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Kelly Wazney Posted on Jun 05, 2019
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Johnson 2004 60hp 4 stroke efi idles properly but as soon as you put it in gear it stalls. When it stalls you have to wait 5 seconds before it starts easily again and Idles properly.

  • Gary F
    Gary F Jun 10, 2019

    Did you let it warm up?

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2 Answers

Robert Little

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  • Contributor 6 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 11, 2019
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Overtime the diaphragm that's made of rubber or leather that's in the fuel pump ,it will dry out loosing its flexibility and will not pump fuel. When this happens your type of problem can emerge. This is a very likely problem as well as could be a stopped up fuel filter or dirty fuel. Install a fuel pump rebuild kit as well as a new filter making sure the fuel lines are in good shape. Don't forget checking or replacing the primer bulb with check valve . Changing all this will usually be less than $100.00 doing the work yourself.

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  • Boating Master 1,713 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 10, 2019
jws1013
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Sounds to me you have a restriction in the fuel line somewhere. Check the fuel filter. Seems it's not getting enough gas.

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 38 Answers
  • Posted on May 16, 2008

SOURCE: stalls when put into gear

Its possible it could be other things causing the problem, but seeing as you've checked most of the likely causes, it is most likely your Torque-Converter. The lockup clutch in your Stator-Fan located inside the Torque-Converter could be siezed, causing the car to stall.

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Gary Loney

  • 122 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 30, 2009

SOURCE: 04 Saturn stalling on take off and stops.

Pour the fuel injection cleaner to it....sounds like the injectors are dirty.....

emissionwiz

Marvin

  • 85242 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 11, 2009

SOURCE: car idles low, stalls after start

Common issue at the shop (i'm a ford technician), here is what I do to correct it.
Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls at stops and low erratic idle speed and rough idle, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve (IAC for short), they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Mar 25, 2009

SOURCE: Vibration when in gear, and stalling.

The problem is the torque converter solenoid. I had it happen on my 94 Cavalier a few years back and was a cheap fix at the local car mechanic. What happens is the transmission warms up and hits a certain speed where the solenoid engages, but then it sticks and won't disengage until it cools down sufficiently. When it sticks, it causes the car to shake when slowing down and will snub out the engine if you come to a stop.

Anonymous

  • 12 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 19, 2009

SOURCE: truck idels fine but put into gear stalls

you need to adjust the engion timing

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1987 jeep shuts down when switching gears or off gas pedal

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stalls , moving, only. at stop lights or between gears.
but never just parked idling.
if its random , that would be the EGR valve sticking open.
if EFI , bad idle switch.
if Carb bad dash pot. on carb.
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Hi, I recently been have a problem with my 1998 Honda, passport. While driving my Honda it would shut down then starts again on its own while rolling. At times it would not start again on its own you need...

sure, rolling in gear you mean. (same effect as push starting a car with M/T) what speed did it restart, 5mph or 50 or 85mph.?)
what transmission. A/T or M/T? BEG ERROR there !

shut down,?
you mean stalls,
and engine can do 3 things
run too slow (way below 800RPM idle , illegal idle speeds)
stalls (rpm goes to zero or you find zero power from the engine )
if you stop the car, and the engine stalls that is an engine stall.

or run perfectly.

does your model have a tachometer to you can see RPM?
and if idle controls work,
not posting the trans type, (non body does here) makes answers near impossible. infact most will just ignore you posts.

with a M?T car the engine immediately returns (hot ) to 800rpm
and is regulated very closely by the EFI brain (PCM)
if not you are seeing IDLE control failure.
with and A/T there is no MT clutch and when you stop
the autoclutch drags (wastes fuel like mad) and puts a huge load
on the engine, stopped say at a red light. the idle controls
on A/t are greatly taxed here.
so RPM can drop real low. fail. or stall. below 800
a stall happens at about 400 RPM.
the M/T can at any time be restarted on the fly (moving)
but just dumping the clutch. or just waiting as you coast in gear.
this is how push starting any M/T car works.
but on an A/T car , on the fly restarts take huge speeds.
and only works on A/T that have 2 oil pumps.
the A/T with no rear pump , the A/T can not be push starter
or coast restarted, if the front pump is dead(engine stalled)
im not looking up your tranny spec. because you never stated, it.


my engine stalls. (not tranny slip)
1: bad 12vdc power to any EFI system component.
2: never ever tuned up per the free operators guide in glove box.
3: lost engine compression. 1 or all cylinders.
4: lost spark. (or timed wrong, early cars have distributors)
5: bad fueling. too much or too little

when the engine runs , does the MIL, CEL glow running
btw the CEL also glows, at all stalls. the lamp only means.
I HAVE ELECT power, now.... only.
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Johnson 4 stroke 115 hp will not start. fuel

Sounds like and injector problem to me. If it was a 2 stroke I'd tell you to pull the carbs and clean them ,but EFI is a whole different story. Most certaintly a fuel problem, most likely injector related, you'll most likely need to go see a marine mechanic with the proper equipment to analyze, rather than start replacing parts you may not need.
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