Top 10 1999 Mazda 626 Questions & Answers

The battery in the 7777 remote is a CR2032. If upon changing the battery the remote fails to work then you should stand next to the car and hold down both remote buttons for around 10 seconds to reactivate it. The remotes LED will flicker rapidly during this process. Keep holding both buttons until the LED stops flickering then release both buttons. The LED should now be on constant, press the larger of the two buttons and the remote should now be re-synced.
Note: This procedure is not to program the remote to the alarm, but to re-synchronise it.

The firing order on all four cylinder engines is 1.3.4.2. and number one cylinder is at the opposite end of the engine to the gearbox, at the end with the belts and pulleys.

The book is wrong on each cam gear there are two sets of marks "notches align them facing each other in the center of head nevermind "I" and "E" if correct you'll have both of them making one line in the center of both pulleys and the other set of notches will be 45 degrees below. I found this out the hard way just finished with mine for info and tips on mechanics and parts for your ride visit my site at www.godspeedmotorsportsonline.com

Here are both, for the 4 and 6 cylinder

Sure, but you have to be able to handle the contents of the coolant system (roughly 2 gallons) and be prepared to refill it with fresh coolant. To replace it, drain the cooling system first. Remove the top radiator hose from the thermostat housing at the top of the engine. Remove the bolts holding the housing to the engine and then pull the housing up. It may be stuck and you will need to pry it up gently. Do not use a screwdriver under the housing to pry it as you will gouge the metal and cause a leak later. Often a few soft taps from a rubber mallet will loosen it. Note how the thermostat spring is set in the housing as that is the way the new one will go. You will need to remove all of the old gasket material and avoid letting it get dropped into the engine opening. I stuff a shop towel in the opening before I start scraping with a plastic scraper -again this avoids damaging the soft aluminum. Once the old stuff is out, put in the new gasket, put the thermostat in (you will have already bought it and have it on hand) cinch down the bolts to be snug but not overly tight as they can strip easily. Replace the hose (maybe with a new one since you've done the hard part?) and then refill the cooling system and test run to look for leaks. You will need to get the engine up to normal temp to allow the thermostat to begin working. Might as well change all radiator hoses if they are more than 3 years old at this point. Otherwise you will be draining the coolant system again to do it later.

Have fun with it.

Answer to question Where is the Fuel Pump relay on a 1999 Mazda 626.

The relay in in the cover box that contain a variety of fuses just behind the batterty on the driver side of the car. One has to press the tab and remove the cover to see the relay. The cover give a brief description of the fuse and relay locations, but does not call it fule pump relay. The blue arrow point to the fuel pump relay

In order to get the system to clear and be "Ready" you must complete a Mazda OBD 2 drive cycle test, below u will find the detailed instructions from the factory service manual to do the drive cycle and clear the system to make it "Ready" the make system ready is done in 4 phases, it is allot for a 1st timer to perform, but u must complete this to get the system clear. THE FOLLOWING IS FROM THE FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL.

DRIVE MODE 1
ECU Adaptive Memory Produce Drive Mode

1. Start the engine and warm it up completely
2. Verify that the following conditions are correct if necessary:
   • All accessory loads (A/C, headlights, climate control fan, rear window defroster) are off.
   • Initial ignition timing and idle speed are within specification.
   • TEN and GND at the Diagnostics connector are not connected
3. With the transmission in Park, perform no load racing for at least 15 seconds at the following engine speeds sequentially, then return the engine to idle speed :
   • 1500 rpm (at least 15 seconds)
   • 2400 rpm (at least 15 seconds)
   • 3400 rpm (at least 15 seconds)
   • 4300 rpm (at least 15 seconds)
4. Ensure that the main cooling fan has stopped. Allow the engine to idle for at least 20 seconds with the cooling fan off. If possible, monitor the engine speed and cooling fan status using an OBD-II interface

1. Perform DRIVE MODE 1 first.
2. Verify that the following conditions are met and correct if necessary:
   • All accessory loads (A/C, headlights, climate control fan, rear window defroster) are off.
3. Drive the vehicle at 53 mph (or 85 km/h) for at least 1 minute
4. Stop the vehicle and use an OBD-II interface to check for Drive Mode completion. If not complete, turn ignition key to OFF, then return to Step 3.
5. Use an OBD-II interface to access DIAGNOSTIC MONITORING TEST RESULTS. If "MEASs" are not within specification, repair has not been completed
6. Verify no DTCs are present.

1. Perform DRIVE MODE 1 first.
2. Verify that the following conditions are correct if necessary:
   • All accessory loads (A/C, headlights, climate control fan, rear window defroster) are off.
3. Start the engine and allow it to idle for at least 5 minutes. Drive the vehicle above 40 mph (65 km/h) for at least 1 minute followed by at least 3 minutes between 40-60 mph (65-96 km/h).
4. Stop the vehicle and use an OBD-II interface to check for Drive Mode completion. If not complete, turn ignition key to OFF, then return to Step 3.
5. Use an OBD-II interface to access DIAGNOSTIC MONITORING TEST RESULTS. If "MEASs" are not within specification, repair has not been completed
6. Verify no DTCs are present.

1. Verify that the following conditions are met. All conditions must be within specifications before engine is started to initiate the EVAP system test.
   • Engine coolant temperature is below 22 degrees C (72 degrees F) under low (540 kPa) barometric pressure conditions or below 32 degrees C (90 degrees F) under high (638 kPa) barometric pressure conditions.
   • Intake air temperature is 10-60 degrees C (50-140 degrees F)
   • Barometric pressure is at least 72 kPa
   • Fuel tank level is between 0.5-2.5V
2. Verify that all accessory loads (A/C, headlights, climate control fan, rear window defroster) are off.
3. Start the engine and race it with the gear selector in park at 3,500 rpm to warm it up completely (approximately 200 seconds) then return the engine to idle speed.
4. Accelerate slowly (taking 20 seconds) until a constant speed of between 40-60 mph (65-96km/h) has been reached. Maintain speed for 2 minutes.
5. Stop the vehicle and use an OBD-II interface to check for Drive Mode completion. If not complete, turn ignition key to OFF, then return to Step 1.
6. Use an OBD-II interface to access DIAGNOSTIC MONITORING TEST RESULTS. If "MEASs" are not within specification, repair has not been completed.
7. Verify no DTCs are present.

Here is a picture

OK, This worked well for me. Easier than some solutions I read on the internet.
This method does not require getting under the car.
1. Loosen the 17mm bolt on the belt tensioner pulley.
2. Turn the tension screw (10mm) conuter clockwise to losen the belt.
3. Remove the Serpentine belt.
4. Drain and remove the radiator. Catch the coolant, filter and reuse.
5. Remove the negative battery cable from the battery.
6. Remove the battery cable from the alternator and uclip the control connector.
7. Remove the top alternator support bolt.
8. Losen the bottom alternator support bolt. It will not come out. The support
bracket is a slot, not hole. The alternator bolt and all will slide out of the slot
directly toward the front of the car.
9. Lift the alternator out between the engine and AC condensor.
10. Reverse the procedure to install the new alternator.

Good Luck

You car came with a 4 (2.0 L) and 6 (2.5 L) cylinder engine so here are both diagrams. Just match the numbers for proper plug wire hookup.



Here is the 4 cylinder.