Hello. It seems the air conditioner control panel may be at fault. Sometimes, if the relay and fuse(s) are fine AND the blower motor was replaced, that's, really, all that is left to replace; the a/c control panel. Good luck and keep me informed; if you want to.
if you cleared the code - fixed arc and checked their are no more arcs - and keeps coming back then problem can be a burnt or carboned valve --lifter -push rod --piston
Regulator in your replaced alternator is probably not working properly.- may be faulty. Check the voltage at the battery while the vehicle is running - should be approx. 14v.
sounds like a head gasket problem not much other than replacement can fix that. if it is not a bad leak and you want a short term temperay fix try iron tight but i suggest trading it in after adding iron tight because it will stop the leak for short term but cause major problem in the long run any local parts store should have iron tight. good luck
Latch hook needs to be replaced. Some use rubber coating to dampen rattle. Yours may have worn out. check flushness of door to main bodyline. Sometimes the door is latched but there is some gap between door sill and door. If that is the case, the latch hook needs to be repositioned towards the inside.
Mine did the same thing. After having the batt checked and being assured there was nothing wrong with it I went "old school" and pulled and cleaned the batt cable ends. Also cleaned the connections just downstream from the ends as they were easy to get to. Haven't had a starting problem in 8 months now so must have found something. Hope this helps ya . Sometimes we get so wound in in high tech that forget the KISS system of troubleshooting.
When you try to start it do the lights dim way low, have you been able to start it with a jump from another vehicle, unfortunately, chances are the starter needs to be replaced. How many miles does it have?
CODE PO755 AT 2/4 SOLENOID CIRCUIT FAILURE.YOU NEED A SPECIAL SCANNER TO CHECK SOLENOID AND ITS CONTROL CIRCUIT TO SEE WHATS AT FAULT.IF YOU DECIDE TO REPLACE THE 2/4 SOLENOID.YOU NEED A CODE SCANNER TO ERASE CODE.
Hello
Many times this problem is caused by the coiled flat ribbon contact that is located under the steering wheel, it looks like a Clock-Spring if you were to take it apart, it is contained inside a plastic flat round enclosure . Also make sure you have properly functioning brake lights, they can keep the cruise from coming on as well. If the brake lights check ok then the clock spring-contact contact may be the problem, one of the contact filament's is broken and the connection to the steering wheel switches of the Cruise has been lost. In order to replace this contact you must disarm the airbag system.
At the link below is a instructional video on YouTube of how to replace the Clock-Spring rotating contact in a Chrysler product Mini Van.
I recently replaced the battery on the 2009 company Dodge Caravan, after which the climate controls stopped responding. The fix just happened to be removing the M34, 10 amp fuse and re-inserting it. Strange... but it worked.
The transmission fluid is not coming out of your A/C Condenser for that only carries freon through it on the High side of your A/C System. I may be mistaken, but the condenser is mounted on the right front side (or passenger side) of your vehicle. Insofar as your transmission fluid leaking, there are two lines that go directly to your Radiator, either bolted straight in or at times, have a hose with clamps going down one of the tanks of the Radiator. Usually it's on the Driver's side front. This enables the transmission fluid to cool within the radiator before it returns to the transmission pan. It's a sealed "little radiator" within your Radiator, so if it's not leaking from one of the lines, then follow the lines (through the grille), and see if you have an "air-cooled" transmission cooler in front of the Radiator or Condenser. If your vehicle came with a Trailer Towing Package, then this "cooler" will be in front of the Radiator or Condenser at the lowest point. (it also goes through the radiator as I explained above). If the rubber lines are leaking, then it's pretty simple to replace, BUT you have to use Hoses that are meant for carrying oil or transmission fluid. "Normal" hoses will work for a while and then deteriorate causing the leaking problem again. The last thing to check is your transmission's dip-stick. Yes, if that's pulled up and not seated fully, one of your fans could be spraying the transmission fluid everywhere. Also note, that there's a "vent" in the transmission's dipstick that can be cleaned with compressed air. The purpose of the dipstick having a vent on it is to allow built up pressures to vent to atmosphere
(like your PCV system does for the Engine).
I hope somewhere above, you'll be able to find the solution to your problem.
The yellow exclamation mark appears when your TPMS, AKA tire pressure monitoring system picks up on a low-pressure tire. It means that your tires aren't inflated to the recommended pressure. A simple fix is to inflate to the required PSI, and if the problem does not go away, drive down to the nearest garage, as you may have punctured tire at your hands.
my 96 caravan is doing the same thing as codsterdad19. i also noticed an oil leak above the starter but cant figure out what could be causing this. please stop my dinging oil alarm.
Hi, I also have a Dodge Grand Caravan 2008 with similar problems. The
windshield wipers would come on for no reason, A/C would cut off and not
come back on, none of the controls would work from the drivers side
door panel, "dinging" noise would come on intermittent, headlights would
flash like they had a mind of their own, dashboard would light up
erracticly, etc.After much searching on the internet, this seems to
be not so uncommon. I brought it in to the dodge dealer where I
purchased the vehicle and about $300 and 3 hours later the tech FINALLY
found the problem! Most of the wiring from the door panel back to the
body are "stranded" wires. These wires are made to be bent, time and
time again, as the drivers door is the most used. But there is a control
module that is also located inside the drivers door and it uses a
"twisted pair" of really small gauge SOLID wire (that goes back to the
onboard computer). If any of you out there have ever used Ethernet wire
you know exactly what I am talking about. These are the same wires down
to the color coding! Guess what happens when you bend a very small
diameter wire over and over and over again? One of the small wires broke
inside the rubber boot between the door and body. The tech told me what
he found and spliced the wires with a 50 cent connector. The guy was
honest and "kudos" to Salsbury Dodge in Baton Rouge. In my opinion this
should have been covered under the warranty because it was clearly a
defect in material and WORKMANSHIP (not to mention just a really DUMB
idea from the designers at Dodge). This $300 fix lasted about 1 1/2
years and the problem came back. This time I fixed it myself with a new
connector and a multimeter. Put the leads of the meter on both ends of
the suspect wire and check for continuity. You will find that one of the
twisted pair will have a break inside the insulation. Cut out the break
and splice with an inline connector and wrap with a small amount of
electrical tape. For my car the break was inside the rubber boot. If you
are not comfortable with taking your door apart, bring it to an honest
mechanic and he should have you in and out in about 3 hours (and
hopefully a LOT less than 300 bucks). Hopes this helps.
