20 Most Recent Porter Cable FactoryReconditioned DA250BR 15 Ga 2 12" Angle Nailer Kit Questions & Answers

The front of the nose has a door that is held on with a latch. You can release the latch and open the door to gain access to the nail. Try and pry it out with something like a small dental pick. You can remove the front screws to remove the door if need be. Here is a link to a tool diagram to help you.

http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/cgi-bin/schematic.cgi/portercable/DA250B

And when ordering parts drop the R from the end of the model number. That just stands for reconditioned.

Pull lever back on top of clip, slip sleeve of nails into slot, then release lever to push nails forward as you use nails.Make sure you are you the right gage of nail.

There are two issues that people have with nailers that sound the same however are totally different. Firing more that one nail at a time can be taken as; two nails being driven with one fire or the nailer vary rapidly firing a second time almost instantly after firing the first nail and each time only drive one nail. Problem of double fire (either type) is very common with nailers (the gun very quickly fires twice), however two nails at once can only happen if the wrong gauge nails are used in the gun. A 15 g nailer can very easily pass two 18 g nails or, with more difficulty, pass two 16g nails. To help prevent the driver blade from hitting two nail heads at once, most drivers are slightly tapered at the tip so that the driver will hit the first nail and the tapered part will push the other nails back into the rails slightly. Remove the head of the nailer and pull out the driver. Measure or compare the thickness of the driver to the thickness of the nail head. If you are sure that you are using 15 gauge nails, check the driver for taper. The tapered part should face the rails. If not tapered, try carefully grinding a taper keeping the tip cool so that you do not effect the hardness. You could also check for other brands of 15 g nails with slightly more spacing between the nails. There is a big difference in quality among brands of nails. Good luck with your repair

Problem of double fire is very common with nailers (the gun very quickly fires twice), however two nails at once can only happen if the wrong gauge nails are used in the gun. A 15 g nailer can very easily pass two 18 g nails or, with more difficulty, pass two 16g nails. To help prevent the driver blade from hitting two nail heads at once, most drivers are slightly tapered at the tip so that the driver will hit the first nail and the tapered part will push the other nails back into the rails slightly. Remove the head of the nailer and pull out the driver. Measure or compare the thickness of the driver to the thickness of the nails. If you are using 15 gauge nails, check the driver for taper. The tapered part should face the rails. If not tapered, try carefully grinding a taper keeping the tip cool so that you do not loose the hardness. You could also check for other brands of 15 g nails. There is a big difference in quality among brands of nails. Good luck with your repair.

You should be able to locate a finger latch near the head of the machine, along the slide. Pull the slide back towards the air inlet connection. The brads will load into the top of the slide. There is a release on the air line end of the slide. Push the release and the slide will push forward, putting tension on the nails. If the release is difficult, pull back slightly on the slide, and push the release, then let off of the slide lever.

--W/D--

Miss fire usually occurs when piston/driver is bent, piston oring worn, lower bumper cracked or missing pieces or upper bumper is cracked. Easy to check. Remove head and pull piston. If bent try to adjust, but be careful, blade breaks easily. Piston should fit snugly in cylinder, if loose, replace piston oring. If oring/plastic ring ok examine lower bumper for cracks and replace as needed. If lower bumper ok, pull out headvalve and examine upper bumper for cracks. If upper bumper ok, pull cylinder and look for loose check band around cylinder. Check band is black rubber and should be placed around cylinder fitting snuggly covering series of holes. Replace parts as needed and lube with silicone paste sold at Lowes in the plumbing department (or white grease). Good luck

Parts /extra trigger for your gun are available at your local dewalt service center or at www.toolpartsdirect.com. Some of the triggers that come with fr350a as standard equipment had a small red button on the side that allowed you to select single shot mode or multiple. If your gun has a black metal trigger, it is better quality/lasts longer than black plastic. Good hollidays

Driver not returning to top of cylinder is caused by several issues. Bent driver, piston oring, and check valve. Remove head and pull out driver. The blade should be straight with no missing pieces. Driver piston should fit snuggly into cylinder and not drop down cylinder under its own weight. If driver / piston look ok, pull out cylinder and look for check seal in place. It looks like rubber band and fits in groove with row of holes. Parts are available at www.toolpartsdirect.com

I also have a PC Model 136 belt sander. Although I don't do a lot of woodworking, it has proved to be a workhorse when I needed it. I don't have a problem with breaking belts - the last ones I bought at OSH. The problem that has developed with mine is getting the belt alignment adjusted, after a belt change, to not run against the sander body. A little banging (with my hand) will correct the problem. I have serviced it to free up the fulcrum, but it still jams most of the time. This doesn't address your problem, but it is good to hear of someone else who appreciates the fine older tools. Just a further thought - the newer belts I have purchased are bi-directional, e.g., they will run either way. I know that the older belts had to run one way and running them backward could - almost surely would - cause them to break. I won't insult your intelligence to suggest that that might be your problem.

The brushes are not replaceable - it is an entire motor assembly. 1) remove the 2 screws holding the top handle on 2) remove the 2 screws on the top of the housing (front either side of switch) 3) remove single screw holding cord hook (rear side of housing) 4) remove small torx screw in the shaker handle and remove the handle Flip over and using a screwdriver begin to pry the top cover off the housing (easiest to get the front side off first)

any word on type of nailer?

call this company, they have the different types I purchased from them and no complaints https://www.ereplacementparts.com/porter-cable-7800-

first you need to remove the tank and get rid of the rust with a rust kill agent, vinga or chemical type with corrosive converter, then liquid paint the inside of the tank, swilling the paint inside and leave to drip out. then find a high pressure line filter, these are a solid filter and put in line. to stop this happening again to the tank you can also put a drop valve in place and when not in use press to release the air inside as this is what rusts the tank. but after the restoration it should be fine without a filter.

Is this it? https://www.manualslib.com/manual/132302/Porter-Cable-Bsv750.html