20 Most Recent 1985 Pontiac Fiero - Page 3 Questions & Answers

your engine is more important then your hood latch... crowbar it open... then fix the latch

I'm assuming the issue is that it will not pull tight enough to hold the car.

If my assumption is correct, you will find a steel cable at the rear of the car running left to right to the back of the brakes, there is an adjustment nut that you can tighten to take up the slack. Be sure to not over tighten so that the rear brakes are rubbing even when the ebrake is not pulled.

Hope this helps.

If it is coming from the radiator cap, get a proper replacement from the local parts store and hopefully that will be the end of the issue.

If you are still leaking you are going to need to check the hoses and for leaks at the water pump.

Hope this helps.

You are not getting fuel. EIther bad fuel pump or plugged fuel filter. No fuel pressure and it starts for a second with starting fluid, then there is no fuel being pumped to fuel lines.

Check your auto insurance, you may have lock out insurance.. If so, you can call a locksmith to do it right, and insurance will cover cost.

from autozone.com:

The Fiero is equipped with a electric fuel pump and gauge sending unit mounted in the fuel tank. The pump is serviced and a complete unit by removing the fuel tank.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

CAUTION To reduce the risk of fire and personal injury, it is necessary to relieve the fuel system pressure before servicing any fuel system component. If this procedure is not performed, fuel may be sprayed out of the connection under pressure. Always keep a dry chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher near the work area.

1. Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable.
2. Relieve the fuel system pressure.

Remove the fuel pump fuse from the fuse block located in the passenger compartment. Start the engine and run until the engine stops due to the lack of fuel. Crank the engine for 3 seconds to ensure all pressure is relieved.

1. Drain all the fuel from the tank using a suction pump.
2. Raise the vehicle and support with jackstands.
3. Disconnect the wiring from the tank.
4. Remove the ground wire retaining screw from under the body.
5. Disconnect all hoses and filler neck from the tank.
6. Support the tank on a jack and remove the retaining strap nuts.
7. Lower the tank enough to disconnect the fuel sending unit wires.
8. Disconnect the fuel line, vapor line and return line.
9. Remove the tank from the vehicle.
10. Remove the fuel gauge/pump retaining ring by turning the cam lock ring counterclockwise using a spanner wrench such as tool J-24187.
11. Remove the gauge unit and the pump.

To install:

1. Inspect the fuel pump attaching hose for any signs of deterioration and replace if necessary. Also, check the rubber sound insulator at the bottom of the pump.
2. Push the fuel pump assembly into the attaching hose.
3. Using a new O-ring seal, install the pump assembly into the tank.
4. Install the cam lock ring over the pump and lock by turning clockwise with a spanner wrench J-24187 or equivalent.
5. Support the tank on a suitable jack.
6. Raise the tank enough to connect all fuel and filler hoses.
7. Connect all electrical wires to the pump and tank.
8. Raise the tank and install the retaining strap nuts. Use new sound reducing pad if they are damaged. Check all connections and wire to ensure proper installation before refilling the tank.
9. Refill the tank with unleaded fuel. Reconnect the negative (-) battery cable.
10. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks and gauge operation.

The firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6. The odd numbers are front to back on the left of the fan and the even ones on the right side of the fan. The distributor turns clockwise and #1 is at the 5 o'clock position. Hope this helps.

english or spanish please

The Pontiac Fiero was made from 1984 to 1988
In the 84 thru 88 Fiero's they had the 2.5L In-Line 4-Cylinder or the 2.8L V6.
I have included both below

For the 2.5L In-Line 4-Cylinder:
Firing Order:
1 - 3 - 4 - 2
Cylinders:
.........(back)............
|...1....2....3....4...|
.........(front)
Distributor Connections:
..............2
...................(+)
....4
....................1
(+)
..........3

For the 2.8L V6:
Firing Order:
1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6
Cylinders
.......(back).........
|...1.....3.....5...|
|......................|
|...2.....4.....6...|
........(front)
Distributor:
............2
......1.........3
(+)...............(+)
......6.........4
............5

Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!

Fiero headlights are headaches, especially the early years (84-86). Be glad they are stuck up and not down!

Does it make a grinding noise or anything while trying to go back down?

If so, the internal nylon gears are worn and need to be replaced with metal ones and good lithium grease.

If no noise while trying to go down, then it's a power problem. Check the blue connector going to the headlamp, careful in this area, they motors can turn on/off suddenly if the power is restored to them. Don't get your hand caught in there!

There are also relays to check, 1 for each motor and 1 main one for the headlamps, get a haynes manual to find them. They are little black boxes.

Also, could be your on/off headlight switch, take it out of the dash to see if wires are loose.

There are lots of forums online about these headlights and how to fix them. Look around and good luck!

to me this sounds like your ignition timeing is off because of the hard start and the no power when accelerating. I would definently check the timing out on it
hope this helps you out

If you are refering to the thermostat housing, you can get them at the Fiero Store or you might try Ebay.

I'm assuming you don't have the electric latch...Since the key is turning, the piece of metal that connects the lock with the latching mechanism probably came off on the other end. You are going to have to destroy the lock. You can do that without hurting the rest of the car though. Drill it out so you can remove the locks internal pieces and stick a long regular screw driver in and turn the latch. The Fiero Store sells new locks.

have some one crank the car for u as u check if u gettin any sprk from the distrponer ,,, if u dont get any spark check if ur coil getin any spark and u have 2 be carefull it could shock u but wont hurt as bad as u think ,,if the coil is not getin any spark it one of the two pick up coil or moudle i would go with the moudle first its eaast to replace unsrew the the distponier than there u go the moudle infornt of you 2scrws on it take out relpace it put it 2gother and crank ;)

Air in the system might be the culprit. There are several techniques out there but filling the system with car level on the ground will not get all the air out. Without getting all the air out, it will overheat. I believe one of the techniques is to fill the system (at the thermostat housing) with the rear end lifted and the radiator cap off until the fluid flows out at the radiator. Then put the radiator cap on and finish filling it up. Also make sure your electric fan on the radiator is working as well as the temperature switch on the engine. I was having trouble with the fan relay and it wouldn't bring the fan on. Additionally at idle, there just doesn't seem to be enough flow so the temperature tends to rise when sitting at idle for any length of time. Unless you live up north, you may want to remove the thermostat. Down south, my engine heats up just fine without confining the water flow and with the limitations in the stock system, you'll never have a problem of running it "cool" anyway!

It is either oil,or rich fuel burn,and if it is white smoke,it could be coolant.

ya could have a loose wire

Possibilities:Timing is retarded,TPS (throttle position sensor) is malfunctioning.Make sure there isnt a vacuum leak(check vacuum lines and intake for whistling or air sucking)