20 Most Recent Jenn-Air WW27430P Stainless Steel Electric Double Oven Questions & Answers

We have similar Jen Air double oven and with the same problem but only on the lower oven. The doors are interchangeable and the top door fits fine but the lower door will not close completely at the top. It does turn out the light but has never cooked properly. I checked with several appliance repair shops and the hinges are not adjustable, but since one door closes and our other doesn't it is not a hinge problem, just a defective design.

We let this go too long and are out of warranty so I doubt Jennair is going to do anything. I hope someone post a solution but it is clearly not problem with the henges but with the receptacle they go into.

Capacitor C3 a 68uf 35v could be faulty. Check this link out if you wish to attempt a repair - http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=7902

can't help you with the noise. The knobs should only go back on one way - look at the shaft that the knob goes on, and it should not be a perfect cirlce - one side is flat. The knob should be the same way. Match them up, and push the knob down.

The display sits on a circuit board. Pull the board out and replace capacitor C3. It is 68 micro farads. I used a 47 from Radio Shack and it works great. If you can find a 68, that would be ok too, of course!

Dim display indicates a "failing" electronic oven control. It will continue to get dimmer and dimmer until it fails completely. You need to replace the "clock" (sometimes called the ERC <---Electronic Oven Control)

This is a tricky repair. Be sure you have the power off (at the breaker box) before attempting this.

Tracy

Hi

It could be a gone element, burnt switch, thermostat, or oxidized connectors that push onto the element. Dead element is most common cause. All these can be tested with a multimeter on the low resistancerange. If you're able to make sure it's fully unpowered, it's not hard to check which the problem is and replace.

Please check this links to troubleshoot your problem:-

http://www.partselect.com/range-stove-oven+repair+repair.htm

http://www.selfhelpandmore.com/appliances/how-to-fix-your-electric-oven.php

Hi Sir!

This is Alpug.

Is this question intended to a particular expert that answered your question before?

I want to help sir! May I know the parts of Jenn-Air WW27430P that are you looking for?

Please post back!

This would indicate the actual display of your oven is failing, it does happen, sometimes they last for 30 years, sometimes as little as a year...

Is this a Jenn-Air WW27430P as indicated?

Please reply and confirm and I can find the part for you.

Thanks
Tim

Looking at the schematic I see 2 possibilities:

1. I think the most likely cause is a failed "limit switch" aka "thermal fuse" aka "temperature cutout". For each oven there is a limit switch that feeds power to both elements. So the upper limit switch is probably tripped which would kill power to the upper bake and broil elements. The limit switch is usually located on the back wall of the oven cavity.

2. There are a relay board for each oven. Be sure you changed the right one.

Best Regards,
Bruce
www.fixyourboard.com

Hi.

FC error is Control Board communication error.

Try to reset the error disconnecting power for two minutes.
Trip the circuit breaker or disconnect power cord.

If that does not clear the error, the appliance must be taken apart to test ribbon cable to display panel and buttons.


Here all parts and diagrams.

If you need to call a technician, or if you want to get a quote on repair you can use the number listed on the owners manual.

Regards.

Sounds like another control board failure, common on this type oven. It appears that a capacitor (#C3 on board) overheats and goes bad. Replacement of cap is a simple soldering job but the caps can be hard to find, try electronics parts houses and explain you need a high temp replacement. Should cost you about a buck. See post by BrianGem back in may of 2008, who turned me on to the target cap. Its a 35Volt 86mF. DISCONNECT OR TURN OFF POWER PRIOR TO ANY REPAIRS.

Sounds like another control board failure, common on this type oven. It appears that a capacitor (#C3 on board) overheats and goes bad. Replacement of cap is a simple soldering job but the caps can be hard to find, try electronics parts houses and explain you need a high temp replacement. Should cost you about a buck. See post by BrianGem back in may of 2008, who turned me on to the target cap. Its a 35Volt 86mF. TURN OFF OR DISCONNECT POWER PRIOR TO ANY SERVICING PROJECT.

it seems there is a electrical defect, a malfunction, you can try to unplug it for 24 hours and see if that will make a difference if not there is not much you can do.

Question edited for clarity, 'conversion' to 'convection'. Question moved to maker category. Full 'make MODEL (what is is)' in all questions please, first 3 words please. That buzzing normally happens before the element fails. It is starting to arc inside the metal covering. Eventually they pop and you get a hole in the side of the element. It isn't getting to full temperature because there is internal resistance and only a portion of the element is heating up. ..