20 Most Recent Samsung RS265TDRS Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers

AT TIMES The fan usually stops working due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature. May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS . Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit? ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!

Follow through on this for specific cause(s): http://blog.partsdr.com/samsung-blinking-dashline-error-code-list/

could very well be a bad temp sensor. ck here.. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/parts-for-samsung-rs265tdrs-xaa.html you can chat with a tech too. hope this helps.

Your refrigerator is in demo mode. For a detailed description of how to get refrigerator out of demo mode, press the two button on the upper left side of display for 3 to 5 seconds or until the OF dissapears. If your refrigerator does not have a display on the front side, do a search for "how to take samsung refrigerator out of cooling mode/ demo mode" and it should give you several options available for your model of refrigerator. Hope this helps

Get a high power wet/dry shop vacuum cleaner and use the blower side to blow through the vents from freezer to refrigerator. The frost on the "evaporator" acts as an insulator, no matter how slight. You need to do a process of elimination of individual components in the defrost circuit and test for conditions, which I call the three "C's": Circuit Condition, or Component. This tactic can be applied in any electromechanical device. With the Wet/Dry high power vacuum cleaner blower end, use it to defrost the evaporator completely, if you can have someone put a hair dryer or heat gun on the suction side of the wet/dry, it will speed up the process. Afterwards, check that the freezer evaporator fan is running and that all cowlings are installed and clear. Close the freezer and put your hand on the top part of the refrigerator and feel for cool air from the vent. Then open the freezer door and the draft should increase quite a bit, if not, you have a clogged ventilation. Check to see that your defrost kicks in for no less than 10 minutes in a 10 hour window. Usually the defrost timer runs for 6 to 10 hours and a defrost cycle runs for 10 to 30 minutes. Be careful and don't burn yourself because the defrost heater has around 40 ohms of resistance, which equates to around 360 Watts of heat. If a 100 Watt light bulb can burn you, imagine 3.6 times that amount. The defrost timer operates the defrost heater, or the compressor motor and fans, but not both. So, if the fans are not running, the defrost heater should be energized, if the defrost bi-metal thermostat switch is working properly. Said switch should be changed in no more than a 10 year run because they are rated to run 10,000 times, which equates to 9 years 1-1/2 months. It's similar to a vehicles thermostat, if you change the water pump, you need to change the thermostat too because it is a mechanical device working under the laws of thermodynamics, and the laws of physics are not just really good ideas. So, to start off the bat, if you are going to begin to troubleshoot and do your own repairs, start by buying said switch. It costs from around $4 to $75 depending on your manufacturer. Get a similar switch and piggyback it over your existing switch as a trouble shooting tool, over 75% of the chances its that, but always confirm your diagnosis then confirm the bad part with proper tests. After the repair, confirm the repair, never try to second guess yourself because it will bite you. Be aware of the high voltages present, and the sharp fins of the evaporator. If the switch, and/or the heater are good then it mght be your defrost timer. Disconnect the timer and jumper between #4 and #1, that will run the defrost heater if the switch is good. Jumper #4 and #2 will run the compressor motor and fans. Never, ever jumper #4 and #3 because you will experience something very bad, like a loud bright spark arc as it melts your jumper and hopefully trips your house circuit breaker and not electrocute you. Watch several Youtube videos and read blogs on fixing your refrigerator defrost problem and enjoy the experience as it will save you a lot of money from a professional guessing, replacing, hoping and praying that he fixed it, with your nickle.

try going to a samsung service agent and getting the parts most will give advice on how to do the repairs if you want or will make an appointment to come do the fix

Water control valve is defective=> DA97-07827B Water Inlet Valve are you posting the correct model number? RS265TDRS I'm here should you have question, Thanks, Sea Breeze

If the fridge is cool, the defrost timer has failed. If the fridge is warm, the thermostat is usually the culprit.

The crusher is at fault, it needs to be tested.

A COUPLE THINGS U SAY FREEZER IS FINE FRIDGE IS NOT? THE FAN NOISE MAY BE DUE TO ICE BUILD UP DUE TO A DEFECTIVE BAD DEFROST TERMINATOR. WHICH EVENTUALLY WILL BUILD ICE UP IN FREEZER AND FRIDGE? HINDER COLD AIR CIRCULATION. ANOTHER THING TO LOOK AT IS UR FREEZER AND FRIDGE THERMISTORS AND UR COLD CONTROL THERMOSTAT. EVEN UR AIR FLOW DAMPER CONTROL VENT AND KNOB SETTINGS? ARE THEY TO FAR OPEN OR CLOSED? ARE U ABLE TO HEAR THE FAN AND COMPRESSOR RUNNING? ANY CLICKING SOUNDS?

I did a GOOGLE search using your reforge model number. I came up with several sites that have all of the info you need. The best was RC Repair parts. Here you will find all of the repair parts you need with pictures of same. Look it over I used this service for my Refrige a few years back and it was GREAT! also did a repair on my washing machine again a big help and all the parts were listed and available.

The normal setting for freezer and fresh food side is 5. A very common cause of loss of cooling in the fresh food side is the vent are blocked for cool air exchange from the freezer. Find the two vents to and from the freezer to fresh food side and make sure they are not blocked. Most problems can be solved by decluttering freezer and fresh food side. Next check to see if the evaporator fan is running. This fan provides the push for air circulation through the vent dampers in this type of refrigerator. If this does not fix the problem and is still under warranty, call the 800 number and pay the small service fee and get a professional to analyze and determine which part is not working. Hope this helps.

Hold the top two buttons down at the same time. That will reset it

Ours just started this today too, have you found an answer anywhere else yet? It's not listed in the known error codes.

8E = OVER CURRENT ERRORIPM fault signal (this is caused by the overload of the MICOM INTO during motor action). IPM: Integrated power module. The IPM controls the motor. If the fault (low signal) happens to be sensed even once during the washing/rinsing stage, the motor stops immediately. However, during the dehydrating stage the signal is to be sensed, when the number of signals reads more than 6 per 500ms during the Washing or Rinsing cycle action. If the motor stops working, in one direction ten times, "8E" Error is displayed. During dehydrating, when the overload is sensed, the motor stops working at once and then feeds back to the initial stage of the dehydration unbalance sensing. When the feed back has occcurred twice, Error "8E" is displayed during the dehydrating unbalance sensing, No error happens by overload sensing. When it happens at more than 800rpm, the process is stopped compulsorily. Power Switch OFF can clear the overload error.