Top 20 1998 Chevrolet Malibu - Page 4 Questions & Answers

double posted, and not double answered, back up one post (yours) and read. do not double post,only add to one post. one topic, PLEASE.

Use a voltmeter and go from the brake switch which is under the brake pedal and go to a brake light if you have no volts or if you have ok for resistance you have a broken wire check your brake switch first I've found that to be the major weak point

Did it have compression before you changed them? Why did you change them. I think that the push rods are different lengths for intake and exhaust. Did you mix them up?

It is a constant velocity joint they works On front wheel drive car like a drive shaft that pivot s

Well there's the obvious, did you check the fuse? If so, I think you might need a new sensor I've had these little buggers short out on me over practically nothing and to change it (unless you have an access hatch in your trunk) you're gonna need to drop your gas tank and its wrapped around your fuel pump.

First look under the dash for the reset button then turn the ignition to the run position and push the button. The alarm should chirp or at least flash the lights. then your car should start.

Remove two screws in center console and one in the tray under the dash or two in cup holders depending on design. Small Allan wrench metric in side or front of shifter. If horizontal slot front and rear of shift knob then reach in with small beetle nose or push with small screw driver on other ends of a horseshoe clippy out of slot. Lift up on console. The cable on right is the transmission shift. And the one on the left is the brake switch activated cable that runs up to the column. Pry evenly on both sides with two prybars and cable will pop off. Its not fun pulling bottom of column apart. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/christpher_f760d0f18f8eedc3

TO DISCONECT THE CABLE JUST OPEN THE HOOD AND DISCONNECT IT, THEN SHIFT MANUALY, MAKE SURE THE E BRAKE IS ON, TO REPLACE THE CABLE YOU NEED THE KEY,

You do not have one

If you replaced the lock cylinder and it came with a new key, and the car has a factory anti-theft system, the new key has to be programed to the anti-theft module. If the new key does not have a small + sign stamped into it, it does not have the transponder built into it and you will need a new key that has the transponder and have it programed. Just cutting a copy of the key is only half the job Usually they will not start at all...that's the whole point of the anti-theft thing. The codes will not reset because the problem has not been fixed. Most locksmiths can do this for about fifty bucks, but not a hardware store that makes keys, or yes...the dreaded Chevy dealer. Your code reader does not have this programing capability.

Most likely culprit is a wire shorting out to the body of the car and blowing the fuse.the best Idea is to follow wire from gauge to tank. to find the short or broken wire. Good-Day!

poor running,stalling,a bad maf sensor will set a code. lack of power,spark knock/detonation,buck, jerk, hesitation on acceleration.also very hard shifts.

Sounds like a servo seal (o-ring) in the trans itself. If the seal leaks, it will not allow the proper pressure to build in the circuit that engages bands and clutches. I see a trans rebuild in your future.

The orange wire from the Sony is the illumination wire, 12 volts put to this wire will dim the display on the stereo. The Jeep's BLUE/RED wire should have that function. Use a test light or multi meter to check for 12 volts + on that wire when the park lights are turned on. The stereo will still function perfectly without the connection, just won't have the auto-dim feature.

yes it can contribute to the problem. run the fault codes first to make sure . oxygen sensor problems will also cause the problems along with canister purge valve faults.

I would go to Autozone and ask them to check your computer for trouble codes. I would expect a Throttle Position Sensor, or EGR code to be present.

You may need a scanner to proceed - - is the cooling fan coming on at 230 degrees and does it cool down the engine to normal (200 degrees) ?

open the hood ,the starter is down by the manifold, tap on it while someone is cranking the switch if the starter turns ,its the starter.

Some require a special disconnect tool other style which you may have could just be a piece of old plastic clip stuck which you can use a small pick tool to work it out

You'll need to figure out if you are missing fuel or spark to proceed. Will it start using starting fluid sprayed into the intake ?