20 Most Recent 1997 Honda Accord - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Could be the ignition coil or ignition module. Also check the ignition fuse.

Turn on the wipers and listen you should hear the motor running if the Linkage broke, and since the wipers were out of range hitting off the glass that does sound like the linkage.

Check the belts for slippage and wear. If the tension is not correct, the belts will slip and create a "squealing" noise...moreso at higher rpms or on acceleration as you mentioned....That is the most common cause for a "squeel". I would check that first.
Good luck...i hope this helps fixya up.

is the fan comes on?if so check the compression or perform a cylinder leak down test or combustion leak test for head gasket failure.

you may need to check compression test among other things but start there.

thats a code for oxygen sensor..check this site out http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/honda/2.2L-2.3L/p0135-oxygen-sensor-test-1

Use jumper wire to run juice direct from battery.

Could be many reasons. Are they locked up all the time or when braking hard or when you just touch the brakes? Bad caliper, rotor, abs? Where are you located? Is the car parked outside in Boston? Could have water in brake fluid and it is frozen. Parking brakes applied?

you probably have a leak in your heater core. the white smoke is steam from the hot antifreeze. alhough I am not a mechanic, this a fairly straight foward diagnosis. you need a mechanic soon, before your engine overheats & destroys itself. I hope this is not too late!

I do not own a '97 Accord, but from the diagrams I've looked at, my '86 Accord 2-door is similar in many ways including how the door is attached and, therefore, removed. 4 bolts hold the door to the 2 hinges and a pin is removed from the door checker/stopper, the device that prevents the door from opening too wide.

Sounds like your tansmission is in limp mode to protect itself. you'll probably need to identify and correct the speed sensor problem (at the wheels or at the transmission sensor) before you'll be able to get it out of limp mode.

cam why not say what job.? or spark, see? we just cant guess.that. no matter, its on alldata.com if in usa, that not stated either, so fail 2 times, i do.

The question is vague, but if you're referring to what torque to use on the connecting rod cap bolts, depending on the engine I found either 23 ft-lbs or 30 ft-lbs. I've had a few Hondas but not a '97, so I looked this up just now. A site like torkspec.com is useful or your local Honda service dept. should definitely have the numbers for you.

you fried has done a lot wrong and has upset the electronc balance necessary to run the ECM program properly. It is no longer a matter of cutting in anywhere for power. Pull it out and repair any wires cut or spliced then take it to an authorised radio installer shop and have it fitted proprly. with todays electronic controlled cars ,the best advice is to have the retailer fit the units for you as they have the experience and the tech knowledge to do the job

You will need to remove the inner door panel and find out what failed/broke and fix that problem..

The only side with the holes for the fan shroud bolts - the side facing the engine.

They both have crank sensors. crank sensor is the same as RPM sensor. Both cars need rpm signal. You could compare the inputs and match differences...but BYPASSING or skipping isnt ever a good idea. The 97 if I recall required crank and tdc. the 93 simply had a distributor reluctor generating both,. WHat I recommend is you dont mix and match engines that arent compatible or change the incompatible pieces. Life is much easier both at 1st start and in the future when it needs repair. However, you can get the crank/rpm signal from the 93 distributor, move it to the same wires ast he 97 lists, and it MAY fire. Youll still have to deal with cam and TDC, and all sorts of other incompatioble parts.. the 93 5 speed ECM should still work fine, so its a 5 speed? the engine doesnt care. Was t just not cranking because of the clutch switch input you now didnt have? You could jumper those pins (blue n black?) and bypass that. At least then all your ECM inputs are correct and in the right pins. That seems alot easier than mixing and matching year parts.

First, what is exactly happening? as there is no fuse for Gear shifter. Is the car not going out of park? If so, then check the Brake switch. Brake has to be depressed which operates the brake switch sending signal to the gear shifter to unlock so it can be shifted. If Brake switch is okay then only a mechanical obstruction is preventing the shifter operation. For this you will have to take of the cover on the gear shifter to see what is fouling. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/uttamjeet_2f3adc18600f8ede