Chainsaw won't run and wanted to knowingly low adjustments as well
Check where coil (has plug attached) is gapped correctly
fro flywheel/rotor. usually the contacts are dirty so when the
flywheel/rotor spins around the magnetic pickups dont register
SOURCE: How to replace the Husqvarna chainsaw fuel line.
let me knoe the model number and i'll see what i have....
SOURCE: husqvarna chainsaw carburetor adjustment
Find the 2 screws. There will be a (h) high and (L) low. These are for hig rpms and low rpms. First tighten the screws. Then unscrew them about 1-1/4 turns. Then start the saw and let it warm up. Start with the high rpms first pull the trigger all the way then adjust the screw in 1/8 turns either way until it is running good at high rpms. Then work on the L rpms. Get the saw to idle then pull the trigger, there should not be any hesitation when going from L to H rpms. Just adjust the low same as the High. They have to work together so if the high is good and the low is not just right turn the h a small amount. If you have any more questions let me know
SOURCE: I have a husqvarna 340 chainsaw and it will not
Turn the screw labled T in a little. This will raise the idle setting. Heres a link to the manual. Look on page 29 of the .pdf
http://www.northerntool.com/downloads/manuals/195946.pdf
SOURCE: my Chainsaw Husqvarna 345, won't start. With
I hope 2 different problems Marvin. I think the starter is most important, after you reply with findings we will take on the likely fuel delivery problem. Please do this and post back (below) with what you find.
Starter Handle difficult to pull:
1. Remove the starter cover. Does the starter operate smoothly? If yes, reinstall the cover and continue with 2, if not repair the starter.
2. Is the saw equipped with a decompression valve? Yes continue, no proceed with 3.
· Leave the ignition off, set the valve and pull the starter.
· Pull gently to release the valve. Is there a difference in the effort required?
· If yes continue with 3, if no repair or replace the decompression valve.
3. Was this saw perhaps operated in a lean condition (metal transfer from the piston to cylinder wall)? This may be caused by many things including but not limited to; leaky intake connections at the engine or carburetor; leaky crankcase seals; cracked fuel delivery lines; running on gasoline containing no 2-cycle oil.
· Disconnect the spark plug wire and remove the plug. Remove the muffler (clean it and the spark arrestor before reinstalling), hold a light at the plug hole and inspect the cylinder through the exhaust port. Is it smooth and shiny or does it appear speckled with dull gray spots or smears?
· Pull the starter slowly, inspect the piston as it rises and falls. Is it a dull gray without scratches and gouges?
· Hold the light at the exhaust port and look through the spark plug hole, inspect the cylinder above the exhaust port. Is it shiny and smooth or speckled with gray spots or smears?
Please Note: Any spots or smears on the cylinder or deep scratches and gouges in the piston indicate the saw was operated in a lean condition. Repair of this on a home owner quality saw often exceeds replacement cost. A repair estimate by an independent saw shop should be considered.
4. The last likely possibility is the saw has jumped timing. Inspect the flywheel and crankshaft under the starter cover. Are the woodruff key slots aligned and the key intact? Please take it to a good local saw seller/mechanic for a written diagnosis before authorizing any repair.
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH
Lou
Starter fluid removes what little lubrication is provided by the fuel mix. I suggest a teaspoon of mix into open carburetor throat or the plug hole. Do not go to speed with the air filter removed.
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