Maytag Neptune MAH7500WH Front Load Washer Logo
Posted on Nov 25, 2007
Answered by a Fixya Expert

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Door will not lock to start wash cycl


I have a MAH7500AWW which worked without any problem for 7 years. I have the whole door assembly replaced recently because the machine kept giving a message, " The door did not appear to lock..." After a few repeated door closings and pressing "off" & "start", I managed to start the cycle. It would work well for a few cycles and stop again. When the door lock is energized and closed, the wash cycle would complete without a hitch. Any help will be greatly appreciated -- short of changing the main machine control board. I checked all possible loose connections. I tested for continuity for the door lock switch: P8(3) and the neutral and P1(1) and the neutral prong of the power cord. Instead of a constant buzzing sound of the voltmeter that I expected, both tests showed a reading.

  • 16 more comments 
  • kgoh Nov 28, 2007

    Mike,

    Thanks for the reply. I only changed the assembly, not the door. Having gotten a new one, I tested and compared the characteristics of the old with the new one; I really didn't find any difference.

    The latch works intermittently, both for the new and old. The reading across P3-8 and P3-3 is 46.2 volt in an unlocked position, zero when locked. The door solenoid is ~62 ohms relative to the common, ~120 ohms lead-to-lead. Tested both the "Door Close" and door switches; both worked.

    When tried to start a cycle, the machine would return an error message that the door did not lock. I then toggled the solenoid lever to latch and unlatch the door, repeating the "off" then "start" cycles, the machine would magically start with one of these trials (the lid of my machine was up, but the door hinges were fastened without the front cover).

    When I ran the diagnostics, I got code 47 all the time. When I cycle-tested it, the test would complete without a hitch if the machine were able to close the door latch. Otherwise, all functions would complete, except for the spin.

    Once the cycle starts, the wash would complete perfectly. Loose connections?

    I will attempt to follow the solenoid circuit segment by segment next. Any suggestion for a short-cut.

    Many thanks,
    Kim

  • kgoh Nov 28, 2007

    Mike,


    Your last message reinforced my hunch that I might have a loose
    connection somewhere in the circuit. I decided to unplug every connection in
    the machine and re-seated them making sure that every contact point was
    affected. It worked!! I tested with 20 odd start/stop cycles,
    disconnecting and reconnecting the plug to the wall outlet. I stopped the testing before I break
    something else. The machine still works!


    Many thanks,


    Kim

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  • Expert 290 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 25, 2007
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Joined: Sep 25, 2007
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This sounds like a classic door lock problem. There was a design change in the lock assembly because of numerous problems.
You say you had the door replaced, did they replace the lock assy also?
The control puts power to the wax motor that operates the latch. As the door locks, the latch activates the lock switch that tells the control the door is locked.
What kind of reading are you getting on the lock switch?
Thanks/Mike

  • 1 more comment 
  • Anonymous Nov 25, 2007

    According to the diagram I have,

    You should have continuity through the door lock switch when the door is locked on P3-8 gray wire to P3-3 blue wire.

  • Anonymous Nov 28, 2007

    It sounds like you have a control problem.

    The problem with diagnosing it is it being erratic. I would rather something break and stay broke. It makes it a lot easier to find the problem.



    If you are losing the signal voltage across p3-8 and p3-3 when the latch closes, then the door lock switch should be working properly. If it still gives the door lock message when you can tell that the switch is closed with your meter, then the board is not sensing the voltage. You probably have a loose solder joint somewhere in the board and will have to replace the control.

    Go through the checks you have in your tech sheet and see what you find out.

    When the control locks the door, it puts 120VAC to the lock solenoid from P1-1. It sends 24VDC to the door lock switch from P3-3 and it returns to the board through P3-8. This signal voltage tells the board the door is locked.

    If you have these readings and the door is locked but you still get the door lock code then the problem must be in the control.

    Thanks/Mike

  • Anonymous Nov 28, 2007

    Great! Glad to be of some small help.

    Thanks/Mike

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Question asked many years ago:
3/11/2010
Appliance Technician: Tyler Z.
You will need to remove the lower front panel. There are 3 screws along the bottom. Remove these screws and remove the panel. Next, pull the plastic pull tab on the bottom of the latch assembly to manually unlock the door latch and then shut the door. Then start a cycle and cycle it to see if it will unlock on it's own. If not then you need to replace yoru door latch assembly. Here is a link to the part.

CLICK HERE
Tyler Z., Appliance Doc
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 87,538
Experience: 9+ years being an appliance technician with factory training.

We tried this and it did not release...is there anything else we can do?

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not really unfortunately, you can try holding the door switch button in and try to start and cycle a cycle but I'm not sure that will work either, it sounds like you might just need a new latch assembly.

.........................................
Does the latch have an actuater that would buzz or make a weird noise during a cycle?

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not really no.

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