20 Most Recent LG LRTP1231W Top Freezer Refrigerator - Page 2 Questions & Answers

We have summarised all possible problem for this case here to this linkhttp://www.fixya.com/support/r6008187-side_side_refrigerator_whistling_sound

Hi,
Check out these tips...they can help you figure out whats going wrong...

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3662945-refrigerator_not_cooling_or_fridge_not

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3771673-defrost_refrigerator_defrost_timer


Water Running in Refrigerator from Freezer
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3780310-water_running_in_refrigerator_from

heatman101

replace the water valve / it isn't shutting off .. mm

Hello,

Sounds like a defective defrost timer

If its a frost free upright freezer and the evaporator is frosting up with a snow like frost you have a defrost problem.. defrost thermostat, heaters, or trimmer



Dirty condenser coils are not the problem. It's most likely the defrost timer or defrost heater. The heater should come on about 3 times per day to melt the ice on the evaporator coils. If the defrost timer is not turning on the heater or the heater is burnt out, the coils will freeze up

Hope this helpout and Good luck

If your cooling is just fine and the freezer is doing the job , you dont have much to worry. there is always a small heat that comes out of the heat exchange during the exothermic cycle. You need to keep the freezer away from the wall and not too close. if the freezer cools well just ignore the fault other wise you will need to get a consultation from your nearest service to concur this fault.. You have said it well and I hope that your freezer stays well. Good day

its most likely to be the thermostat in the freezer packed up on you and the only real way to test this out is to fit a new one,

I have every LG Service Available and the only models that begin with LRE are ranges. Double Check and then we will try again, Sea Breeze

Zaria:
I have the same kind of fridge and it also makes this kind of noises, however, they are on the acceptable level. They sound more like a seal being happy with the new food. It is not all the time but sometimes. I think it is the contraction and expansion of the pipes that cause the noise and is not a sign of any problem. Of course all depends on the level of the noise you have...
Hope it helps. Greg.

Check the vent door from the freezer to the refrigerator...when you turn the refrigerator off with the knob, does the vent door close. The bottom of your refrigerator works from the freezer blowing cold air through the vent to the bottom of the refrigerator. If it is turned all the way down, that should shut off the flow to the bottom. If any thing is broke there, it will continue to let cold air come down the vent, so check it out. The vent knob itself might not be working to turn the vent door down or off. There also, is a relay on the back of the refrigerator that controls the compressor on and off...it could be stuck in on position.

Some units don't have a drain tube. The water flows down the back of the fridge into the bottom and it just makes a mess. It has been a problem ever since they started going "Energy efficient". The drain was a hole and they had to close the holes. If you're lucky enough to have the drain, it will be located inside the back wall of your freezer. The inside walls must be removed. The drain will be in the drip pan, below the freezing coils (fins) in the back of the freezer.

The channel in the back were the cool air comes down from the freezer to the fridge may be iced up. Try defrosting the fridge/freezer for much longer than usual, all day if necessary.

Check with the manufacturer, sounds like you have a factory defective freezer. they should fix it for you.

the fan in the freezer section is called the evaporator fan. this fans main funciton is to blow cold air into the fresh food side. if its not running then you need to replace. make sure there is no frost build up on the rear wall in freezer section

Sears Parts Direct
Part for KENMORE, Model # 25336608896 Shelf, sliding, wiring
Part # 218272502 Category:Refrigerators and Freezers $34.41 In stock

turned out to be the compressor all fixed and working fine now

Try pulling the cover off in the back of the fridge and see if the fan is still operating when you push the light sensor switch in but hold it down for at least 10-20seconds to see if it starts.

Fridge freezing up- and no fan or air circulation: AT TIMES The fan usually stops working due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature. May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section. u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS . Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit? ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area! THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.