This happens when the driver is not returning to top of the cylinder. Remove the driver and make sure that it is not slightly bent or not lubed enough and sticking to the cylinder. Also check the driver piston seal ring is not too loose. The driver should move easily within the cylinder but not so loose that it just drops to the bottom of the cylinder. Good luck with your repair.
SOURCE: air nailer won't nail
If youve never done anything to it could be a couple things. Have you kept it oiled (about 6-8 drops) before using and again at lunch if construction type work. Check the nails to make sure they move freely in the magazine Check the nail guage for proper size. and what I would do is fire it till it skips disconnect the air from tool and open the front door (for removing jams) and see the driver position. If it is partially down that would be the problem, check the driver for being bent. Lastly remove all nails and just tap the nose on a piece of wood and again check the driver position, if it moves or falls freely then the tool would have to have new rubber which might be a good idea anyway. Get back to me with the model number and I will research and see if they make an o ring kit.
SOURCE: I have a Porter Cable Fn250B nailer. The rod that
you can go to this site and order a rebuild kit . .http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/portercable/portercable-4.html
SOURCE: Porter Cable 18 ga Brad nailer - BN200 Will not reload
Strip and clean the whole diaphragm and spring arrangement. Also check whether a bad nail hasn't damaged the piston guide and caused it to jam when on return stroke.
SOURCE: PORTER CABLE FR350 FRAMING NAILER RAPID FIRES
I have seen this problem on several brands of nailers. The solution in most cases was to make sure headvalve orings are sealing correctly. Here is a simple test. Remove the head and place on workbench with gasket surface facing up. Push headvalve all the way in with your thumbs then cover the vent hole with finger and release thumb pressure to headvalve. Vacuum should keep headvalve down untill you release finger at vent-hole. If vacuum does not hold, remove headvalve and examine surfaces for fine scratches and/ or make sure of correct size orings (headvalve should be very snug). Remove scratches with extra fine paper (300-400 grit). If headvalve holds, remove headvalve piston and piston stop. With headvalve spring removed, push piston stop into headvalve and make sure that the piston stop fits snuggly into piston. Also make sure piston stop is not damaged or cracked. A loose fitting piston stop will cause multi-fire. Replace as necessary. Upon re-assembly, lube all rubber parts with plenty of silicone lube (not oil, wipe clean all parts before lubing). Silicone paste/grease is sold at Lowes in the plumbing department (Danco Brand). Good luck and email if you have other questions about this gun.
SOURCE: Porter cable finish nailer won't work. Not jammed
On the front nosepiece, unlatch the nose cover and see if you can push or pull on the driver pin. If you can push it into the housing all the way and feel the resistance from the driver piston it is not your driver. You may find that you can pull the driver but it will not go into the housing all the way. In this case you have a broken driver and will need to replace it. Note the driver pin should not lean sideways at all when you are pushing it into the housing. It sounds to me like a driver problem. Remove the four backhead screws and take the head off, be carefull not to damage the gasket. Remove the press ring (looks like a round cage) Then you can remove the cylinder. If it is the problem I think it is you will see the driver piston cocked sideways in the cylinder and a broken driver pin sitting at the bottem of the housing. You will have to replace the driver and the cylinder. along with any seals in this assembly. If you have any questions please post and I will try to answer.
1,919 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×