20 Most Recent 2003 Mazda Mazda6 - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Generally, early fuse box, try to look silver cylindrical device.

i know on some factory radios the radio code is sometimes on the back of the radio or in the owners manual. if its not there you will probably have to call the dealership and get it.

The airbag system in this car is second generation smart airbags, there is no switch, if the weight in the passenger seat is not at least 50 pounds (there is a sensor in the seat cushion) the airbag is switched off to the paassenger seat, but small children should always be in a approved child seat in the back seat anyway.

Hey,
you can install an simulator (Airbagmodul) from www.airbagmodul.com
This is a perfect and cheap solution if you dont want to spend about 1000€ in the garage.

Most likely your radiator is leeking. If its low and ur engine is iver heating that is most likely the problem. 80% of the time theres smoke coming from ur engine, its a leak of some sort. Could be oil as well

If its not an abnormal amount of smoke its fine, its probably just getting old. If its a lot of smoke, ur radiator could be leeking into ur oil wich would cause smoke. To check this, turn ur car on on flat ground for about 2min, then turn the car off, pull out the oil stick, whipe it, put it back in, take it back out just like ur checking ur oil amd if ur seeing neon colors on the stick (usually red or green) then thats it. Theres is many ither things it could be, but thats the most common....IF ITS AN ABNORMAL AMOUNT OF GAS

Exactly what code number detected there... send us the Pxxxx fault code show in the scanner reader tool.

Hello
The electronic engine control system in your car (called the OBD2 system) must go through a self test called a "Drive Cycle" it consists of specific types of driving to pass the test and make the system "Ready" and a pass at the smog station. Below is a drive cycle test description for your vehicle, you must complete exactly as stated to make the system pass.

Here is a Mazda drive cycle:

Pre-requisites: MIL off and no DTCs present (this is where clearing your codes comes in); fuel level between 15% and 85% of full, all accessories OFF, cold start (preferred 8 hour cold soak w/ engine between 68 and 86 deg F at start-up)

1) Start vehicle and idle 5 min.
2) Rev engine in neutral or park to 2300-2700 rpm for 15 seconds
3) Rev engine in neutral or park to 3800-4200 rpm for 15 seconds
4) Idle engine for 20 seconds with cooling fan stopped.
5) Accelerate to 52-55 mph, maintain speed (in high gear) for 1 1/2 minutes
6) Decelerate to 15 mph, and then drive for 13 minutes at speeds ranging from 15 to 35 mph
7) Maintain steady 25 mph for 50 seconds.

Each step of the drive cycle indicates a test for a different monitor on the vehicle (catalyst, o2 sensor, evap, etc) so each step is important. Some vehicles are a pain and may require a few drive cycles.

Invest the <$30 US in an aftermarket service manual for your car.  Haynes or Chilton (same publisher) will have one and you will find it a great way to answer those kinds of questions and maybe, save you from an unscrupulous service shop, if you can check the book to see if the problem they want to fix can have anything to do with a failure you are experiencing. You can buy these on line or at any auto parts store.  

If you bought the spark plugs at auto zone,these are factory seconds,and will fail under the ignition system you have,check the coil boots also,make sure they are good and the boots are on good,but it is most likely in the ignition area.

On my 2003 Mazda 6S the problem was a loose gas cap which caused the check engine light to come on and stay on. To turn the light off you have to disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes.

Bad battery cable can cause these symptoms. Check under the cable covering(trim it back about 1/4 inch and see if the cable looks like copper or is white(corroded). If white it will probably have to be replaced.