20 Most Recent Jenn-Air JES8850 Electric Kitchen Range - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Does anyone know where I can find a part 71002871 for a Jenn air oven ww30430p

If you were able to visually confirm a burn at one of the terminals on an element, you probably have one of two issues: First would be a faulty connection at the element. Even if you're confident your repair is good, it's not a bad idea to double check for continuity between the repaired wire (check from the control board side of the wire) to the opposite terminal of the element. Make sure you turn off the breaker first. You should get a reading of 9-50 ohms. The reason for the wide range is that the wattage of the element determines the ohm reading and there are many, many different wattages. Anything below this range (less than 5 ohms ore more than 75) would indicate a poor connection or a failed element. If the element looks good, chances are it's working normally. If you want to double check the element, just check the resistance, terminal to terminal. Should be, again, 9-50 ohms. If your wiring repair was successful (and I'm guessing it probably was), you probably have a faulty relay in the control board, or possibly a burn on the control board keeping L1 or L2 power from completing the circuit (elements use 240VAC) and you would need to replace the relay board or control board. Testing this board can be hazardous due to the conditions necessary to check for proper voltage from the board, so unless you're an electrician or have training in an electrical field, it's probably best to call an appliance repair company. Electricity doesn't always give you a second chance, so use your best judgement. Another factor pointing to a possible relay failure is the fact that you did find a burn at the element terminal. A burn indicates a poor connection which will spike the amperage through the entire circuit, burning the contacts in the relay in the process. I hope this is helpful. If you do, indeed have a failed relay and must replace the control/relay board, be careful not to spend more money on the repair than the appliance is worth. A good rule of thumb with appliances manufactured after the mid 2000s is you don't want to spend more than half of what the appliance costs new if it's 5 years old or older. This applies to almost all major appliances. Best of luck!

F1 usually go back to the electronic control board. Unplug and replug the power back on. If error code comes back, replace board.You might want to check all wires going to the board for anything unusual...make sure they are properly attached etc.

Replace the switch that controls one of the two burners. One switch is bad. Look also for a blown fuse. if present.Chances are one bad element had shorted out the switch (now stays lit) and also took out one fuse.

Model number?

Jenn Air use to make a kit that had the proper orifices for the burners and the valves. The regulator is adjustable for the conversion by simply reversing the main screw. It was intended to be convertible. However, since the model is discontinued, you can no longer purchase the kit (or the backsplash). Apparently Jenn Air believe that when they stop making a product, no one will ever need a part for it again (cough, cough). Good luck trying to track down a kit. I've tried everywhere in the country and a few shops in Canada. I have a gas appliance expert who thinks he can accomplish the conversion by getting a few of the parts from the LP model and then modifying the rest. The orifices are basically the same, only the LP diameters are different. Theoretically, the ports could be filled and redrilled, but the hardware store was fresh out of 1.07mm bits, so I'll pass on trying this on my own. If anyone has a LP model they want to convert to natural gas, I'll gladly swap parts.

The control panel firmware has probably lost its way. Since Jenn Air did not provide a hard reset button, you will have to turn power off at the breaker panel. Leave it off for several seconds and turn it back on. You may have to do this more than once.