20 Most Recent 2004 Audi TT - Page 4 Questions & Answers

if you are driving in the open and you have your hood down it would be unlikely for fumes to come out and stay in the car. if your hood is up check your exhaust pipes

The flasher is integrated into the emergency flasher switch.

bad exhaust you might need to replace the whole system you most likely have an exhaust leak somwhere by the doors or where air can even just slightly pass through take it to a shop and have them inspect it best answer i can give you

WWW.AUDIWORLD.COM

Hi

The radio is in safe mode and requires the security code to reactivate it. First check through your service documentation for a credit card sized card that Audi print the code on.

If this is missing the only other way to retrieve the code is

1) Remove the stereo from the dash and retrieve the serial number stamped on the back of the stereo.

2) Contact your Audi dealer with both the serial number and the chassis (VIN no) of your car. You will find the VIN no on your registration document.

3) If you do it this way and have retrieved both of these numbers yourself your Audi dealer will run the numbers and give you the code free of charge.

Hint: Some dealers will attempt to charge for this service but they are not authorized to so. On the original safe code card from Audi it specifically states that if you lose the code your Audi dealer will supply this free of charge. Please ensure to quote this information to the dealer if they attempt to make any service charge.

Hope this helps. Please do rate my answer and thanks for using FixYa.

How many miles are on the tranny? Any modifications? Tiptronics are NOT overbuilt like other parts of the car. They do fail. Usually, however, you will get a stored code or all the gear indicators on the dash come on at the same time. When that happens, start looking for a new/used tranny.

I would suspect a faulty brake switch which is activated by the pedal, inspect to see if it has dislodged from its correct position, in the mean time, instead of toying with the battery, you can simply unplug the switch or remove the fuse untill it is fixed. Good luck

The adjustment screws/nuts should be located either on the top of the headlamp assembly, behind the headlamp assembly, or near the frame rail by the radiator support.

You will have vertical adjustment screws for each independent beam (separate highs and separate lows, but will be same screw if highs and lows are the same bulb). You may also have additional horizontal adjustment screws as well

Park your car on a level ground 30 feet from a wall and measure the height from the ground to the bulb and mark on a wall (do this for highs beams and low beams if the bulbs are separate, if highs and lows are the same bulb, only do it for the lows)

For Low Beams: If the headlights read VOR, then aim the brightest part or cutoff part just below the mark on the wall. If it says VOL or nothing, aim them 2 inches below the mark on the wall.

For High Beams (if separate from low beams): Aim the headlight directly at the line you marked on the wall.

You may have to do some testing...if it is coming from the belts, start disconnecting them, don't drive the car since you will loose the power steering, but see if the noise still exists. Then if it does, is it coming from around the timing belt area, which brings me to my next question, has the timing belt been changed? Even if it isn't the area of noise; it needs to be done, and the water pump has to be replaced at the same time...location of the grinding noise is important in order to diagnose properly.

bolts on from the inside will have to remove the door panel unless you have a smaller piece of panel up by the mirror that can be removed on its own. then look for the three screws or nuts that hold the mirror head on remove them and then the mirror be sure to unplug mirror plug in should be attached to the door just below mirror

Hi, first i would check the fluid level if it is not a sealed trans. if the fluid level is ok, it may be that the TCM(transmission Control module is malfunctioning. this module controls the actual shift points. the TCM sends the shift signal to the shift solenoids that are located inside the transmission pan. these shift solenoids preform the engagements of the gears on command, which is initiated by this module i speak of. this module may be damaged,in return, causing this confusion in the shifting patterns you are experiencing.

what you have to do in this situation you have to check that there is enough pressure in your oil system, your oil pump might be bad it can also be a bad lifter

I am not familiar with the Audi 2004 TT, but offer the following suggestion:-
If the vehicle has a gearbox separate from the engine, try using a lighter grade of gearbox oil -from my experience with Alfa's, Valvoline Transgear 75W/85 works well in slow synchro gearboxes.

(PS... Learn to double shuffle when changing back to second - then your syncro will last forever).

Release bearing problem.Change the clutch Assembly

Well, if the low-oil-pressure warning light is on, and the engine is knocking, and there is plenty oil in the crankcase, then the oil pump must not be circulating oil thru the engine. So, I agree -- I think your oil pump is bad.

Sounds like you have a universal failure of your instrument panel circuits. The Speedo and odometers run off a cable that goes down into your tranny, not electrical.

Pull each fuse out one at a time, test each for continuity, clean the blades with an eraser and reseat, then go to the next one. Tighten all the ground cables you can find, starting from inside, then the firewall, engine block, battery, etc. This should fix it unless you have an open in the instrument circuit. A short will blow the fuse involved so that will be obvious. Just replace the blown fuse with the SAME VALUE- DO NOT USE A HIGHER AMP FUSE! If you have a blown fuse, hopefully you'll be lucky and it won't blow again.

I say check each fuse because sometimes instrument circuits are shared with others and not obvious which fuse is the one. And if one fuse is not making good contact, then others are likely to be on their way. If it is a short it will work momentarily until the fuse blows- thats why they're in there- to protect the circuit.

If you have a short you will have to track it. Take the blown fuse out and run your tests on your wires- most. Sometimes those little instrument lights get a bad connection- glazed contacts & sometimes they act as sub-fuses as well, so it can get complicated. This is my generic solution for most vehicles.
Good luck hope this helps.

probly a new sensor is required?

THIS WAS POSTED ON THE AUDI TT CLUB WEB SITE.

Turn on the radio. The word "SAFE" appears on the display.

* Press the FM2 and RDS buttons simultaneously and hold them down until "1000" lights up in the display. Release buttons. Do not, under any circumstances, continue holding them down or press them once again. This would cause the radio to consider the number "1000" to be the input code number.

Use stations buttons 1 - 4 to enter the code number on your Radio Card.( THE RADIO CODE SHOULD BE WITH THE OWNERS MANUAL-??) Use button 1 to enter the first digit of the code number, button 2 to enter the second digit, and so on. Station buttons 5 and 6 cannot be used.

* Once the code is shown in the display, press the FM2 and RDS buttons again simultaneously and hold them down until the word "SAFE" appears on the display. Soon afterwards, a frequency will be displayed.

(If you do not have the "Radio Code", the Audi dealer, or someone, will have to pull the radio out to get the serial number off of the back.)

The radio can now be used again.

i have seen air pump hoses disconnected several times , also pull codes from memory , that will put you in the right direction