Jaguar XJ8 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 5

Just go under the seat and unplug it

90 amps.

If I understand your statement correctly, noise but the engine will not "turn over." This sounds like the starter motor is running but the gear that engages the flywheel gear-teeth is not making contact at all or is moving into too-slight contact, just enough to make a lot of noise. In U.S. cars the device on the stater motor that moves the starter gear forward is called a "Bendix." As the starter motor starts to turn, the Bendix shoves a small gear forward, engaging teeth on the flywheel which spins the flywheel to start the engine. If the Bendix is sticking or has failed the gear will not move forward at all or not far enough. Sarting with the least cost first, I'd look toward a "sticky" bendix. Try using a light penetrating oil or perhaps, WD-40 to free-up the Bendix.

My best guess is that the piston is near the top of the cylinder but the leak is below the rings right now where it is. Perhaps a crack in the block near the bottom of the cylinder allowing the leak only during part of the piston cycle.

There are only a few ways coolant can get out of the cooling system. First check where the hoses connect to the radiator to make sure they are completely dry. Then check directly under radiator to make sure it isn't damp. Sometimes the radiator cap will go bad and allow some coolant to leave. You can replace the radiator cap relatively cheap. The very worst way you can be loosing coolant is thru a blown head gasket. The coolant slowly leaks into the cylinder and is burned. You would have to go to a mechanic to have this verified.

Most likely you need an overhaul.

If it is cranking fine but not firing then you have a fuel problem. Maybe the fuel pump, filter, injectors...etc.

You NEVER in---- my world ---use any sealant in any vehicle systems-- as it is there for life It will stop up a heater core It will stop up a radiator It will not or seldom be a fix for a head gasket replacement Get the idea Don't know what to tell you Did it shut down from lack of oil pressure to save the motor? How your going to get that out of the bearings,cam actuators, oil passages,oil pump,sensors I think your in BIG Trouble & need to ask many shops what success they have had with that issue I say stay out of the parts store chemical isle, with the exception of LUBEGARD for transmission & power steering additives Those are ALL, I Repeat ALL, I use & they actually not only work but are necessary in those two items only (i once owned a trans shop) I use NO other brands,no Lucus,no genie in a bottle Just Mobil 1 Oil & Lube Guard & make the proper diagnoses to all vehicles & do the necessary & painful repairs

do u mean the plastic coolant tower? if so its held by 3 torx screws and u have to remove the inlet manifold for access, the thermostat housing containing the stat by 3 x 8mm headed bolts easy to get at

See if you can get jumper cables on the car. Hot one on the starter post where battery connects, and negative to a frame piece. You may get enough juice flowing to get the doors unlocked.

couldnt even envisage a answer without a good look iam afraid to say but it should open from the inside if it doesnt then its a fault with operating solonoid for the central locking thats hold the mechanism down but i think this door lock is all incorperated in one and its the same as a ford mondeo or focus but as yet i havent had to change one so i dont know exactly

If will not start when does it squeal?

Trunk opener is electric. Try using key. Also, if electric OK, then push small button on back of trunk.

Could be the calipers. If they are warped, changing the pads wont help. Have them checked

common problem sounds like the engine is flooded its more than likely the old engine with nicosil coated liners they wear fast due to the high sulphur content in the fuel and loose compression you can restart by putting a small amount of oil down each spark plug hole in to the cylinders you need to check your engine no. with jag dealer to see if it is in the affected range never stop the engine when it is cold

I would start by checking to see if the signal is being pulsed to the coil and/or the injector. If those are good, check the compression. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/forrest_f5a3e9d21691ce99

remove rear mudflaps if fitted, remove screws from rear of wheel arch liners. two 19mm headed bolts from underside of bumper, be warned they sieze and a lot of force will destroy the bumper mounts and the bumper beam not cheap to repair.

If you suspect you have a blown fuse, then you can find it in less than thirty seconds using my method. Instead of wasting time searching for the exact location, why not just remove each fuse 1 by 1, and keep putting them back (if good) as you go so you don't mix them up. If you have any blown fuses, you will find it! If you don't know the difference between a good vs blown fuse, ill post a picture to help you identify.

you may get more help if this was in the right search. would think the mother board has a fault could be the fuse or the psu side of the mother board.

You will have to remove the trim around the radio, could be easy, and then again it might not. Will be able to unbolt the radio after you remove the trim. Should not require any more than a couple screwdivers and a good range of metric sockets