20 Most Recent 1972 Oldsmobile 98 - Page 6 Questions & Answers

If it is a manual transmission, it could be a clutch issue.

If it is an automatic, it is more likely a true transmission issue.

you are talking about the center axle nut, its about a 32mm but this doesnt need to be removed to replace the rotor, all you need to do is remove the caliper and the braket and then beat back of rotor to break free from the hub and then it slides out.

The hazard switch is faulty.Replace the hazard switch and the problem will be solved.

You definitely have electrical problems check an electrician..

check the fuse.

I don't know the type or year of vehicle nor your experience with diagnostics to answer this.

The ECM on a 1991 Oldsmobile is on the Passenger Side and up behind the passenger kick panel and glove box. It sounds like your ECM is overheating, causing it to fail after driving for a few miles. Replace the ECM and this problem should go away. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

fuel tank

the heater fan circulates the air for the a/c. so when a/c is on adjust it with the fan controls. if more problems with it, repost. if a/c compressor is not working. check the a/c relay in fuse box.

Eventually found water on the igniter connections. It's on the right side near the brake master cylinder.

I hope when you changed all those parts you confirmed you weren't getting spark at the plugs. I always hate to read about people shot gunning parts. Many times it turns out to be a needless waste of time and money. Check it before you change it. If you did, good on ya.

Letting water in the cylinder wasn't the greatest move but, a few minutes of running should clear it out. Next time blow it out with compressed air.

Hope helps.

Hello
The crankshaft sensor and the camshaft sensor both will shut down the vehicle if they are faulty. I would make sure that the crankshaft sensor is the problem first though and not a wiring issue like a bad connection to the sensor or a broken wire to the sensor. As for the camshaft sensor there really is no reason to replace it right now except for the fact that it is right there while you have the car torn down to get to the crank sensor,since there is no code for it right now if its not broke dont fix it nothing wrong with preventitive maintenance.
Good luck
Chris

If the car will go in drive then the 1st gear and reverse band is ok depending on the year model. There is a good chance thhat the shifter needs to be adjusted.

1. Most tie rods consists of a Ball-Joint assembly. After removing the tire, you will need to pull the Tie-Rod Nut Retaining Pin before trying to take off the Tie-Rod Ball Joint Nut.
2. After the Nut is removed, you can use a ball-joint separator to separate the ball-joint from the Hub assembly.
3. After the Ball-joint is separated, mark the position of the old Tie-Rod where it connects to the Rack and Pinion assembly, and then remove the tie rod using a wrench.
4. Installation is the reverse of disassembly.
5. Once it is back together, you will need to get your vehicle aligned.

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

Is the exhaust converter 19 years old & bocked ?
Is the fuel filter clogged ?
Check TPS Sensor

The grinding ,I would need the car to find that

If you stop by your local parts store, they will be able to tell you and they will check the engine for codes for free as well.

All it shows i "Oldsmobile" for your vehicle, so it will depend on which vehicle you have , but if you have located the starter whether it be on the under side of the motor, or side driver, it should be only 2 or 3 bolts to remove, and you will have to disconnect your battery before removal. The starter will have either a plug, or a nut with wires attached depending on the year make and model, but its a pretty cut and dry pull and replace procedure. Once its out, place the new one in the same way, put your wires back together, and reconnect your battery. Pretty simple. Thanks.

hook two wires up to it and put a 12 volt light on the end of them no guarentees but should work,.... hope this helps?

Sounds like the hydrolic lifters, throw in a lifter treatment and see what happens, you might have to go with a thicker engine oil if its still there.

I would start by doing a compression test. If you have a low cylinder than no adjustments will improve it. Also the plug gap and the timing will not cause misfire. The point gap would make a difference, but it sounds like you have other issues, so start with a compression test. Hope this helps. Good luck :O)

engine and trans drop out from bottom while attached to sub frame.