20 Most Recent 2005 Mazda 6 Questions & Answers

Most modern cars have the fuel filter built into the fuel pump itself inside the actual fuel tank. Replacing it isn't usually needed unless a batch of very bad fuel has been used or if the filter is on a very high mileage pump. If there is no inspection cover under the rear seat pad you will need to drop the fuel tank off and out from under the vehicle to change it.

To hyjacker Jeeda and others.Yes, all cars can do this, we call it KEY OFF phantom drain. most cars spec list ILLEGALL drains (spec)_ as over 0.050 amperes. (50mA max)KeyOFF.Here is a short to do list to find it. (most steps need ammeter to find it, )1 A dark garage. find lamps stuck on, every INCH of car inside and out. go slow and look (bingo?)2: connect the ammeter to the battery PLUS lug. see that drain? illegall? now, key off for sure.3: now unplug every fuse 1 by 1 to find the feed that has drain. (cab/ eng.bay) unplug and put back. actions.4: unplug all relays, same way as fuse, found it, yet? see drain go away is he goal, simple goal.5: ok 3 or 4 finds bad feed line with drain,we then unplug all things 1 by 1 on that failing feed found above.6: ok nothing found yet,(cause) move ammeter to huge wire on the Alternator, lub, see a drain there (BINGO bad ALT)the below ammeter (amp/clamp) is the most easy way to find Phantom Drains. bar noneunless the scan tool scans told you what was bad ? a Phantom drain allowed to persist can wreck the battery in just 24hours.THE METER must DO DC amps (many do not and costs tad more for DC amps) DC CURRENTAND A 2AMP RANGE. at least.https://www.amazon.com/Current-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Ammeter-V-Alert/dp/B094R8CB4W/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=dc%2Bamp%2Bmeter&qid=1659787362&sr=8-10&th=1on my meter it has autozero button that must be pushed 1 time in current mode. to calibrate it first ,and clamp; the wire first. (better meters cost more)I put a STAR icon to show the amp lamp test points, (battery cable and ALT) simple example.

Is it an automatic? something to do with the safety interlock as it involves the brake? As you have so many issues, you need an auto electrician with a pro grade scan tool computer to diagnose which of the sensors and modules is faulty. Likely to be one of the ??? position sensors. Vibration is caused by the engine not firing and running smoothly, perhaps only 2 cylinders firing.

Is this a bulb in the heater controls? If so I had the same problem and got the bulbs from this auction:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190510970759

Worked a treat and they helped me with a guide to removing the console too.

Hello. It seems there is a problem with either your car's starter relay, wiring and/or ECM. Most 'functions' of modern vehicles goes through the ECM. Good luck and keep me informed; if you want to.

Yes, as long as you are talking about amps and not volts.

Hi there's this website something like reliable-store and it is very amazing for manual for repairing servicing anything someone on fixya recommended it to me and I thank him even today

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You will get your solution and all info on service info, repair info, parts info, wiring/electrical/fuse diagrams, error/fault codes, torque specs, PCV, owner's/service/repair/parts/maintenance manuals etc everything this website www.reliable-store.com it's a very good website for vehicle problems even as old as 1991 ford..

Sounds like your hydraulic lifters. http://www.carparts.com/results/?N=0&Nr=AND%28universal%3A0%29&PN=0+7643&VN=4294951210+4294963113+4294952435&universal=0

If it started only 3 days ago, go to your auto parts store and the next time you fill up, add a can of Sea Foam. If there is a gas station near you which sells gasahol-free gas, fill it up with that, then take it out on the interstate and kick it into passing gear several times (I hope you don't get a speeding ticket).

I would check the pedal position sensor. Do it when it's hot. Mazda Car 2005-06

• Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor

  Description & Operation A power supply is applied on the Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor (main) power terminal from the PCM. The ground terminal is grounded with PCM. When the accelerator pedal is moved from the idle position to the fully opened position, the resistance between the accelerator pedal position sensor (main) output terminal and ground terminal will increase according to the depression. A power supply is applied on the Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor (main) power terminal from the PCM. The ground terminal is grounded with PCM. When the accelerator pedal is moved from the idle position to the fully opened position, the resistance between the accelerator pedal position sensor (main) output terminal and ground terminal will increase according to the depression.

Testing

1. Connect a suitable scan tool to the diagnostic connector. Select APP1 or APP2 percentage.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
3. Measure the voltage at the PCM terminal and ground with connectors connected: APP1-8% load or 0.4 volts with the accelerator pedal releasedAPP1-60% load or 3.0 volts with the accelerator pedal depressedAPP2 -8% load or 0.4 volts with the accelerator pedal releasedAPP2 -60% load or 3.0 volts with the accelerator pedal depressed
4. If any check above does not meet the specifications, check connectors and wiring between the sensor and PCM. If ok, replace PCM.
5. If the measured values are outside the standard value range, or if the load % and/or voltage does not change smoothly, replace the sensor.

1. Connect a suitable scan tool to the diagnostic connector. Select APP1 or APP2 percentage.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
3. Measure the voltage at the PCM terminal and ground with connectors connected: APP1 %-31.0-32.4% with the accelerator pedal releasedAPP1 %-69.8-81.8% with the accelerator pedal depressedAPP2 %-20.2-21.4% with the accelerator pedal releasedAPP2 %-58.8-70.8% with the accelerator pedal depressed
4. If any check above does not meet the specifications, check connectors and wiring between the sensor and PCM. If ok, replace PCM.
5. If the measured values are outside the standard value range, or if the load % does not change smoothly, replace the senso

first -for it to record a fault the car has to be run for some time --15 minutes or 50 miles because intermittent faults are not always recorded as an example consider this on your phone you have a pin number now if you press the incorrect numbers 2 times nothing happens and you can start again next day ( in the car it is like you pressing the numbers 2 times = no code) however press the incorrect number 3 or more times , you need a PUK code to get back in ( in the car pressing the wrong number too many times = to a code now being reported) carefully record when it stalls ( at lights with the foot on the brake), changing down ratios when slowing down) surging on acceleration--rpm reading is critical or deceleration --road speed and engine rpm correlation fuel level situation when it occurs ( full , partially full or close to empty) from you statement, I would suggest that you put a can of quality injector cleaner in the tank on filling for a couple of fills as it indicates an injector/s problem and that will not record a code unless a cylinder misfires for a set period of time it is easier to do the simple things first then have the codes read by an accredited service shop that has experience on your make of car

Have the codes read with a scan tool. Most auto parts stores will do it free.

Fuel pump won't be the cause. Most likely the relay.