1997 Honda Accord - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

If the battery is completely dead, you'll need to slow charge it for a few hours before trying to use a jumper battery. And you could have something shorted to ground in the car that drained the battery in the first place. Try disconnecting the battery cables and using a battery charger to bring the battery back to life first.

sure it is, all cars , in call counties are diffr. wired different. for vast reasons, (laws top list) only way to find this out is to get the FSM and look. our 2 big websites here in the uSA cover ours only. no UK , no JDM, no nutn else. not only that ,we have a SAE, radio color code standard here. started about (IIRC) 1995? so ours can be same, car to car but no counrty to country. your question is the hardest question of all, nobody has 2 FSM for 2 countries, on one year car at same time. who would that be? seems you soon, LOL so will be all lighting, brakes and smog. all differ. and in many cases the car is fitted out with different radios in different assembly plants or dealer installed. huge variances here...

check the oil level and put it on the full mark. If you enjoy turning corners at speed you may have to consider a surge bulk head in the sump to keep the oil around the pump pick up

did you try to jumper cable start car? that is a NO CRANK issue, no car starts (cept mine, its an M.T) with out the starter motor working, (mine can be push started or hill started) Jumpers fix issue?, so bad/dead /discharged battery. so???? so is the IMMO light showing IMMO blocking, , you ever read the operators guide and see IMMO rules> lamp on, lamp off, lamp flashing... all have meanings. the IMMO cuts fuel, not the starter, so its not IMMO. Its a bad starter system. (it is a system of parts) no crank has many causes. the tests are easy with a voltmeter. a $20 volt meter can save you the cost of a $140 battery. It can be a free fix. (clean the battery lugs yet>?) ask how. to start the engines (assume engine is ok and EFI ok, and spark ok) the start system can fail like this. 1: A dead battery ,bad bat., or only discharged, a voltmeter solves this riddle. (ask how) if only discharged, then charge it. and find cause of discharge ,1st or it will repeat. the order here, counts. 2: bad battery to starter cables. 3: bad starter solenoid, or starter. we hot wire IT.(ask) (fails? , bad starter,assumes battery side is good,first) hot wire fails. I hit the starter casing with a hammer bam, it now works. 4: starter cranks hot wired. it's good. (test passes so i then find the bad KEY line. cause,,, we now have problem cut in half. 5: the KEY line is that wire that runs from KEY (ST) to the starter , small wire. on an A/.T car, (auto/trans) car, the key line passes thru the PRNDL switch on tranny. so wiggle the gear shift. cranks now>? try cranking in Neutral. some cars allow this, and the Neutral side of the switch will like new, and car cranks. that was the long answer. here is the short. Take it in. call the auto club. guess, i guess,? 1: left head lights on. 2: battery lugs never cleaned. 3: battery died.

Has to be other nuts or fasteners. Check on the firewall side, too, behind the engine. There could be nuts or fasteners on that side. You do have the heater hoses already removed? I think you just missed all the nuts holding the heater case. Good job getting that far, just keep looking, pretty sure there would be more than just two nuts, even one more, but check on the firewall side.

Make sure everything including the radio is off and doors closed. Disconnect the negative battery cable and hook up a non-powered test light from the - battery terminal to the disconnected - battery cable end. If it lights, you have a voltage draw. (The trunk light could be the culprit).

A/T or M/T , auto or stick

do you want a guess? Fuses. or the HL relay is bad or the combo HL switch. (headlights) if this is a hands on, DIY question? and a DMM is in hand (meter) then see alldata.com or for free here. http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/ low beams dead. are the parking lamps all working, tail, and side lights and all interior dimming park lamps, with HL switch set to park position?

Play in the steering wheel is likely from worn tie rod ends. Have your inner and outer tie rods checked. The outer tie rods are connected to the rod ends coming out of the rack on each side, and are connected to the wheels. The inner tie rods are not visible-but are on the rods under the protective boots on each end of the rack and pinion assembly. You may need a new rack assembly, but first check if you just need new tie rods.

you lost the operators guide? posted 100 times now..... http://justgivemethedamnmanual.com/honda/honda-accord-owners-manuals/

open glove box, extract users guide, see page on EPS.Electric Power Steeringit says, go to the dealer for service.or if really handy, read the FSM. on topic (honda sells the book)or go to alldata.com and read the EPS pages.

Possible Low Fuel Pressure I Would Test The IAC (Idle Air Control Valve) First

skill lots of skillask any mechanic.He will try to find the release cable and then work it manually even cutting up the cable sheath and then pulling the wire in side very hard with vise grips. Id not do any of this ,with out a new cable in hand. or its all wasted effort. and a car you cant drive.

Put the wires safe from grounded chasis.Cech the main fuse (s) usualy under the hood.Try to start.Ceck after the function of the lights/turn signals.Rare:Back wheel may cross the trunk release,fuel pump wiring,stop lights etc.

94 -97 honda accord

Make sure the trans cooler is getting a good air flow. and a trans flush is always good, and most oil change shops do it for around $89+

ARE YOU LOW ON OIL!? THE LOCATION IS NEAR THE DISTRIBUTOR...SHOULD BE BELOW ITGOOD LUCK

It is located Above oil filter on back of engine. You have checked your oil level correct? Sorry just had to ask you would be surprised ..

if this is a squeeking or screeching sound,it would be brakes need replacing or a stone has flicked into the brake area.

No, your Honda does not have "torsion bars". You have a coil springs to absorb bumps and give the suspension compliance. A torsion bar was used on many Chrysler products and older vehicles. You may be confusing "torsion" bars with "sway" bars. A sway bar links suspension from side to side to keep the vehicle "flatter" in corners as an aid to handling.