Kenmore 106.56532400 refrigerator compressor & fan keep running

SOURCE: Sears Kenmore 53652300, doesn't cool

This usually indicates that the compressor is working too hard and drawing too much current. The click that you hear is a safety shut-off. Possible causes of this are numerous and usually require having a professional come in to fix the issue, it can range anywhere from a faulty compressor to a bad start relay.

There is in most cases a temporary fix, it is called a hard start relay/capacitor. It is usually available from an appliance parts retailer for around $15 to $20. Installation instructions are included, just be sure to unplug your refrigerator first and make sure that someone following you can repair from where you left off. This relay assembly can normally get you up and running but it should not be used as a permanent fix. This will not correct for a refrigerant leak in the system.

Check your refrigerator owners manual before making any repairs or modifications to your refrigerator, there may be an extended warranty on the sealed system and compressor.

SOURCE: Kenmore 596.73502201 Not cooling. Compressor , fan, seal ok

If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.

First, answer these questions:

• Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”



• Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.

Next, see if the compressor motor is running

The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.

If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:

• The compressor



• The Thermostat



• The overload, relay, or capacitor



• The defrost timer



• The condenser fan motor

Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt. 

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

• The defrost timer



• The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)



• The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem 

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. 

SOURCE: Freezer works Refrigerator will not cool down

The compressor should be OK this time because you caught it in time. But if the condenser fan stops you need to consider replacing the fan. I have had refrigerators do fine until the fan motor warms up and you are away, it stops. Don't think you should use the refrigerator until the fan is fixed. Sea Breeze

SOURCE: Kenmore Coldspot compressor kicking on and off

It sounds like you may have toasted one of the starting componets. Either the start relay or the start capacitor has probably failed, causing the compressor to try to start, and then kick off on overload. Hope this helps

SOURCE: My Kenmore refrigerator model 253.6419240N

you would probably need to replace the defrost thermostat sensor......it is probably defective.....its a sensor that detects temps and shuts down the compessor when temps are satisfied.....now your unit just keeps workin, and working, and working and never shuts down....until the compressor overheats and shuts down due to the overload protector kickin in.............

you will need to open the back panel in the freezer compartment.....unplug unit first........take out panel and unplug harness.......there should be a round sensor that clips onto the copper pipe............it should have two wires coming out of it..........unclip it from the pipe............cut the wires at least one inch from the clip......wires should be orange/yellow or blue/brown......just cut the wires that comes out from it........do not be confused of the other two wires.................get your model number and source for a replacement part....or just purchase a universal replacement......just resplice wires follow the color codes,yellow to yellow and orange to orange....and use wire nuts and black tape afterwards and install panel and test unit.....observe it for 24 hours....................................
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note evaporator coils are very sharp be careful and safe at all times.......
a feed back would be good if this helps.................