20 Most Recent 1994 Buick Roadmaster - Page 8 Questions & Answers

more likely fuel pump itsself. More likely the fuel pump is getting weak, getting stuck, or plugged. Fuel injected systems need a lot of pressure, so if you're not getting a lot of fuel out of the rail, then the pressure's not adequate.

Hi,
I might suggest pouring a fuel additive in your tank. Possibly you have some condensation/bad gas. Pour it in and let it sit overnight. See if it helps... it won't hurt.
Good luck!

Check / replace the heater motor control relay - it may be stuck on.

If the fuel pump is bad, it would still crank, but not start. If it is not cranking at all, the problem could be the battery, battery connection, starter, or ignition switch or relay. You test for fuel pressure by depressing the plunger in the middle of the Schraeder valve on the fuel rail. (It's like a tire inflation valve under a brass cap.) Fuel should spurt out even when the ignition switch is turned off.

make sure the battery is good and have someone to stand near the back and listen for the noise from the fuel pump if there is it maybe the crank sensor checkout these websites www.alldatadiy.com and www.autozone.com if all fails stop by your local library and get your hands on a Haynes auto repair manual for your car wish you the best of luck Michigan Man.

Fuel Pump RELAY & FUSE CHECKED & DO you Have POWER "TO" Fuel Pump ? ALSO OIL Sending Unit Supplys the GROUND To Fuel Pump , This is A Saftey FEATURE that Shuts Down Fuel If ENGINE Looses OIL PRESSURE . And If This OIL Sending Unit or also Called (OIL PRESSURE SENSOR) << If It FAILS it WILL Cause What Seems Like A Fue Pump Problem But Is Rally Just The Sensor that is BAD. HOPE this Sheds Light on Your Problem !

go to link and scroll down to the exploded view of you differential
http://www.compnine.com/index.php?t=1&year=1994&majorgroup=05&supplgroup=NULL&catcode=44B&modelcode=B&makecode=B&grouptype=B&modelid=1147577378&uid=1

You will need to get an idle pully, remove the air con. pump and fit the idle pully in its place. You may be able to reroute the belt but getting a belt to fit will be a problem.

you need to remove the door panel and with the window up and wedged so it dont come down on you remove the power connections to it and drill out the rivets and remove the old motor reassemble new motor and either rivet back in or bolts are supplied make sure the bolt faces out so not to interfere with the glass

Attached is pic - It is on top at the rear of the engine

you'll need to remove screws that are by the door handle, arm rest, under door and side of door and then gently pull back on the panel as there will also be retaining clips attached and you don't want to break them. Then pull back the weather seal (can't reuse it, but it's not that important) and you will be able to access everything.

New plug wires, sometimes when they get old they start to arc out and just make your car run terrible, especially on rainy days.

check by the bottom of the radiator towards the driver side or close to the firewall

I had the same problem or still do. I disconnected the wires to the air dryer which stopped the compressor. That did solve the cold air problem and with a flush of the heater core I have warm air now. It is a quick fix till I can determine why the a/c wants to keep running

If thats a 3.8 it should be drivers side under the rear door.

This is normal the fan will run for a few minutes to cool the coolant in the rad.