The freezer works fine, but the frige side is not cold at all. the unit is still under warranty, and the service guy replaced the "control board". but that worked for about a week. Everything is almost room temperature in the frige now. The model is a RS265lbbp.Any suggestions? Thanks

Sounds like a too low setting or the compressor shut down.

Good day,
If the machine is under one year old, all working components are under factory warranty. Call for warranty service from selling dealer, or if you moved out of the area, an authorized Whirlpool warranty dealer.

This is caused by a defrost problem, most likely a bad heater($44.66+sh part# 12 under freezer compartment diagram PS2061407 ). If the heater is good ( has continuity) the defrost assy ($66.22+sh part# 13 under controls diagram PS2061226 )will be bad. Go to www.partselect.com and enter your model number. It will bring up diagrams of your unit. This will show you where the parts are located and what they look like. Either one is easy to replace. Once you click on the part you need, it will take you to a sight that gives you the price and also below that it will have where people have changed the part and how to do so. Good luck and have a great day.

Check rear wall of freezer to see if you can feel frost about halfway down. If so you likely have a defrost system problem. Three components involved in defrost system, Heater, defrost thermostat and defrost timer or Defrost control (circuit board).

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Hi Laura,

The repair guy did what any repair guy would have done under a warranty situation such as yours... door gaskets. I presume he explained why he was doing what did ("why's" are important, ya know...). If he didn't, let me run through it real quick, OK?

Warm air holds moisture and cold air doesn't... that it in a nutshell. But what's important to note is that if there is an air leak inside your freezer you'll notice it just as you have, with condensation forming. This tells the repair guy that cold air is escaping and warm air is entering the freezer. The first place to look is the door gasket and that's why he replaced it. But now you know it wasn't the gasket, right?

So the repair guy didn't find the source of the air leak. It happens. The reason is that most "factory" tech's are trained on the fly and have the habit of not looking too deep into a problem 'cause they're warranty guys. They get paid whether or NOT a problem was fixed. See? Independent repair guys like me only get paid WHEN the job is fixed. So there's a GREAT incentive for me to get it right the first time, right? (I'm not "bashing" them. I'm just clarifying that warranty repairs are hit and miss at best.)

The thing you gotta think about is "How many places are there for cold air to escape and warm air to enter?" The answer to that question is "4". Yep. FOUR places that this can happen and each of them have to be inspected for evidence of moisture. They are;

1.) Behind the fridge where the ice maker water tube is inserted through the cabinet and into the freezer.
2.) Behind the fridge where the wire bundle enters the freezer compartment.
3.) Behind the fridge in the compresser compartment where the evaporator drain comes OUT of the freezer compartment.
4.) The door gasket.

Since your unit is still under warranty I certainly wouldn't expect you to chase these down for yourself. You should call GE again and have the repair guy come do this for you (print this out so you will have the above checklist). This is to protect your warranty, by the way. If you (or an appliance repair company NOT authorized to work on it) work on it, you run the risk of voiding the warranty altogether.

There's a product on the market called "PermaGum" (here's a link). It's used to seal air leaks such as this. When you talk to GE, try to insist that the tech have some on his truck when he arrives... I have the feeling that he'll need it because I suspect a leak is occurring in one of the top 3 areas I mentioned above (either that, or he didn't install the door gasket correctly in the first place).

As an aside? Just a tip/hint... I know that your fridge is new and all, but to KEEP the door gaskets like new for (almost) ever, use Vaseline on them. Yep, Vaseline. Open the fridge door, dab your finger into the Vaseline and smear a light (light) coat of it on the door gaskets all the way around. This will do 2 things;
1.) It'll keep the door gaskets from ever drying out.
2.) It'll provide a very good and air-tight seal when the door is closed. (air leak, Laura?)

There ya go! I hope this has helped you in your quest to rid you freezer of pesky condensation. If so, please remember to rate this as "It fixed my problem", OK? After that, you can mix up a Mojito and bask in the knowledge that you are a completely informed consumer when the GE guy gets there to finally fix your fridge.

Take care,
SG

Check the lever somewhere around the inside top of the refrigerator. This lever slides back and forth to control the temperature in the non-frozen compartment.

Defrost heater is open behind back wall. order new heater #wr55x10101 remove 4 screws 2 bottom, 2 top behind light shield, defrost freezer so ice is off of evap, replace heater with new one.

it could be a thermosat

video on troubleshooting
http://gei.portals.streamos.com/cc/channel.php?emcid=1416&empid=4533&packageid=0000

if after you try the things on the video you may have to replace the motherboard. you can reset the frige by unplugin the power and pluging it back in. If you decide not to replace the motherboard as the unit will work fine untill you press the dispencer i reccomend unplugging the dispenser unit at the top of the freezer door so the frige will not accidently shut down just unplug the connector leading down the door. your frige will work fine without this connection just no water or ice at the door. If your frige is still under waranty (1year parts& labor) call them up and they will fix it.
The motherboard on this frige seems to be sensitive to surges and the transformer for the ice/water dispensencer goes bad. repacing the motherboard corrects this problem they cost about $75 to $90 on the appliance websites to install the new one it is very easy and you need to unplug your fridge and pull the metal cover off the back of the unit by removing four screws. the cables are all different size and can not be pluged in wrong the replacement board should come with instructions. to remove the board you may need needle nose pliers to push in the tabbs on the white board standoffs it should take about 10-15 minutes

I have solved this problem by replacing the back board if you have any questions I can help out

It's all in the controls. There is a "flapper" or door between the freezer compartment and the fresh food compartment. Other than the fan not operating, there is nothing else that would affect the temperature. The higher you set your freezer, the warmer the fresh food compartment will be. As long as your freezer is working, and you can hear the fan turn on, it's a control issue.