Torque adjustment ring is stuck. How do you fix it?

Unfortunately, the possible issues are numerous. The problem is most likely either your torque converter, or electrical issues with your transmission. Without knowing how the vehicle is acting, if it's drivable, when it trips the codes, etc, it makes it more difficult to accurately diagnose.

Here is what ford says about those codes...

SERVICE PROCEDURE
The torque converter clutch may not engage if one or more of the following conditions exist:
- Stuck converter regulator valve
- Stuck solenoid regulator valve
- Stuck bypass clutch control valve
- Stuck pressure failsafe valve
- Pump bore ring groove depth incorrect
- Worn pump shaft or damaged pump shaft seals
- Pump shaft internal sleeve loose (rattles)
- Turbine shaft seals damaged or missing
- Incorrect Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) solenoid
- TCC solenoid mechanically stuck or electrically inoperable
- Damaged internal wiring harness
- Incorrect gear ratio (wrong sprockets)
- Damaged or worn stator support
- Worn torque converter hub bushing
- Torque converter clutch worn or damaged
Use a scan tool to monitor the following PID's:
- TCC = Commanded duty cycle for TCC solenoid
- TCCMACT = Actual slip across the TCC, measured in RPM
- RPM = Actual engine speed
- TSS_SRC = Actual turbine shaft speed
- TCCRAT = Speed/Gear ratio of torque converter/transaxle

Hope this helps.

Hi there:
This code is related to the TCC circuit in the transmission. It is either stuck in the closed position (regulator valve, or control valve) or it has a bad torque converter. You will need to take it to a reputable transmission shop to have some fluid line pressure tests done. The cost of course will depend on the repair needed. Some parts of the repair for this are pretty simple and only require removal of the oil pan and valve body to access related parts, but if the converter has ballooned and needs to be replaced the transmission will need to come out for repairs. Most good shops are happy to give you a free written estimate, ask for one before you authorize any repair work. Could be rather simple, but could just as easily be complex, hard to tell from where I'm setting. Better to have it tested than to just start throwing expensive parts at it in an attempt to fix it. Most of these failures are caused by dirt, and things getting plugged up due to lack of maintenance.

Honda Service News November 2003 TITLE:
A/T DTC P0740, P0741 Repair Tips: Another Look APPLIES TO:
All Models

SERVICE TIP:
If you're doing a repair for DTC P0740 or P0741 (lock-up control system) on any Honda models with A/T, except Passport, refer to this table first:




If there is no S/B posted on ISIS for the vehicle you're working on, go to the DTC P0740 or P0741 troubleshooting procedure in the Automatic Transmission section of the appropriate S/M or under DTC Troubleshooting in ISIS. If the procedure recommends replacing the A/T, make sure you have a reman A/T on hand. Remove the original A/T, and look at the condition of the torque converter O-ring. Then follow these tips to ensure a lasting repair.

Missing or cut O-ring . If the O-ring is missing or cut, the ATF can leak internally, causing DTC P0740 or P0741 to set. Replace the O-ring, and reuse the original A/T. Make sure the problem has been fixed by connecting the HDS and testdriving the vehicle using the previous DTC P0740 or P0741 freeze data parameters (match the TPS and VSS values for at least 25 seconds ). If the DTC comes back, install the reman A/T. If the DTC doesn't come back, return the reman A/T to the reman center.

Flattened or deformed O-ring . If the O-ring is flattened or deformed, replace the A/T. The O-ring can get damaged if the ATF pump seizes up and overheats. Make sure the problem has been fixed by connecting the HDS and testdriving the vehicle using the previous DTC P0740 or P0741 freeze data parameters (match the TPS and VSS values for at least 25 seconds ).

O-ring is OK . If the O-ring is round and in good condition, the most likely cause for DTC P0740 or P0741 to set is the A/T, the torque converter, or both. Install the reman A/T. Make sure the problem has been fixed by connecting the HDS and test-driving the vehicle using the previous DTC P0740 or P0741 freeze data parameters (match the TPS and VSS values for 25 seconds ). Before you install the reman A/T, make sure the O-ring on the torque converter is properly installed.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

CHECK TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL.IF TRANSMISSION FLUID AND FILTER BEEN CHANGED.MAKE SURE ENGINE FINE TUNED AND TRANSMISSION DOWN SHIFT CABLE HAS BEEN ADJUSTED.OTHER POSSIBLE CAUSES TRANSMISSION NOT SHIFT TO SECOND GEAR. YOU HAVE FAULTY STUCK 1 - 2 SHIFT SOLENOID. OR TORQUE CONVERTER SLIPPING NOT LOCKING UP DUE TO DAMAGED TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH VALVE OR TORQUE CONVERTER FAULTY.

Change the CHUCK . Can find it at ->link.

No reverse, here are few things you can try before needing to take it to a tranny shop. The 4l60e trans is a fully electronic trans. And being so the problem could be as simle as the reverse shift solenoid has shortted out. Along that same line the reverse valve could be stuck and or the little screen that is attatched to the mid plat could be clogged and in order fix this problemyou need to drop out the valve boby and for the most part rebuild the reverse circute.

Now for the hard stuff. Other problems you could look at.
imput housing assembly - 3-4 apply ring stuck in applied position.
- forward clutch not releasing
- turbine shaft seals missing,cut or damaged.

manual linkage - not adjusted

oil pump assembly - retainer and ball assembly missing or damaged.
- stator shaft seal rings or ring grooves damaged.
- stator shaft sleeve scored or damaged.
- revers boost valve stuck, damaged or misassembled.
- cup plug missing.
- restricted oil passage.
- faces not flat.
- converter clutch apply valve stuck.

valve body assembly - 2-3 shift valve stuck.
- manual linkage not adjusted.
- spacer plate and gaskets incorrect, misposition or damaged.

reverse input clutch - clutch plate worn.
- reverse input houeing and drum assembly cracked at weld.
- clutch plate retaining ring out of groove.
- return spring asembly retaining ring out of groove.
- piston deformed or dished.
- seals cut or damaged.
- retainer and ball assembly not sealing.
- restricted apply passage.

lo and reverse clutch - clutch plates worn.
- clutch plate retaining ring mispositioned.
- porosity in piston.
- seals damaged.
- return spring assembly retaining ring mispositioned.
- restricted apply passage.

case - cover plate gasket missing or damaged.
- cover plate not torgued correctly.
- porosity.

now thhis came from my 4l60 service book.
hope this helps
Thank you for using fixya and be safe

As a general rule of thumb, If you have normal Weaver-type aluminum rings, you tighten to 10 to 15 inch-pounds. If you have normal Weaver-type steel scope rings, you tighten to 15 to 20 inch-pounds. If it's something exotic and/or expensive, you're pretty much stuck contacting the manufacturer. Leupold Mark 4's require 65 in-lb, for instance.

Wiha makes two adjustable torque screwdrivers (one for lower torque, and one for up to 60 in-lb that are perfect for most any scope ring applications.

Make sure that the throttle linkage is all there and not damaged/misadjusted, then get a manometer and check your inlet gas pressure. Gas pressure should be 8 inches of water column and stay there running or not.

Carl

REMOVAL

1. Remove filler plug from the differential cover.
2. Remove differential cover and drain the lubricant.
3. Clean housing cavity with flushing oil, light engine oil or a lint free cloth. NOTE: Do not use steam, kerosene or gasoline to clean the housing.
   
4. Remove axle shafts.
5. Remove RWAL/ABS sensor from housing. NOTE: Side play resulting from bearing races being loose on case hubs requires replacement of the differential case.
   
6. Mark differential housing and bearing caps for installation reference (REFERENCE MARKS).
7. Remove bearing threaded adjuster lock from each bearing cap.
8. Loosen differential bearing cap bolts.
9. Loosen differential bearing adjusters through the axle tubes with Wrench C-4164 (THREADED ADJUSTER TOOL).
10. Hold differential case while removing bearing caps and adjusters.
11. Remove differential case. NOTE: Tag the differential bearing cups and threaded adjusters to indicate their location.
    

INSTALLATION

1. Apply a coating of hypoid gear lubricant to the differential bearings, bearing cups, and threaded adjusters. A dab of grease can be used to keep the adjusters in position.
2. Install differential assembly into the housing.
3. Install differential bearing caps in their original locations (BEARING CAPS).
4. Install bearing cap bolts and tighten the upper bolts to 14 N·m (10 ft. lbs.). Tighten the lower bolts finger-tight until the bolt head is seated.
5. Perform the differential bearing preload and adjustment procedure. NOTE: Be sure that all bearing cap bolts are tightened to their final torque of 136 N·m (100 ft.lbs.) before proceeding.
   
6. Install axle shafts.
7. Apply a bead of orange Mopar Axle RTV Sealant or equivalent to the housing cover (COVER SEALANT). CAUTION: If cover is not installed within 3 to 5 minutes, the cover must be cleaned and new RTV applied or adhesion quality will be compromised.
   
8. Install the cover and any identification tag and tighten cover bolts to 41 N·m (30 ft. lbs.).
9. Fill differential with lubricant to bottom of the fill plug hole. Refer to the Lubricant Specifications for the correct quantity and type. NOTE: Trac-lok™ differential equipped vehicles should be road tested by making 10 to 12 slow figure-eight turns. This maneuver will pump the lubricant through the clutch discs to eliminate a possible chatter noise complaint.
   

DIFFERENTIAL BEARING PRELOAD AND GEAR BACKLASH The following must be considered when adjusting bearing preload and gear backlash:

• The maximum ring gear backlash variation is 0.076 mm (0.003 in.).
• Mark the gears so the same teeth are meshed during all backlash measurements.
• Maintain the torque while adjusting the bearing preload and ring gear backlash.
• Excessive adjuster torque will introduce a high bearing load and cause premature bearing failure. Insufficient adjuster torque can result in excessive differential case free-play and ring gear noise.
• Insufficient adjuster torque will not support the ring gear correctly and can cause excessive differential case free-play and ring gear noise.

NOTE: The differential bearing cups will not always immediately follow the threaded adjusters as they are moved during adjustment. To ensure accurate bearing cup responses to the adjustments:

• Maintain the gear teeth engaged (meshed) as marked.
• The bearings must be seated by rapidly rotating the pinion gear a half turn back and forth.
• Do this five to ten times each time the threaded adjusters are adjusted.

1. Through the axle tube use Wrench C-4164 to adjust each threaded adjuster inward until the differential bearing free-play is eliminated. Allow some ring gear backlash approximately 0.25 mm (0.01 in.) between the ring and pinion gear. Seat the bearing cups with the procedure described above.
2. Install dial indicator and position the plunger against the drive side of a ring gear tooth (RING GEAR BACKLASH). Measure the backlash at 4 positions, 90 degrees apart around the ring gear. Locate and mark the area of minimum backlash.
3. Rotate the ring gear to the position of the least backlash. Mark the gear so that all future backlash measurements will be taken with the same gear teeth meshed.
4. Loosen the right-side, tighten the left-side threaded adjuster. Obtain backlash of 0.076 to 0.102 mm (0.003-0.004 in.) with each adjuster tightened to 14 N·m (10 ft. lbs.). Seat the bearing cups with the procedure described above.
5. Tighten the differential bearing cap bolts 136 N·m (100 ft. lbs.).
6. Tighten the right-side threaded adjuster to 102 N·m (75 ft. lbs.). Seat the bearing cups with the procedure described above. Continue to tighten the right-side adjuster and seat bearing cups until the torque remains constant at 102 N·m (75 ft. lbs.)
7. Measure the ring gear backlash. The range of backlash is 0.15 to 0.203 mm (0.006 to 0.008 in.).
8. Continue increasing the torque at the right-side threaded adjuster until the specified backlash is obtained. NOTE: The left-side threaded adjuster torque should have approximately 102 N·m (75 ft. lbs.). If the torque is considerably less, the complete adjustment procedure must be repeated.
   
9. Tighten the left-side threaded adjuster until 102 N·m (75 ft. lbs.) torque is indicated. Seat the bearing rollers with the procedure described above. Do this until the torque remains constant.
10. Install the threaded adjuster locks and tighten the lock screws to 10 N·m (90 in. lbs.).

ring the main dealer and ask for torque setting they should tell u

There is no secret locking switch. If a little gentle jiggling doesn't free the zoom ring, then I can only suggest you take it in to a reputable camera shop for a Clean-Lubricate-Adjust (CLA).