Freezer alarm keeps going off ...refer door closing causes air pressure to dislodge freezer door enough to see light around freezer seal and set off alarm. freezer door doesn't reclose by itself. Pressure on freezer door stops alarm until next time refer door opened. Unit is level.

This appears to be a reference to the defrosting component of a Amana freezer. Let's just assume that it is not a problem with the freezer door seals. (If the seal is not a tight seal when the door is closed, you have melting occurring and the the freezer trying to compensate by refreezing, yielding a lot of icing in the compartment. This is what happens if you over stuff the freezer and the freezer door does not quite close firmly, as well.)

The Amana defrost thermostat might be defective or have become dislodged for some reason. If defective, it would require replacement. But let's say it is not defective. The defroster didn't work when there was too much ice buildup. This could cause the molex connector in the thermostat to contract, breaking the connect activating it. One user "fixed" this problem by putting aluminum foil inside the molex connector.

If the theromostate became dislodged from its "attachment point", one would need to know the model of the freezer know where that point was. https://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/threads/amana-defrost-thermostat-installation-location.27405/

There are videos describing replacement of the thermostat in some Amana's. You can find such on YouTube. I just can't promise that replacement would fix the problem.

The light will flash until the freezer gets cold enough probably around zero degrees. Be sure door is sealing tightly. This can easily be checked by opening the door and putting a dollar bill between the door seal and the cabinet and closing the door. Close the door and tug on the dollar bill there should be a little resistance there if the seal is sealing against the cabinet. check it in several places

I have a refrigerator with a top freezer that was constantly popping open, just enough to let the heat in and melt anything inside. This can also cause heavy frost build up from condensing humidity in the air. The frost can build up on the front face of the fridge where it meets the magnetic gasket on the door making it even harder to keep the freezer closed.
The cause in my case was that slamming the refrigerator door sent a puff of air through the ductwork to the freezer above. The sudden pressure increase popped the freezer door open and the door wasn't heavy enough to close on its own. Since this is a beer fridge in my garage I fixed it by putting a stick on childproof latch from H-D on the freezer door. :-)
If this was our main fridge indoors, I would first check to see how much force it takes to open the freezer vs. the refrigerator section. It should be about the same. If not, check the freezer door gasket to be sure no food or ice is built up on it and that the mating surface is clean. Check that the door is closing parallel to the mating surface. A misalignment would make it hard for the gasket to seal or stay sealed. Adjust hinges if necessary. If all seems ok, check to see if the fridge is level or possibly needs to be adjusted so it tilts back just a bit to make the doors self closing and not fighting gravity to stay closed. If all else fails, inspect the door gasket to be sure it isn't broken or stiffened with age. Inspect the bottom of the door gasket with a mirror. I once had a side by side with what looked like a good gasket until I felt around the bottom of the door. Replace if necessary.

It usually means that your door is either not closing properly or the seal is deformed. Moist air is getting in and condenses on the coldest surface at the back of the freezer. Check that the freezer is not too full (stopping door from closing fully) and check the door-seal.

Sometimes it is caused by icing of the thermostat. Ice is a good thermal insulator so the thermostat does not switch and the freezer keeps running constantly. Make sure there is adequate air circulation and no ice around the thermostat.

Defrosting usually fixes either problem.

Hello,

You can fix this, just follow the procedure given to enable get back your refrigerator going,
Check the temperature setting
Assure that there is enough room for air flow in the freezer or freezer
Check for air flow restrictions in vents
Test the temperature control
Clean the condensor coils
Check the door seals
Test the door switch
Test defrost heater
Test defrost timer
Test evaporator fan
Check for a clogged drain tube
Check for refrigerant leak
Freezer is too cold

Check the temperature setting
Test the temperature control
Freezer is noisy

Hissing and popping is normal, it is the defrost heater.
Check that the freezer is level
Check the drain pan
Check the condensor fan
Check the evaporator fan
Inspect the compressor mounts
Freezer runs continuously

Defrost the freezer
Clean the condensor coils
Check the door seals
Freezer starts and stops frequently

Clean the condensor coils
Check the outlet voltage
Test the condensor fan
Test the compressor relay
Test the overload protector
Test the compressor motor
Freezer does not defrost automatically

Test the defrost timer
Test the defrost heater
Test the defrost thermostat
Freezer has an unpleasant odor

Remove spoiled food
Clean freezer interior with a solution of h
Clean freezer interior with a solution of hot water and baking soda
Clean the door seals
Remove breaker strips and check for wet insulation
Water on floor outside of freezer

Check the drain pan
If you have an ice-maker, check the water supply hose going into and coming out of the water inlet valve
Water inside the freezer

Check for a clogged drain tube
If you have an ice-maker, check freezer and ice-maker for level

I hope this will help in solving the problem......

you could try cleaning the door seals if there is a gap the seal will not close and the system will keep trying to freeze, anything can stop the magnetic door seals from closing properly, setting of the alarm over time.

This is a symptom of air leaking into the freezer. The most common place is around the door. Check the door really good to make sure something is not obstructing it from closing all the way, it may be closing enough to satisfy the ajar alarm but not enough for a bit of moisture to sneak in. Look for tears or breaks in the seal. If you put a bright flashlight inside the freezer and close the door, turn off the lights in the room you may find a leak that way.

DONT BE ALARMED
it actually means everything is a ok
when you close the door your building a pressure inside the unit, it go;'s through the baffel or air channel and causes the refer door to open
it should close again but if not there is a good chance your machine is out of level forward
it is normal condition
hope this helps

Replace the seals. It may appear to be in good shape but what is happening is the compressed air from closing the refer door is going up and releasing the seal on the freezer I would replace the freezer seal first as that should solve your problem.

Thx
Deathstalker

Could be the air pressure created from shutting the refer door is popping open the other one. There are are channels between the two so cool air from the freezer gets to the refer compartment. Try this as a test... s l o w l y close the refer door and see if that keeps the other door from popping open. If that works then it's likely an air channel is frozen up somewhere and you may need to turn the unit off for a day or so to let it thaw out. Moisture from leaking door seals, or doors that were left slightly open overnight can be sucked in and freeze up the air channels. I don't know if you are sort of slamming the door shut or not but the doors need to be shut slowly due to how air tight the new refers are.