Top 20 LG LRTP1231W Top Freezer Refrigerator Questions & Answers

lower the temperature in the temperate control and then lower the humidity control vent to half open on the trays themselves.the main reason is your temperate is to cold.

I don't know how your unit works but most have a thermostat that opens a vent between the freezer and the fridge allowing cold air into the fridge compartment. you probably need a new thermostatwhich looks like a wire with a tube on the end, check for a service manual on the manufacturers website to find part numbers and diagrams

Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing thencheck out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

Hello,

Sounds like you have a defrost problem since the freezer side is working okay . It probably is not blowing cold air into the refrigerator side , so to check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrigerator and inside the refrigerator section at the top about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull downward and forward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4" screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 phillips screw behind both light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these 5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrigerator's , a white box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then another color , then white . Using a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass the adaptive board and send power directly through the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrigerator back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater .If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrigerator and reinstall the refrigerator control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils . This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good . If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the bimetal come wired together and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal already wired together . This would be the adviseable replacement part . However , each part can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic " cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its designed function .

Hope this helpout......

Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong with your refrigerator and why it is not cooling

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem

Water Running in refrigerator from Freezer

Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong.

If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator RepairRefrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator CompressorRefrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay

Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Coldheatman101

Drain in freezer compartment is plugged.
Mold (fungus) buildup sometimes restricts water flowing into condensate tube in the defrost cycle, and water somehow can enter in the refrigerator compartment and out the bottom of the refrigerator door.
You must clean the condensate tube!
You must remove back cover in freezer. One screw in left upper corner behind plastic screw plug will allow you to remove the cover exposing evapourator coil and condensate drain tube hole below it. Must also remove back cover at rear of refrigerator exposing the condensate drain tube END which may be restricted also.Tube must be totally cleared to allow the water created from defrost cycle to exit to the drain pan in the bottom of the refrigerator.

Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong with your refrigerator and why it is not cooling

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem

Water Running in refrigerator from Freezer

Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

MOST POSSIBLE YOUR DOOR SEAL IS FAULTY. WHEN YOU CLOSE THE DOOR OF YOUR FRIZZIER OR FRIDGE OBSERVE IF THE DOOR SEAL IS WELL "SUCKED" IN. IF NOT REPLACE THE DOOR SEAL.

Hello,

Sounds like a defective defrost timer

If its a frost free upright freezer and the evaporator is frosting up with a snow like frost you have a defrost problem.. defrost thermostat, heaters, or trimmer



Dirty condenser coils are not the problem. It's most likely the defrost timer or defrost heater. The heater should come on about 3 times per day to melt the ice on the evaporator coils. If the defrost timer is not turning on the heater or the heater is burnt out, the coils will freeze up

Hope this helpout and Good luck

If your cooling is just fine and the freezer is doing the job , you dont have much to worry. there is always a small heat that comes out of the heat exchange during the exothermic cycle. You need to keep the freezer away from the wall and not too close. if the freezer cools well just ignore the fault other wise you will need to get a consultation from your nearest service to concur this fault.. You have said it well and I hope that your freezer stays well. Good day

replace the water valve / it isn't shutting off .. mm

Hi,
Check out these tips...they can help you figure out whats going wrong...

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3662945-refrigerator_not_cooling_or_fridge_not

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3771673-defrost_refrigerator_defrost_timer


Water Running in Refrigerator from Freezer
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3780310-water_running_in_refrigerator_from

heatman101

its most likely to be the thermostat in the freezer packed up on you and the only real way to test this out is to fit a new one,

I have every LG Service Available and the only models that begin with LRE are ranges. Double Check and then we will try again, Sea Breeze

We have summarised all possible problem for this case here to this linkhttp://www.fixya.com/support/r6008187-side_side_refrigerator_whistling_sound

Some units don't have a drain tube. The water flows down the back of the fridge into the bottom and it just makes a mess. It has been a problem ever since they started going "Energy efficient". The drain was a hole and they had to close the holes. If you're lucky enough to have the drain, it will be located inside the back wall of your freezer. The inside walls must be removed. The drain will be in the drip pan, below the freezing coils (fins) in the back of the freezer.

Check the vent door from the freezer to the refrigerator...when you turn the refrigerator off with the knob, does the vent door close. The bottom of your refrigerator works from the freezer blowing cold air through the vent to the bottom of the refrigerator. If it is turned all the way down, that should shut off the flow to the bottom. If any thing is broke there, it will continue to let cold air come down the vent, so check it out. The vent knob itself might not be working to turn the vent door down or off. There also, is a relay on the back of the refrigerator that controls the compressor on and off...it could be stuck in on position.

The channel in the back were the cool air comes down from the freezer to the fridge may be iced up. Try defrosting the fridge/freezer for much longer than usual, all day if necessary.