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1994 Buick Roadmaster - Page 6 Questions & Answers
I have a 1994 roadmaster
Hi,
You need to check the temperature range of the sender unit it's value may have been higher then what you replaced.
When you disconnect the plug from the switch an the fans are going it shows that all the other components of the system are working fine it's just the sender unit itself.
Run the vehicle for 10mins until the temp gauge comes up to operating temperature if the fans don't switch on and the gauge is still raising it maybe the temperature gauge sender maybe faulty, get this tested.
Hope this helps, let me know if you need more information.
Thanks
Jason
How do i get into
hi,
take out the back seat. usually the bottom part just unclips by pulling up and then that will expose a couple of bolts under there to get the upper back part undone. take a flashlight and a pair of pliers and your looking for a silver link that goes in between where the key goes and the mechanism, pull or turn this link to pop the trunk. battery chargers are pretty inexpensive (around 30.00) and always come in handy this time of year. just remember red wire to red black wire to black wire.
jm
1994 buick roadmaster, 5.7; I
Hi! Please check the connection of the compressor clutch. The wiring could be loose or cut thats why it wont kick. IF the wirings are good then try removing the positive battery connector then let it sit for atleast 10mins. This can reset the system. Reconnect the positive battery connector then see how it goes. HOpe this helps and thank you for using FIxYa!
I just finished replacing the
You should vbe able to unhook the battery to reset it you can also try jumping the switch on the drier to see if it kicks in also.
We put a fuel filter on and pump it ran perfect
IF you replaced a pump in the tank it's possible that the sending unit did not get put back properly which is why the gauge is not working. This could be a clue that the pickup line in the tank isn't seated properly either. You probably got a start from the fuel still in the line but now need to try cranking it a bit to pull fuel through. If that doesn't work after a few minutes try checking the items I mentioned above.
Both radiator cooling fans won't turn on vehicle overheats
The fans come on only when hot or the AC is on. There are many fuses that have to be good for it to work. The fan relay should have 2 pins hot with the key on, The other 2 should be ground. with the key off one should be hot and the other can then be ground the other pins that are ground one of them is the fan. the other becomes ground when the computer turns the fans on. If you don't have a pin thats hot at the relay all the time then theres a blown fuse or even the power wire from the battery at the battery
1994 buick roadmasters stall when it warms up
You need to retrieve the codes using an OB11 meter. It could be a number of things causing your problem. It could be an o2 sensor, coolant sensor, idle sensor or the fuel filter . I doubt it's the converter. OB11 is not too expensive & easily read. They range in price from 40-200 dollars. The cheaper one will suffice. Good luck! PS I don't think OB11 will read on your car; however, check with any autoshop & they may be able to show you the proper tool to obtain the codes. Good luck!
Where to put fuses on a 1994 buick roadmaster
the fuse panel is behind a trim cover on the side of the dash on drivers side, open the drivers door and u will dsee the trim cover the fuse panel, there is also a electrical distribution center under the hood insode a black plastic box, it contains cirvuit breakers and more fuses, all are marked by number, if u don't have a owners manual u can download a free one on PDF at the GM customer center, u must have a Yahoo account to use the site. here is a link to that site.
http://www.gm.com/gmownercenter/buick/
Only my passenger side fan activates at about 197
I don't know the specifics of your car but one of my cars has two fans but one only operates when the A/C is switched on. I don't know what you are referring to with climate control diagnostic? That same car of mine almost gets too hot before it kicks on. Maybe someone with a car like yours could answer that.
When taking the distributor off do i need to set
Yes. Roll the engine over onto #1 cylinder TDC and remove the distubuter cap. Place a mark on the body of the distributer inline with the rotor point before you do anything else. This mark may already be there, but if not, it needs to be permanent, such as a tiny chisel cut. Now you can withdraw the distributer. When replacing, it may have to engage the oil pump drive, so be careful you engage this properly. If not engaged, the distributer will not go down fully. As you inset the distributer, align the rotor with your mark. Make several attemps until you get it in pace and your mark lined up.You will notice the distributer shaft will turn as you insert it so you need to allow for that. Use a timing light to finally set the ignition timing.
Trunk lid won`t close
make sure the latch isn't already in the closed position. next if you've already slammed the truck several times and haven't broke the latch yet, you may have bent the latch that's attached to the truck lid as the sheet metal in this area is very flimsy. using a flash light , slowly close lid while peering in to see if the latch is lining up. you should be able to tell if its bent and in which direction. i had this similar problem and i simply grabbed a hold of the latch and pulled it forward, bending it back into a position where it will line up and latch on bottom piece. ( the part attached to the body and not the truck)
I have a 1994 Roadmaster. Brakes were fine
Don't drive the car, it's too dangerous! 1st check the fluid level. For the brakes to go to the floor, you must have a fluid leak somewhere. Any drips or puddles under the car? The grinding sound most likely indicates the brake pads are down to metal, and would explain the noise you hear. So, yes, it is the brakes, but as far as how much, a visual inspection is needed, as well as checking rotors for thickness to determine if they can be cut and used again, or if new ones are needed. Calipers need to be checked to make sure they are operating properly. If one is hanging up (not fully releasing), it could result in advanced wear to just one wheel. Always change brakes in sets, that is both front, both rear, or all 4 at once. Bleed the system well enough to flush out all lines, as old brake fluid can damage brake calipers and cylinders causing premature failure. The visual inspection will determine if you need calipers, pads, rotors, and how many wheels need new brakes. Good luck.
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