairing nothing but Jaguars.

Hi Michael,You need a pair of good coil spring compressors about 10 inches long that are reasonably slimline and robust enough to hold the power of the spring, trolley jack, axle stands, sockets and spanners to fit the nuts and bolts and half a dozen tie wraps, 4 inches of longer.Jack up and support the rear of the car (if you have access to a wheels free ramp so much the better) remove both rear wheels.Using the compressors compress the spring until you can squash it down to about 2/3rdsof its length, it will then rotate and move freely, once that is the case you have compressed it enough..Then, and only then, undo the bottom shocker bolt, the one through the lower swing arm and remove the bolt.Using a 1/2 inch 13mm socket and whatever extensions and wobble drives you need to achieve it, remove the 4 nuts/ (some have 4 bolts ) from the top shocker plate (directly at the top of the shocker ) releasing it from it's mounting point, once these 4 are out this will allow you to maneuver the whole assembly, spring shocker and top plate, out through the gap between the hub and the wheel arch, most can be got out without removing anything else, but occasionally I have had to remove the brake caliper to make enough room, and only once I had to take out the lower hub bolt (if you have to do this be sure to dot punch 2 marks on the disc around the head of the bolt which has graduations marked on it for rear wheel alignment, and on the hub directly adjacent to the mark you made of the head of the bolt, when reassembling you simply line up the 2 dots and your rear wheel will be back where it was before you took the bolt out.Once you have the shocker and spring assembly out, slide the shocker out and replace it by removing the top nut through the top plate.once done, use tie wraps to fasten the top plate to the top of the spring (makes handling it a bit easier, and reverse the removal procedure.Most important thins when reassembling to remember, DO NOT remove the spring compressors until you have reassembled the top plate back in its mounting and re fitted the bottom shocker bolt.Why Jaguar decided to adopt this stupid way to fit a rear spring is beyond me ! Probably to stop people from being able to change their own parts !!The XJ40's were self contained and Much easier to remove as a whole unit ! Source, self after 20 years of working on nothing but Jaguars.best regardsTim

It sounds like a change over valve is faulty. U have 2 check over valves 1 on each side of rear wheel wells. Also a change over valve that switches 1 tank to other. I recomend replacing all 3 valves for peace of mind,because when 1 goes the others follow. Hope this is helpful!

Thats the low coolant light you have circled check the coolant level. D

use Valvoline motor oil 20W-50

Of course,MIDAS MUFFLER comes to mind first. They warranty their work and will do it right. don-ohio (:^)

I had the same problem. Had to replace the catalytic convertor. The JAG one is very expensive, but my local machanic 'built' one and it passes emissions tests and runs ok now.

I take it your vehicle is fuel injected, if so you might need to run a diagnostic on your car to make sure there are no fault codes registering that might prevent the vehicle from starting.

i would say the car is safe to drive.IF the pressure sensor was working correctly, and your engine was a complete dog, then you would expect there to be some loss of oil pressure, but not 0 to 4bar in a blip of the throttle.given that the oil pressure sensor is a common fault (and it controlls the oil pressure light, it is not a seperate switch), i would say the sensor has a 'dead' spot on it, and a blip of the throttle just sees it outside the dead zone of its reading, and pings back to 4bar (its natural to get a slight rise in oil pressure when higher revs are acheived). 4bar is the right value, its what mine sits at. maybe a tiny bit under (3.95) when the engine is very hot/in traffic the oil pressure is reading just over 4 at all times, dosent go up or when accelerate or down at idle is this normal, used to mercedes W124 where it can register .3 up on idle but when accelerate it should goto max, ie 3 bar Whats the mileage on the car. Sounds like It certainly is suffering from low oil pressure at tickover, but loads of cars do and continue running for thousands of miles. blue/white smoke on start up and that points to valve seals and, yes, the head would have to come off to replace them, but it's normally just blue smoke. White smoke points more to head gasket, but that would be replaced anyway when doing the valves.Bet the engine sounds smooth as silk too
Oil pressure is determined by the rate at which oil flows through the internal combustion engine of a car. Low oil pressure is a real danger for engines, as it indicates that the bearings in an engine have worn, allowing the oil to flow more easily and at a lower pressure. However, high oil pressure is generally not a concern for motorists. Oil pressure fluctuates with the heat of a machine, and though high oil pressure can indicate a serious problem, it generally means the engine is in an adjustment period.Oil Pressure at Idle For many cars, oil pressure is much higher upon start-up or while idling. The reason for this has to do with the temperature of the engine. When an engine has been sitting turned off, it cools down, as does the oil that flows through the machine. Upon start-up, the engine temperature begins to rise. As it rises, so to must the oil heat up to find a level pressure to flow through the machine. Cooled oil is thicker, causing it to flow more slowly and at a higher pressure through the machine, until it reaches its optimal operating temperature.Pressure Relief Valve Recurrent high oil pressure, even after the machine has been running for a while, can indicate a problem with the pressure relief valve. The pressure relief valve is responsible for regulating oil pressure throughout the internal combustion engine. It is a safety device intended to keep vessels or piping from experiencing extreme pressure. When this device is malfunctioning, it will cause high oil pressure in an automobile.Types of Oil The type of oil put into an engine can also account for extremes in oil pressure. Low-weight or thin oils will operate with low oil pressure, as they will pass through the machine quite easily. Thicker oil will pass through the machine at higher oil pressure readings. Generally, after an oil change, when fresh oil is introduced into the machine, oil pressure will increase. This, however, is only a sign that the oil that formerly operated your car was too thin for optimal performance.

My experience says "Yes" to adding the factory cruise control set up...you might use your friend's Jag as a great comparison to the needed parts and installation...If you have difficulty locating the factory parts...try a salvage dealer on line...Your model can also be fitted to aftermarket cruise control. Sometimes the aftermarket cruise is less costly, and can be installed by Ziebart or other vendors. You might compare the cost, and the final look. Hope this helps.