7 terminal ignition switch wiring diagram

Identify Components: Before starting, make sure you have the ignition switch and necessary wiring harness.

Disconnect Battery: Ensure the battery is disconnected to prevent any electrical accidents.

Locate Ignition Switch Wiring Diagram: Obtain a wiring diagram for the ignition switch and the Caterpillar 3116 engine. This will help you identify the correct wires to connect.

Mount Ignition Switch: Mount the ignition switch in a convenient and secure location within the vehicle.

Connect Wires: Using the wiring diagram, connect the wires from the ignition switch to the corresponding terminals on the Caterpillar 3116 engine. Typically, the ignition switch will have terminals labeled for various functions such as ignition, accessory, starter, and battery.

Test Connections: Once the wiring is completed, double-check all connections to ensure they are secure and correctly wired.

Reconnect Battery: Reconnect the vehicle's battery.

Test Ignition: Turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position and verify that electrical components such as lights, gauges, and accessories are functioning properly.

Start Engine: Attempt to start the engine and ensure that the starter engages and the engine cranks properly.

Final Checks: After successful installation, perform a final check of all connections and ensure that there are no loose wires or potential electrical hazards.

1. Connect the distributor's B+ (battery) terminal to a switched 12-volt source, such as the ignition switch.

2. Connect the distributor's tach terminal to the tachometer signal wire, if you have a tachometer.

3. Connect the distributor's ground wire to a good engine ground.

4. Connect the distributor's #1 spark plug wire to the #1 spark plug on the engine. The #1 spark plug is usually located on the driver's side front cylinder.

5. Connect the remaining spark plug wires in firing order sequence to the distributor cap terminals. The firing order for a Buick 455 engine is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.

6. Install the distributor cap and rotor.

Here is a possible wiring diagram for the voltmeter on a 1996 Peterbilt 379 with a C15 engine:

1. The voltmeter gets power from the battery through a 5A fuse (F2) and a 10A circuit breaker (CB7).
2. The voltmeter is grounded through a ground wire (GND) connected to the chassis.
3. The voltmeter receives the signal from the alternator through a wire (ALT) connected to the alternator "sense" terminal.
4. The voltmeter also receives a signal from the ignition switch through a wire (IGN) connected to the ignition switch "ACC" terminal.

Here is a possible wiring diagram based on this description:
Battery positive (+) ---[F2]---[CB7]--- Voltmeter (+) ' ' Battery ground (-) -------------[GND]--- Voltmeter (-) ' ' Alternator "sense" terminal ---[ALT]--- Voltmeter signal input ' ' Ignition switch "ACC" terminal ---[IGN]--- Voltmeter signal input
Note: This is just a possible wiring diagram and may not reflect the exact wiring configuration in your specific vehicle. It is always recommended to consult the wiring diagram provided in the vehicle's service manual or consult a qualified mechanic or electrician for assistance.

A single pole push button would tie the fused battery feed at the ignition switch B terminal (red/white wire) to the ignition switch S terminal (orange wire).

This provides the same function as turning ignition switch to the start position with all safeties remaining functional. For engine run the ignition switch must be in run position. Push and hold push button until engine run. Turn ignition switch to off position to kill engine.

See link below for wiring diagram located in parts section of manual.

https://www.manualslib.com/products/Troy-Bilt-Ltx-1842-2923621.html

Black and red are pretty standard for negative & positive battery terminals.
There is likely a model number (pic isn't good enough to see the finer print) on the label but the larger numerals are probably serial numbers and without the model number, you may have a problem finding the exact installation info you want.

The link below has illustrations for a different model but manufacturers will generally stick with a wiring code to make installation and even production simpler:

http://www.mygen.com/users/dbruce/myz31/Jacobs%20Ultra%20Team%20Installation%20Instructions.pdf

That company does not have the web 'presence' they should have by now.

As far as the terminal board (terminal block, terminal plate) , I assume you mean something like this:

http://img.jpcycles.com/zoom/382-054_A.jpg

You may or may not be using all of the connections (they come in different standard lengths, and might have more connections than you need).

Now, I can't remember which wiring diagram I sent, so I'm starting over with this:

http://shovelhead.us/specs/wire/1976_FL_FLH.gif

The lower diagram is actually an continuation (to the right) of the upper diagram.

On the upper diagram, item #1 (to the right of the headlight, with little spots inside of it numbered 1 - 11) is the FRONT TERMINAL BOARD.

On the lower diagram, items # 17 - 20 comprise the REAR TERMINAL BOARD.

These show how many wires go to each terminal connection (example, terminal #3 in FRONT TERMINAL BOARD shows 5 wires connecting to that one terminal, #s 9 & 11 are not used).

Now your wire colors MIGHT not be stock.

In which case a multimeter would help you chase the wiring:

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html

Also, do you have a Fat Bob tank center dash ignition switch?

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTA5MVgxMjI2/$(KGrHqZHJDME63ZMWiUbBO3tGwQzH!~~60_35.JPG

Or a key switch mounted somewhere else?

http://demonscy.ipower.com/i_pics/ignition_17-124_1.jpg

If the dash switch, this might help:

http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/931/dashswitchwiringdiagram.png

If a key switch, three wires would be:
1 - hot lead coming INTO switch
2 - lead going to ignition, brake light, instrumentation (for running without lights)
3 - lead going to lights (headlight, taillight) for ignition AND lights.

Hopefully, this will start you off.

Fire back with any questions

Trying to upgrade this to a rainbird. The black is line 1 and 2, I'm not positive about what happens next.

Hello! Disconnect +battery cable...Remove tilt lever...Remove 3 Torx column cover attaching screws...Then the upper and lower column column covers...Using a Torx with a security tip (also called tamper proof tip) #440-tx20H... Remove 3 ignition switch mounting screws...Carefully pull switch away from column...Release 2 connector locks on 7 terminal wiring connector...Then disconnect from ignition switch...Release connection lock on 4 terminal connector...Then disconnect from ignition switch.

Guru..................saailer


I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

GO TO PARTSTREE.COM. PUT IN YOUR MAKE AND MODEL# THIS WILL PROBABLY BE WHAT YOUR LOOKING FOR HOPE THIS HELPED

Please rate me solved...thanks!
DTC P1259: VTEC SYSTEM MALFUNCTION
1. Perform PCM reset procedure. See SELF-DIAGNOSTICS - INTRODUCTION article. Start engine
and run at 3000 RPM with no loads and transmission in Park or Neutral until radiator fan comes on. Road
test vehicle. Accelerate in 1st gear to an engine speed over 4000 RPM and hold that engine speed for at
least 2 seconds. If DTC P1259 is not indicated during first road test, repeat road test 2 more times. If DTC
P1259 is indicated, go to next step. If DTC P1259 is not indicated, problem is intermittent. System is
okay at this time. Check for poor connections or loose wires at VTEC solenoid valve connector and PCM.
See ENGINE PERFORMANCE WIRING DIAGRAMS article. Repair as necessary.
2. Turn ignition off. Disconnect VTEC pressure switch 2-pin connector. Check for continuity between
VTEC pressure switch terminals. If continuity exists, go to next step. If continuity does not exist, replace
VTEC pressure switch.
3. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between ground and VTEC pressure switch harness connector terminal
No. 2 (Blue/Black wire). If about 12 volts exist, go to next step. If about 12 volts do not exist, check for
an open or short in Blue/Black wire between VTEC pressure switch and PCM 31-pin connector "C"
terminal No. 10. Repair as necessary. If wire is okay, substitute a known-good PCM and recheck. See
SUBSTITUTING PCM in SELF-DIAGNOSTICS - INTRODUCTION article. If symptom or problem
goes away, replace original PCM.
4. Measure voltage between VTEC pressure switch harness connector terminals. If battery voltage exists, go
to next step. If battery voltage does not exist, repair open in Brown/Black wire between VTEC pressure
switch and ground connector located on left side of engine, under throttle plate, between end of radiator
hose and cooling fan switch. See ENGINE PERFORMANCE WIRING DIAGRAMS article. If wire is
okay , substitute a known-good PCM and recheck. See SUBSTITUTING PCM in SELFDIAGNOSTICS
- INTRODUCTION article. If symptom or problem goes away, replace original PCM.
5. Turn ignition off. Disconnect VTEC solenoid valve connector. Measure resistance between ground and
VTEC solenoid valve connector. See ENGINE PERFORMANCE WIRING DIAGRAMS article. If
resistance is 14-30 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is not 14-30 ohms, replace VTEC solenoid valve.
6. Remove VTEC pressure switch and install Pressure Gauge Adaptor (07NAJ-P07010A) and A/T Low
Pressure Gauge (07406-0070300). Reinstall VTEC pressure switch into adaptor. Connect tachometer.
Start engine and with no loads and transmission in Park or Neutral until radiator fan comes on. Because
engine is running with no load, oil pressure must be checked within one minute. Check oil pressure at
engine speeds of 1000, 2000 and 3000 RPM. If oil pressure is less than 7 psi (48 kPa), go to next step. If
oil pressure is 7 psi (48 kPa) or more, check VTEC solenoid valve. See SYSTEM & COMPONENT
TESTING article.
7. Turn ignition off. Disconnect VTEC solenoid valve connector. Connect a fused jumper wire between
battery voltage and VTEC solenoid valve connector. Start engine and check oil pressure at 3000 RPM. If
oil pressure is more than 57 psi (393 kPa), go to next step. If oil pressure is 57 psi (393 kPa) or less,
check VTEC solenoid valve. See SYSTEM & COMPONENT TESTING article.
8. Ensure jumper wire is still connected to VTEC solenoid valve connector. Start engine and allow it to idle.
Set engine speed to more than 4000 RPM and measure voltage between ground and PCM 31-pin
connector "C" terminal No. 10 (Blue/Black wire). See ENGINE PERFORMANCE WIRING
DIAGRAMS article. If battery voltage exists, go to next step. If battery voltage does not exist, replace
VTEC pressure switch.
9. Turn ignition off and disconnect jumper wire. Check for continuity between VTEC solenoid valve
harness connector and PCM 25-pin connector "B" terminal No. 12 (Green/Yellow wire). See Fig. 2 . See
ENGINE PERFORMANCE WIRING DIAGRAMS article. If continuity exists, go to next step. If
continuity does not exist, repair open in Green/Yellow wire between VTEC solenoid valve connector and
PCM 25-pin connector "B" terminal No. 12.
10. Check for continuity between ground and VTEC solenoid valve connector. See ENGINE
PERFORMANCE WIRING DIAGRAMS article. If continuity exists, repair short in Green/Yellow
wire between VTEC solenoid valve connector and PCM 25-pin connector "B" terminal No. 12. If
continuity does not exist, substitute a known-good PCM and recheck. See SUBSTITUTING PCM in
SELF-DIAGNOSTICS - INTRODUCTION article. If symptom or problem goes away, replace original
PCM