20 Most Recent Jenn-Air WW27430P Stainless Steel Electric Double Oven - Page 3 Questions & Answers

whenever you set an oven it always starts at 100,if that's an electric oven most likely the bake element is bad and the broil element is just working and heating up the oven,when you set the oven to bake both the broil and bake elements get hot.if it's gas most likely a bad ignitor,send the model number if you write back,also if that's an electric oven make sure you flip the breaker so there's no power going to the oven before you try to remove the element,i see people try to remove the element with the power still on and when they pull out the element the wires touch the metal and bang they short out the clock assy.kill the power,remove the two screws that hold the element in place or if this isn't a wall oven slide out the oven,unplug it,remove the back wall and with a meter read out the element,remove at least one of the wires first and then check it,very simple set your meter to 20k,ohms touch the leads to the element where the wires connect to it,if you see a 1 the element is bad or open,if you see anything else but 1 the element is good or closed,hope this helps you out

there's a door gasket that seals it not the metal part of the door so you might be able to stick your thumb in there as long as the seal on the door is closing tightly to the frame,when you open the door it should be on a 90 degree angle,before you had new hinges put on the door, most likely the door sagged lower to the floor and didn't close properly,if you think alot of heat is escaping you could have a bad door gasket.so open the door,look at it from the side,it should look like an L or at a 90 degree angle or even up a little,if it is the hinges aren't the problem if you think to much heat is escaping,call whoever did the work for you and have them check the door seal or gasket same thing.you didn't send the model number so i don't know what seal you need,go here and watch video should be similar and you can put your model number in to find correct part http://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-gasket-oven-door-wpw10162384-ap6016005.html hope this helps you out,if heat is coming out with door closed and you have new hinges this is most likely what's wrong

You have a fault in the controller module. I suspect a bad power supply capacitor is feeding dirty voltage to the control electronics. Unplug the range, then open the control panel (usually you get into it from the back). Remove the control module (warning: handle it only by the edges to prevent damaging the circuitry with static electricity from your fingers). You may not have to disconnect everything at this point; you just need to see the component side. Look for any electrolytic capacitors that have a domed top instead of a flat top. Normal is flat top; domed capacitors are burned out. Also, if you see a smaller electrolytic capacitor that has obviously had its can enclosure pushed off the base, that would be bad. See the photo for a comparison of bad (marked with red boxes) vs. good capacitors. These capacitors are relatively inexpensive to replace, usually less than $1.50 US from on-line sources. I recommend using the Panasonic FR series as the most reliable replacements. It should be much cheaper to pay a TV technician to put in the parts than to buy a replacement controller. Note: if this is what you find, and you want to take the module out for service, first go to a computer parts store and beg an anti-static bag from them. Make sure it's big enough to hold the controller including the keypad (keypad connectors can be tricky; if you don't know how the latch on the connector works you can damage the connector or keypad cable, so leave it attached and let your technician worry about it). I don't have the service info for your model, so I wouldn't know what kind of latch it uses without seeing it. Again, handling the module only by the circuit board edges or whatever mounting frame it is in, place it in the antistatic bag for transport. DO NOT USE AN ORDINARY PLASTIC BAG; these generate static charges instead of protecting from them.

Good Afternoon, The control boards in your appliance may have failed. There is a display board, part number 71001799 and relay board part number 12001693. Commonly we see transformers on these relay boards fail with power surges. Luckily, we do test and repair these parts. Remanufacturing these controls will save you the high cost of buying new, and each rebuild will come with a 2 year warranty-- which is three times longer than new. Email me if you have any questions! [email protected]

Have you contacted Jenn-Air?

Needs a technician, you are going to blow yourself up, gas is nothing to fool with

most ovens require a 30 amp circuit breaker ( now RCD unit) talk with an electrician as to the requirement

Use a multi-meter to check the ohm's resistance of your temperature probe: should be 1100 ohms at room temperature = 72 degrees F. Range Stove Oven Temperature Sensor 12001655 Multimeter DM10T After time, the connections between the temp. probe and the control board usually benefit from being disconnected and re-connected to keep corrosion from interfering with the resistance redings the control "sees" from the probe...