Can you please give us instructions on how to reset and it holds

SOURCE: Maytag refrigerator cooling probelm

Defrost the fridge, take everything out of freezer and turn off for at least a day, check the drain is clear after defrosted and try again, if it happens again you may need a new defrost heater of timer.

SOURCE: Maytag freezer & refrigerator not coold enough

It's not cool If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.

First, answer these questions:

• Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”



• Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.

Next, see if the compressor motor is running

The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.

If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:

• The compressor



• The Thermostat



• The overload, relay, or capacitor



• The defrost timer



• The condenser fan motor

Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt. 

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

• The defrost timer



• The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)



• The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem 

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. I feel heat/warmth on the front edge of my refrigerator....why?
 
Older refrigerators had electric heaters on the edges of the refrigerator cabinet to help prevent moisture from building up, especially in the hot/hazy weather in the summer time. These electric heaters usually had a switch where you could turn them on or off...had words like..."switch here to prevent moisture"...switch here in damp weather".... in the picture it is in the top left of the control assembly.
Then along came the energy crunch. The manufactures stopped using the electric heaters and started running a pass of the hot condenser tubing on the edges of the cabinet where the electric heaters use to be. This is often called ayoder loop tube SxS version and the yoder loop tube Top freezer version. This has now replaced the electric heaters. If you feel heat/hot around the door opening of your refrigerator you should....
- clean the condenser coils as a dirty condenser can make the tubing hotter than normal
- check/clean & replace if necessary the condenser cooling fan   ( # F ) motor, if the condenser fan motor is slow or has quit the yoder loop pass will get very warm/hot to the touch
- If the condenser coils are clean and the condenser fan motor is running ok, check the fresh food and freezer section temperatures...if the refrigerator is not operating well and the temps inside are warming up, you could feel more heat/warmth than normal

SOURCE: I have a maytag side by side refrigerator which

Hi, when you plug this refridgerator back in leave it for a few days and if you have the same problem it's going to be the defrost system. I will also assume you have the ability to repair this yourself. This is going to be one of three problems with your refridgerator, 1st thing to do is remove shelfs and panel in the back of the freezer...you should see ice build up on the evaporator...don't worry get a hair dryer and melt the ice. Next locate the wires for the heater...using a multi meter test the heater for condinuity...if the heater is bad replace it, If the heater is good replace the defrost thermostat..the stat normally is a barrel looking part clipped onto the evaporator pipe. The last possible problem could be the evaporator fan, have you heard the fan running in the past few hours?..if you are not sure pull the panel out to where you can see fan and watch it over an hour to see if it turns. I have included links with pictures of what the parts you need to check are: http://romulusappliance.com/manufacturers/maytag/refrigerators/575432.JPG defrost stat http://www.hotekalliance.com/UploadFiles/2008627111553382.jpg heaters http://www.applianceblog.com/archives/EvapMotor1018185.jpg evap fan. Hope this helps. If you have any other questions please feel free to comment again. If you decide to get a repair guy in should not cost you any more then $120 - $200 depending on make/model/problem Good luck! P.s Please don't forget to rate my solution Thanks! Mike

SOURCE: MZD 2766GE refrigerator: freezer side is cold but refrigerator side gradually warms after a week and then freezer side warms.

MZD 2766GESide by Wide Unit problems

Be sure if you get into the refrigerator disconnect the power!

I had the same problem and I knew it was the refrigerator. You have to order the control board that controls the fan assy in the freezer. It has an inherent problem with others I see. But don't attempt to change it yourself. There is tricks to it and if you don't do it right you will break more things. I saw the tech broke some tabs and it is stupid way to design something unless you plan to get more business this method.

The control board sits in front of the water filter in the refrigerator. Inside the Temperature control housing cover.

Additionally, you have to take all the frozen food out and defrost manually the fan area and the subsequent ducts to clear it all out. Otherwise, you will have the same problem again. If it breaks and it will. It causes the ice to build up to point you will not get fan movement or airflow. This flow keeps the Icebox from freezing up and causes the air to flow to the refrigerator side.
They make these things so it is harder for DIY to do it.
But they are really simple! At least most of it.
Contrary to popular belief Ice is a good insulator. Once it builds up, no heat transfer takes place because of the inefficiencies it blocks the airflow and etc.

It is my opinion and I stand by it.

I bought many Maytag items and it suppose to have a great reputation. I have now started to look at other providers.

I find these companies are getting cheaper and instead the quality is going down.

So buyer beware not all have across the board quality it depends on the series, the price and the manufacturer.

Oh well another lesson learned.

Here is another problem when using a ice maker unit do not always use the ice crusher. I found that out. The motor that drives the ice crusher is matted with metal to plastic then metal again in the Ice Holder unit.
Guess what, it jams sometimes and it puts great pressure on the ice maker holder unit.

Where the metal meets the plastic is the weakness. It breaks because of in my opinion weak design
The two plastic nibs meeting with the metal motor drive square "U" connector breaks the plastic and eventually you have to get the plastic replaced. I think if I have to order that little part will end up buying the whole Ice holder assembly.
One direction for crushed ice the other direction it turns for solid ice cubes.

I guess I will use the solid Ice cube method until I figure what to do.

Any parts for it replacing the plastic hookup out there?

Good Luck!

SOURCE: Freezer cold- Fridge not. Ice build up on freezer

I really believe your adaptive defrost located inside the fresh food compartment and inside the control panel is defective. It puts your refrigerator on a timely defrost and if defective this problem you listed in your post happens. Yes we may need to also check the defrost heater and defrost thermostat but with my experience with that type of Adaptive Defrost Control is famous for its failure.
ADAPTIVE DEFROST CONTROL Part Number 61005988 You can find it located on two of my websites. Some models like yours came with a Defrost Timer. We will need just look inside the control panel and see for sure. Here is a photo of the Adaptive defrost. If you should need to contact me please send an email or try to answer here. Problem is I don't get notifications when someone comments. [email protected]
Please rate and ask me as much as you like. Thank You, Sea Breeze
Part 61005988

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