Ge washer dryer wsm2420

Hello Leslie

I don't know what is the brand of you dryer. I will make you a preference this brand.

In GE dryers, the thermal fuse--sometimes called a safety thermostat--is located behind the drum on the inside of the dryer. To access the thermal fuse you will need to open the dryer from the top. Though it may sound a bit daunting, opening the top of the dryer to reveal its inner workings is surprisingly simple. To open the dryer top you will need a flat-head screwdriver, putty knife or similar tool. Insert the screwdriver or putty knife underneath the dryer's top panel. Slide the putty knife along the bottom of the panel until you locate the two clips that hold it in place. These clips are usually located about four inches in from either side of the top dryer panel. Apply pressure to the clips to release them. Once the clips have been released, lift up the top panel and use the supports to keep it upright. Look inside the dryer, behind the drum, to find what looks like a round metal pan. This metal pan is actually the dryer's heating element housing. The thermal fuse will be located next to the heating element housing. Look for a white strip with two wires connected to it and you've located the thermal fuse in your GE dryer.

Best Regards
Neciforo Llanto

In the Kenmore equivalent, the lint trap is on the back wall of the interior of the dryer. If GE is the same then you'll see two vents at the back inside, one is the intake (where hot air enters), the other is the outtake, which contains a lint trap. You might have mistaken both for nonremovable vents. But one of them is removable. It should have finger holes or something to grab. Just pull it and it will pop out without difficulty. It's probably a two-piece unit (a grate on the dryer side and a screen on the exhaust side, with a space in between for collecting lint), which snaps or slips apart easily, then you can clear the lint, and then snap or slip it back together and just push it back in place in the dryer.

Theres 2 clips at the top that need to be pushed in. Heres a video Just watch the beginning http://appliancehelponline.com/gdryertroubleshootge.html

its clips and very hard to get up but it will if you pull it hard enough

Your center drum bearing part number WE3X75 must need to be replaced. You must get the drum out to replace this dude. Open the door and remove those screws which are holding down the top. Then get the front off. Some machines use an E clip to hold that drum on there and you may have to access a small panel in the rear of that dryer to get that clip off. While you are at it go ahead and clean all the lint out the dryer. Send me the coinage :)



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Drill holes all the way through the drum. Use carrage bolts to reattach the Bearing block through the drum into the block. Use lock washer and or locktite. 

I found the parts manual on line at GE Appliances.

The replacement parts for the top indicated pictured two clips holding the front of the dryer in place.

I tried a narrow screw driver on the clips and that released the top.

With the top off, removing the front panel required removing two screws, lifting the drum and pulling slightly on the front panel.

After removing the wires from the door switch, I was able to find the broken zipper, clean out the fan, remove excess lint and reassemble.

most common cause is the failure, or wear of the rollers at the rear,
the drive belt places a lot of torque on the drum, and it has rollers to support this force, in addition to nylon guides as the front has

good roller

worn roller


most dryers access from the front, the front panel and door come off,
here are generic removal instructions

with dryer unplugged examine lower front panel.
If there are two screws at lower corners

• remove screws
• swing front panel up from bottom
• unhook top clips
• undo door switch wires
• set panel and door aside

If there are no screws

• remove llint screeen from top
• remove 2 screws from under lint screen
• with putty knife or other blunt blade
  push spring clips at front top corners
• tilt top up
• remove 1 screw each side 1/3 way from top of dryer
• tilt front panel down
• undoor door switch wires
• set front panel aside

Common to both

• reach under drum to belt tensioner, pull tensioner to end of spring travel
• unhook belt from motor and tensioner
• withdraw drum forward
• examine rollers felts nylon guides

replace rollers in pairs if worn
replace nylon glides if worn
replace felts if worn, the back one may wear before the front one, if the dryer is the open drum type,

the drum has either worn out its felt(front), a fabric bearing, or the roller(rear) bearings, or both, and dropped enough to make a gap. new rollers are3 about $15 /pair, felts between $13 & $90 depending on model.
Generic replacement is simple, and really while you got it apart, do both, the strain of twisting off axis will make the remaining good end fail shortly
The generic steps may not be correct for the actual dryer model.

Felt seal
for most dryers,
Go buy HiTemperature silicone adhesive (tube)
tools required couple pairs locking pliers/visegrips screwdrivers

Unplug dryer
remove the front cover, either

• couple screws at the bottom and spring clips to pop off with a screw driver OR
• couple of spring clips to hold the top lid on, then screws top and bottom of both sides
  
  examine the case to find the exact mounting

unclip cables from door switch
set front panel aside
unhook drive belt from tensioner pulley
pull drum forward and out

remove old felt
scrape off old adhesive
put adhesive per instructions (some 2 surfaces some 1) on drum/felt
clip felt in place on drum with visegrip at 1 point
stretch felt around drum, gluing and clipping in place with vicegrips as you go
allow glue to set

reassemble in reverse order


Roller bearings
for most dryers,
tools required needle pliers/visegrips screwdrivers

Unplug dryer
remove the front cover, either

• couple screws at the bottom and spring clips to pop off with a screw driver OR
• couple of spring clips to hold the top lid on, then screws top and bottom of both sides
  
  examine the case to find the exact mounting

unclip cables from door switch
set front panel aside
unhook drive belt from tensioner pulley
pull drum forward and out

remove old rollers:

• pry triangular circlip from axle post
• discard circlip
• remove and discard roller
• install new roller
• install new circlip
  ALWAYS replace rollers in pairs
  
  reassemble in reverse order

wow took longer to type than it actually takes to do it

with the agitator out look near the bottom for a large flat nut with notches in it. a correct spanner wrench will engage this notched nut so you can unscrew it and the tub should come right out.