20 Most Recent 1995 Chevrolet K1500 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

The turbo 350 ,,,,uses vacuum and a cable,,,to kick down,,, just run a vac line from intake to the regulator on back of the trans,,,pull the cable out as far as it will go,, hold your throddle wide open,,, will get you close,,, you may have to make a bracket to the kickdown in the proper place,,,

You need to check the Idle air control on the TBI and probably replace the temp switch by the water outlet. Not the one in the heads as it is also a temp switch. The switch by the water outlet sends a signal to the ecm as to what the temp is outside and if it is reading wrong you will have problems as well. Be sure you do not have any vacuum leaks to the engine as well.

Replace it wit a block heater easyer to do empty your radiater take of your batterie ground take of your starter punch the frezze plug replace it with block heater reinstall every ting fill up your radiater start engine check for leaks job done..

Clean the throttle plate(back side) and throttle body(inside), brake clean and a tooth brush. Replace the fuel filter. This will take care of your problem. Beware though, since the filter was clogged it could have weakened the fuel pump. This would be the next thing to die.

Is it setting any codes? (some 95's had OBD1 I think). Check vacuum and mechanical advance in distributor, and possible bad ignition module but they don't usually act quite like this. I'm betting bad distributor mechanical advance.

If the cat converter was broken up inside when you replaced it, yes. Peices flow rearward and generally plug the exhaust system. If that is the case, remove the system and see if it rattles when you shake it. You can try to dislodge the pieces by inverting the pipe and shaking it but usually the muffler will have to be replaced. Are you sure your not confusing this shudder with transmission shudder? The best way to verify if it's an exhaust problem is to remove the cat. converter, wire up the exhaust and drive it.... Is it better?

With no additional information, I would target the lock-up torque converter solenoid.

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Sounds like you have a fault in your ABS system. To find the failure code, put a jumper between terminal A and terminal H on the ALDL connector, then turning the key on. It will flash the code after about 20 seconds.


Here's the list of the codes
Code 2: open isolation solenoid or EBCM malfunction Code 3: open dump solenoid or EBCM malfunction Code 4: grounded anti-lock pressure valve rest switch Code 5: excessive dump valve actuations during anti-lock stop Code 6: erratic speed signal Code 7: shorted isolation solenoid or EBCM malfunction Code 8: shorted dump solenoid or EBCM malfunction Code 9: open or grounded speed signal circuit Code 10: stop lamp switch circuit Codes 1, 11 and 12: invalid diagnostic trouble codes Codes 13, 14 and 15: electric brake control module malfunction

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Torque converter, torque converter solenoid. both in the transmission. Also the EPC solenoid.

Sounds like you are losing fuel pressure. At low rpms it will not show up. Could be a bad fuel pump. Since you have spent so much money I highly suggest replacing fuel pump. Also check for any fuel leaks. I truly believe their is a leak in vaccuum A thumbs up would be greatly appreciated if this answer is helpful

Please watch this video. Its not jard to do ot yourse A thumbs up would be greatly appreciated if this answer is helpful

I will suggest watching this video. Just dont want to leave anything out. A thumbs up would be greatly appreciated if this answer is helpful

What is "safe mode"? Do you mean transmission is in fail safe mode (Limp home mode or stuck in high gear)?
Probably missing 12v down to the transmission. At the transmission connector with ignition in on position look for pin E it should have 12v. If it's missing you have a bad fuse or bad ignition switch.

Check the connection on the temperature sending unit/sensor on the engine. If it's disconnected the computer won't put it in cold start mode. If it's carbureted instead of EFI then the choke is not coming on. It's an electric actuated choke and the wire could have come off the blade/pin while driving the day before.

You got ignition problems

See what is on You Tube Video, if you have no vehicle experience with brake work There is more than one cable,usually 3 plus the one from the cabin

-There is couple things cause that. Possibly: -Spark plug too dirty, pack w/carbon, oil. -Broken plug wire. -Bad injector. -dirty air flow sensor. Good luck Mai

The parking brake is near a large bundle of wires, if the bundle is touching the brake arm it may have damage, use wire ties and tie it out of the way of the park brake.

Timing chain slack. It has actually stretched out do to age and lack of oil maintenance. Yes, steel chains do stretch.

All older GM engines with solid lifters had a simple procedure. Take the rockers to zero lash on push rods, then 1/2 turn past that, and you are done. Just be sure you have the cam in the right position to set each rocker correctly