Washer fills with water then drains:
The critical question is. Is the water is just running down the drain but the pump isn't running. If it is being pumped out, and you can hear the pump running just the same as when it's emptying prior to spin then it could be aborting the wash because it is, or it thinks it's overheating. ( due to defective water temperature switch)
If the pump is failing to shut off then there is something wrong with the electronics. If your washer is a mechanical timer controlled device then you may have a sticking switch (which may explain if switching cycles does something for you). But if you have an electronic timer then you may be experiencing a board failure, where a cycle is being commanded when it is not intended to by design.
If water isn't being pumped out, but just draining away all the time, the washer will keep detecting there isn't enough water inside and top up with more.
Modern washing machines should be sophisticated enough to realize something's wrong and abort with an error, but if not, it may continue washing or rinsing for a short while before losing enough water to trigger more coming in again. It can get stuck on this cycle indefinitely and it's called siphoning.
Siphoning occurs when the end of the drain hose is lower than the level of the water inside the washing machine.
Try raising the hose and see what happens.
Also the drain hose should have some type of air gap where it fits into the stand pipe. It should not have an air tight fit.
Again Either it's siphoning down the drain due to an issue with the plumbing, it's overfilling, or also if it ( THE WATER) overheats then in some machines the software will employ a fill and drain tactic to cool down the water. The important thing is to work out which of these different faults is causing the problem by careful observation.
Other switch's to check would be the water inlet valve and the water pressure switch with a multi meter for continuity or OHMS.
It could be possibly the belt. or if not, possibly a wire grounding out.
Most likely the belt. If the motors on a bind or going bad, it can smell like that also
Do you have a phone with a front facing selfie camera? Face the front of the remote at the camera and press a button. You should see a flash. If you don't, the batteries need changing or the remote has failed.
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No replacement parts generally, and all are obsolete. Holmes themselves send people to eReplacement parts, and they say obsolete. Fix with Epoxy adhesive or putty, or have the part 3D printed or buy new one.
I've just browsed your hand book that goes with this machine, as I'm in the UK I can sumise from the booklet that this won't reset as the fluff filter has something obtrusive in it, or there is something caught in the tube venter grille, can I suggest if both those are clear you hold the cancel/reset button down for a few seconds to reset & reboot it into ready mode, sorry I can't be of more help than this ????
2xs and 2x's is 2 extra small in clothes and not the same as '2 times'. Edited out for clarity.
If the fan isn't turning, either the run capacitor has failed or the fan is binding. If the fan is turning is is part of the ionization process or there is a bad connection.
What the maker says
Noisy functioning (audible loud buzzing sound) is a sign that your Ionic Pro® Compact ionic air purifier is overdue for a complete clean-up of the collection blades and the internal ionizing wires. The internal ionizing wires must be kept clean to ensure silent and normal operation.
May 10, 2011
Ensure that your dryer is receiving proper power. Use a multimeter to test the wall plug. You should have two poles giving 110-120 volts each and a ground. If only one side is hot and the other is not, you could have issues.
Common Causes for Dryer Not Starting:
Let's explore some common reasons why your dryer might not start:
Thermal Fuse: The thermal fuse is a safety device that protects the dryer from overheating. If it's blown, the dryer won't start. Test it for continuity using a multimeter Check your exhaust vent for restrictions..
Start Switch: If the dryer hums but doesn't start, the start switch might be faulty. Test it for continuity with a multimeter.
Door Switch: The door switch activates when the dryer door is closed. Listen for a "click" when you start the dryer. If you don't hear it, test the door switch for continuity.
Door Switch Solution:
If the door switch isn't "clicking," it might be the culprit. Try this:
Push the length of the switch from side to side (without removing it) to see if it clicks.
If it clicks, it's likely not defective.
Reassemble the dryer to see if it works.
Remember to safely disconnect the power before attempting any repairs. If these steps don't resolve the issue, consider seeking professional assistance or further diagnostics
Sounds like you have a blockage somewhere. There may be an animal or a bird's nest in there. Dryers should be fully stripped and cleaned about every 3 years. 'Dryer Fires' are a real thing and there are companies that do nothing except clean and de-lint dryers.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Dryer+Fires
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If the light bulb in your dryer broke off in the socket and caused sparks, it's possible that the electrical system in the dryer has been damaged. Here are some steps you can take to troubleshoot the issue:
1.Start by unplugging the dryer.
2. If there are any broken pieces of the light bulb still in the socket, use needle-nose pliers or another suitable tool to remove them. Be sure to do this with caution to avoid electrical shock.
3. Inspect the area around the light bulb socket for any burnt wires, connectors, or components. If you find any damaged parts, they may need to be replaced.
4. Dryers often have thermal fuses or thermal cut-offs that can blow if there's a surge or overheating. Check the dryer's user manual to locate these components and check if they are intact. If a fuse is blown, replace it with the same type and amperage.
5. Use a multimeter to check the voltage at the dryer outlet. Ensure that you are getting the correct voltage (typically 240 volts for a dryer in the United States). If the voltage is incorrect, there may be an issue with the electrical supply or the outlet itself.
6. If you have the skills and confidence, you may open the dryer cabinet and inspect the internal wiring. Look for any burnt or damaged wires and connections. If you find any, you may need to repair or replace the affected parts.
7. If you are not comfortable or experienced with electrical repairs, it's advisable to seek the help of a professional appliance repair technician. They can thoroughly diagnose the issue and perform any necessary repairs or replacements.
" this dryer model "?? The one that only you know what it is?
'make model (what it is)' first 3 words in all questions please.
Google
make model replacement belt
that is the way they are sold, not by size.
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Question edited for clarity.
Two questions made into one.
Duplicate deleted. Refresh page to see your question.
Thumping is normally can by two reasons
1. Worn rear bearing which normally has a nylon sleeve that wears causing vertical movement
2. Worn or collapsed drum slides or rollers at the front of the drum.
There is not normally foam, the sealer is felt and needs lightly oiling.
No model number given, Google Roper parts diagram
https://www.google.com/search?q=Roper+dryer+replace+rear+bearing+and+drum+slides
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Probably the thermal control is no longer working, make sure you have power on the element when heating up.
If there isn't, work backwards towards the mains input side to fault find.