Freezer door gasket is drooping at bottom. Is it a glue in place or what/ Will not stay in little channel. Did not see any adjustment screws.

The top to bottom alignment is done by moving the hinges up/down. On many models there may also be plastic spacers on the hinge pins you can use to adjust the height.The closing of the door so it shuts properly and is flush on all 4 sides is done by adjusting the screws that hold the door gasket in place. If you've never done it before it can be a real pain to get it right. Make small adjustments to the screws and if need be grab the door at the center top and center bottom and give it a small tug in opposite directions to get it straight, if you have to. To test if its closing properly, look at the edge of the gasket all around it should be the same distance from the body of the fridge, use a mirror to see the bottom. To test if its sealing properly use a dollar bill. Close the bill in between the gasket and the door in areas all around the door, When you pull on the bill you should feel resistance, if the bill is not held in or pulls out easily the gasket is not sealing properly at that location, you need to adjust the screws to get it aligned better.

Have a look at the door gasket. It may have perished or stretched causing the door to be forced open. especially around the bottom door hinge area. If its stretched, try and pull or slide the gasket back to its proper position. try a very little smear of rubber lube grease down the gasket on the hinge side of the door, it helps the gasket slide past the door frame when you close the door.

Hello,

Sometimes, just smearing vaseline all around your gasket on your door will help to seal it. We do this as the gasket dries out a little. Also, you might check down at the bottom where the door washers, etc. are, and see if that is part of the problem. I have had both of these problems and this seems to have taken care of it.
Also note that

A huge block of ice has built up behind the back panel. This has made the back panel expand, thus making the drawers jut out too far. Like me, you may not think ice build up is the cause, since you cannot see any ice.

Action: Defrost freezer. Yes, I know its frost free, but wait an see! Take out al drawers, empty fridge and freezer and defrost overnight with doors open. The next morning, unscrew the back panel of the freezer. You will see 4 screws, 2 at the top, 2 at the bottom. These are not normal screws and are in an awkward postion at the top. Use pliers to grip and unscrew. Slide the panel forward and out. There! A massive block of ice! YOu will also see a hole at the bottom. SO that this didn't get blocked with all the water, I plugged the hole up using a ball of tissue wrapped in some plastic from a plastic bag (clingfilm would also do the trick). Use a hairdryer to melt the ice. Do not chip away at the ice as this might do damage. It took mine about 20 minutes to melt until a large block could be safely removed. Once you have dried the inside, unblock hole and screw panel back on. The drawers should now fit and the door close. I found I still needed to give my door a little help with closing it, but it did close and seal fully. All you have to do now is turn the fridge freezer back on.
But if the door gasket is bad you can change for a new , the follow is a guideline for you to replace
There are screws under the fold of the freezer door gasket that holds the brace for the gasket in place. Lift the rubber gasket to expose the screw head, one section at a time. Just loosen the screw, and do not take it completely out.
Step 2
As you loosen the screws, one section at a time, carefully remove the old gasket. At the same time, fit the new gasket into the groove. Make sure your new gasket is lined up properly.
Step 3
Continue around the freezer door, unloosening the screw, taking out the old gasket and fitting the new one in.
Step 4
Tighten the screws into place. This may have to be done once the entire gasket is fitted into place.
Step 5
Keep the gasket clean to last longer.
Check the seal by closing the door. You should have a nice, tight seal.
Hope this helps

Hello,

This is the step you will use to repair your ice door seal that is loose.

There are screws under the fold of the freezer door gasket that holds the brace for the gasket in place. Lift the rubber gasket to expose the screw head, one section at a time. Just loosen the screw, and do not take it completely out.

As you loosen the screws, one section at a time, carefully remove the old gasket. At the same time, fit the new gasket into the groove. Make sure your new gasket is lined up properly.

Continue around the freezer door, unloosening the screw, taking out the old gasket and fitting the new one in.

Tighten the screws into place. This may have to be done once the entire gasket is fitted into place.

Check the seal by closing the door. You should have a nice, tight seal.

Good luck.

Step 4 Tighten the screws into place. This may have to be done once the entire gasket is fitted into place.

Read more: How to Fix a Freezer Door Seal | eHow.co.uk http://www.ehow.co.uk/how_4855248_fix-freezer-door-seal.html#ixzz0rY7rn3O8

Step 3 Continue around the freezer door, unloosening the screw, taking out the old gasket and fitting the new one in.

Step 4 Tighten the screws into place. This may have to be done once the entire gasket is fitted into place.

Read more: How to Fix a Freezer Door Seal | eHow.co.uk http://www.ehow.co.uk/how_4855248_fix-freezer-door-seal.html#ixzz0rY7gYaZ2

Step 2 As you loosen the screws, one section at a time, carefully remove the old gasket. At the same time, fit the new gasket into the groove. Make sure your new gasket is lined up properly.

Step 3 Continue around the freezer door, unloosening the screw, taking out the old gasket and fitting the new one in.

Step 4 Tighten the screws into place. This may have to be done once the entire gasket is fitted into place.

Step 5 jQuery(document).ready(function(){ jQuery('#jsArticleStep5 span.image a:first').attr('href','http://i.ehow.com/images/a04/k5/eg/fix-freezer-door-seal-1.5-800X800.jpg'); }); Keep the gasket clean to last longer. Check the seal by closing the door. You should have a nice, tight seal.

Read more: How to Fix a Freezer Door Seal | eHow.co.uk http://www.ehow.co.uk/how_4855248_fix-freezer-door-seal.html#ixzz0rY7JfY8i

check gromets on hinges for wear. check weight on doors is it causing the door to droop? are the gaskets cracked? more information is needed if possible.

u could always set the handle in place where it needs to be and use caulk or super glue to go around the handle and that should help it stay in place if that doesnt work the website www.amana.com to see if it has warranty for the broken handle good luck

Replace a door gasket on a refrigerator....



Replace a door gasket on a refrigerator: The first thing to do when changing a door gasket is to check and see if you have the proper part before taking the old gasket off. Hold the new gasket up to the fridge door to make sure the gasket is the same size as the old one. Next step is to remove the wrinkles in the gasket caused by folding for shipping. Instructions with the gaskets say to soak the gasket in hot water. Another way is to use a hair dryer to heat the gasket and remove the wrinkles. Be careful not to burn the gasket with the hair dryer. Almost all gaskets in use today are magnetic. I am placing instructions here for the most common one. They have strips of magnetized material inside the gasket material to adhere to the cabinet when the door is closed. Therefore there is sometimes no up or down on the gasket. Some fridge's have magnets on only 3 sides and the side without a magnet is the hinge side gasket. But to be safe, check this before installing. You will certainly want to check for this on older refrigerators that have magnetic door latches. Some of these have no magnets on the latch side of the gasket. There are about three different ways of attaching gaskets. All will be addressed on this page. Remove the food from the shelves on the door. Loosen the screws that hold the metal strips that keep gasket in place on the top half of the door. Back the screws out about 1/4 inch. The gasket has a lip on it that seats in a groove under the top part of the metal strip. Pull the old gasket off. Work the groove on back side of the new gasket under the cutout in the metal strips that holds it on the door liner. Straighten and get good install before tightening screws. Run screws back up against the metal holding strip snugly, not fully tight. Go to the bottom and do the bottom half. By doing the top half first and tightening, then doing the bottom half, you will minimize any warping of the door. If there is warping of the door, we have not yet fully tightened the screws. so you can realign the door easily and then tighten the screws. Check the alignment of the door and be sure the gasket is sealing properly before fully tightening the screws. If the door is warped, (see picture) simply warp it back to a sealing position, then tighten the screws. There are instances where the gasket is too tight on the hinge side, and you may have to shim the door hinges out from the cabinet to keep the gasket from scrubbing when closing. .also use a little petroleum jelly on the gasket on the hinge side will allow the gasket to "settle" better. The hinge side must slide along the cabinet edge while the other 3 sides just close up against the cabinet. The jelly will allow the gasket to rub smoothly and also prevent squeaking noises. Maintenance of the gasket is important also. It should be cleaned on a regular basis. Clean the gasket and the mating cabinet surface with warm soapy water, rinse clean and dry it good. Putting a little baby powder on the sides (except the hinge side because we put the jelly there) will prevent the gasket from sticking and tearing. The heaters in the refrigerator used to keep moisture from forming on the cabinet attracts airborne materials and make the gasket sealing surfaces sticky. The powder will help stop this. Probably 75% of the fridge's made a few years ago use this edge under the metal track....some American made fridge's use the U shaped metal strip and the gasket pushes into the metal strip, (see a picture) the screws that hold this metal strip do not have to be removed or loosened. A lot of fridge's also use the metal strips with out the edge. Some Maytag's and Woods come to mind. The screws go through the metal strip and the gasket as well. The screws have to be removed completely to replace the gasket.
Gasket sheet to assist you in replacing a common door gasket.






Freezer door pops open when I shut the fresh food door:
This happens because the refrigerators of today are air tight, the fresh food door pushes the air into the cabinet as it closes and the air has no place to go but up the air vent into the freezer and "pops" open the freezer door. First thing is make sure the freezer door is capable of closing properly and is not rubbing or catching anywhere. I sometimes add a washer or 2 to the center hinge under the freezer door so it doesn't rub anything. Put a little Vaseline ( or food grade silicone lubricant ) on the hinge side of the seal. I then raise the front of the refrigerator so that the front of the refrigerator is a little higher than the back of the refrigerator. Never level a fridge with a level. Once you have the door closing properly and front slightly higher than the back...let the fresh food door close from 90 degrees on it's own and the freezer door may "pop" open a little but will close again on it's own...and stay closed once all is set up properly. We see this more often now and have no trouble with the door staying open again after setting up the refrigerator properly.
Let me know if this helps, Thanks, Sea Breeze

Below is instructions on how to make sure doors open and close properly. Ignore the popping open part if this is not happening for you.

Replace a door gasket on a refrigerator....



Replace a door gasket on a refrigerator: The first thing to do when changing a door gasket is to check and see if you have the proper part before taking the old gasket off. Hold the new gasket up to the fridge door to make sure the gasket is the same size as the old one. Next step is to remove the wrinkles in the gasket caused by folding for shipping. Instructions with the gaskets say to soak the gasket in hot water. Another way is to use a hair dryer to heat the gasket and remove the wrinkles. Be careful not to burn the gasket with the hair dryer. Almost all gaskets in use today are magnetic. I am placing instructions here for the most common one. They have strips of magnetized material inside the gasket material to adhere to the cabinet when the door is closed. Therefore there is sometimes no up or down on the gasket. Some fridge's have magnets on only 3 sides and the side without a magnet is the hinge side gasket. But to be safe, check this before installing. You will certainly want to check for this on older refrigerators that have magnetic door latches. Some of these have no magnets on the latch side of the gasket. There are about three different ways of attaching gaskets. All will be addressed on this page. Remove the food from the shelves on the door. Loosen the screws that hold the metal strips that keep gasket in place on the top half of the door. Back the screws out about 1/4 inch. The gasket has a lip on it that seats in a groove under the top part of the metal strip. Pull the old gasket off. Work the groove on back side of the new gasket under the cutout in the metal strips that holds it on the door liner. Straighten and get good install before tightening screws. Run screws back up against the metal holding strip snugly, not fully tight. Go to the bottom and do the bottom half. By doing the top half first and tightening, then doing the bottom half, you will minimize any warping of the door. If there is warping of the door, we have not yet fully tightened the screws. so you can realign the door easily and then tighten the screws. Check the alignment of the door and be sure the gasket is sealing properly before fully tightening the screws. If the door is warped, (see picture) simply warp it back to a sealing position, then tighten the screws. There are instances where the gasket is too tight on the hinge side, and you may have to shim the door hinges out from the cabinet to keep the gasket from scrubbing when closing. .also use a little petroleum jelly on the gasket on the hinge side will allow the gasket to "settle" better. The hinge side must slide along the cabinet edge while the other 3 sides just close up against the cabinet. The jelly will allow the gasket to rub smoothly and also prevent squeaking noises. Maintenance of the gasket is important also. It should be cleaned on a regular basis. Clean the gasket and the mating cabinet surface with warm soapy water, rinse clean and dry it good. Putting a little baby powder on the sides (except the hinge side because we put the jelly there) will prevent the gasket from sticking and tearing. The heaters in the refrigerator used to keep moisture from forming on the cabinet attracts airborne materials and make the gasket sealing surfaces sticky. The powder will help stop this. Probably 75% of the fridge's made a few years ago use this edge under the metal track....some American made fridge's use the U shaped metal strip and the gasket pushes into the metal strip, (see a picture) the screws that hold this metal strip do not have to be removed or loosened. A lot of fridge's also use the metal strips with out the edge. Some Maytag's and Woods come to mind. The screws go through the metal strip and the gasket as well. The screws have to be removed completely to replace the gasket.
Gasket sheet to assist you in replacing a common door gasket.






Freezer door pops open when I shut the fresh food door:
This happens because the refrigerators of today are air tight, the fresh food door pushes the air into the cabinet as it closes and the air has no place to go but up the air vent into the freezer and "pops" open the freezer door. First thing is make sure the freezer door is capable of closing properly and is not rubbing or catching anywhere. I sometimes add a washer or 2 to the center hinge under the freezer door so it doesn't rub anything. Put a little Vaseline ( or food grade silicone lubricant ) on the hinge side of the seal. I then raise the front of the refrigerator so that the front of the refrigerator is a little higher than the back of the refrigerator. Never level a fridge with a level. Once you have the door closing properly and front slightly higher than the back...let the fresh food door close from 90 degrees on it's own and the freezer door may "pop" open a little but will close again on it's own...and stay closed once all is set up properly. We see this more often now and have no trouble with the door staying open again after setting up the refrigerator properly.
Let me know if this helps, Thanks, Sea Breeze

Replace a door gasket on a refrigerator....



Replace a door gasket on a refrigerator: The first thing to do when changing a door gasket is to check and see if you have the proper part before taking the old gasket off. Hold the new gasket up to the fridge door to make sure the gasket is the same size as the old one. Next step is to remove the wrinkles in the gasket caused by folding for shipping. Instructions with the gaskets say to soak the gasket in hot water. Another way is to use a hair dryer to heat the gasket and remove the wrinkles. Be careful not to burn the gasket with the hair dryer. Almost all gaskets in use today are magnetic. I am placing instructions here for the most common one. They have strips of magnetized material inside the gasket material to adhere to the cabinet when the door is closed. Therefore there is sometimes no up or down on the gasket. Some fridge's have magnets on only 3 sides and the side without a magnet is the hinge side gasket. But to be safe, check this before installing. You will certainly want to check for this on older refrigerators that have magnetic door latches. Some of these have no magnets on the latch side of the gasket. There are about three different ways of attaching gaskets. All will be addressed on this page. Remove the food from the shelves on the door. Loosen the screws that hold the metal strips that keep gasket in place on the top half of the door. Back the screws out about 1/4 inch. The gasket has a lip on it that seats in a groove under the top part of the metal strip. Pull the old gasket off. Work the groove on back side of the new gasket under the cutout in the metal strips that holds it on the door liner. Straighten and get good install before tightening screws. Run screws back up against the metal holding strip snugly, not fully tight. Go to the bottom and do the bottom half. By doing the top half first and tightening, then doing the bottom half, you will minimize any warping of the door. If there is warping of the door, we have not yet fully tightened the screws. so you can realign the door easily and then tighten the screws. Check the alignment of the door and be sure the gasket is sealing properly before fully tightening the screws. If the door is warped, (see picture) simply warp it back to a sealing position, then tighten the screws. There are instances where the gasket is too tight on the hinge side, and you may have to shim the door hinges out from the cabinet to keep the gasket from scrubbing when closing. .also use a little petroleum jelly on the gasket on the hinge side will allow the gasket to "settle" better. The hinge side must slide along the cabinet edge while the other 3 sides just close up against the cabinet. The jelly will allow the gasket to rub smoothly and also prevent squeaking noises. Maintenance of the gasket is important also. It should be cleaned on a regular basis. Clean the gasket and the mating cabinet surface with warm soapy water, rinse clean and dry it good. Putting a little baby powder on the sides (except the hinge side because we put the jelly there) will prevent the gasket from sticking and tearing. The heaters in the refrigerator used to keep moisture from forming on the cabinet attracts airborne materials and make the gasket sealing surfaces sticky. The powder will help stop this. Probably 75% of the fridge's made a few years ago use this edge under the metal track....some American made fridge's use the U shaped metal strip and the gasket pushes into the metal strip, (see a picture) the screws that hold this metal strip do not have to be removed or loosened. A lot of fridge's also use the metal strips with out the edge. Some Maytag's and Woods come to mind. The screws go through the metal strip and the gasket as well. The screws have to be removed completely to replace the gasket.
Gasket sheet to assist you in replacing a common door gasket.






Freezer door pops open when I shut the fresh food door:
This happens because the refrigerators of today are air tight, the fresh food door pushes the air into the cabinet as it closes and the air has no place to go but up the air vent into the freezer and "pops" open the freezer door. First thing is make sure the freezer door is capable of closing properly and is not rubbing or catching anywhere. I sometimes add a washer or 2 to the center hinge under the freezer door so it doesn't rub anything. Put a little Vaseline ( or food grade silicone lubricant ) on the hinge side of the seal. I then raise the front of the refrigerator so that the front of the refrigerator is a little higher than the back of the refrigerator. Never level a fridge with a level. Once you have the door closing properly and front slightly higher than the back...let the fresh food door close from 90 degrees on it's own and the freezer door may "pop" open a little but will close again on it's own...and stay closed once all is set up properly. We see this more often now and have no trouble with the door staying open again after setting up the refrigerator properly.

I hope this helps, and if you need more information On solutions just let me know, Thanks Sea Breeze

Ya hit it right on the head. Sounds like a classic "pulling in moisture" problem. See if you can seal that air leak any way you can. That moisture can freeze up air channels and block the refer compartment from getting cool air from the freezer compartment eventually.