20 Most Recent Jenn-Air JJW8230D Electric Double Oven Questions & Answers

If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem. Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake? When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it. Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it. On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat. Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings. Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard. When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps. First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring. Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element. Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity. Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be. To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced. The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!

My 20 year old electric Jenn Air range recently flashed the F7 error code and beeped repeatedly. I shut off the circuit breaker until it cooled. The next day I turned it on and everything seemed fine. We baked a pizza and the erro repeated when the oven was shut off.I opened the front panel and noticed the wire ribbon connecting the front panel to the display was slightly askew. How that happened is beyond me. I pulled out the ribbon hold down clips, pushed the ribbon in all the way, and replaced the hold down clips. The range is now working properly after replacing nothing. The cheapest fix possible.

most likely you have a bad computer board or clock assy. same thing,when you self clean the oven it gets up to 1000 degrees and can and will damage the electronics in the oven,after the things i've seen i will never use the self clean again,i clean my oven with an sos pad and hot water usually it's just the floor that gets drips on it,i take the racks and floor out and clean them by hand,if anything on the walls i scrub it out,don't use the self clean on any stove the extra heat kills them.

Good Morning! What youre experiencing could be a result of a faulty oven temperature sensor, a faulty oven control board or relay board. Youre more than welcome to send both the main control board and relay board for evaluation. Fixyourboard will test and repair both as needed for less expensive than buying new, and include a two year warranty. 5700M662 60 Jenn Air OVEN CONTROL BOARD

Sounds like a welded relay on the control board. You can replace the board or have the board repaired for much less expense.

fan noises are caused by contact of blades to housing, vibration of loose parts or bearings in motor. Check for these and oil fan shaft at bearing or oil holes. Is the noise from the vent or the oven itself.

Hello- 'Successfully' sounds like you were forewarned....  During the 'self-clean' cycle a circuit or connection to the upper elements burned out while attempting to turn stuff inside the oven to ash. Since this is a wall oven my recommendation is for service from a good tech in your area. You may have lucked out with a fried connector, but many times control board is damaged beyond repair and must be replaced. Only on-site diagnostics will confirm, and this is a very heavy unit for most owners to safely service.  - Remember- Don't use 'self clean'!! Scrape and clean with soapy water and cloth. Turn on oven to 450deg. for 30 min. Much safer. Less costly.       Please acknowledge this post if the info is helpful- Have more if needed.  Thanks-  Ed 

F1 touch pad / ERC test This simple test will help determine whether the ERC (Electronic Range Control or Clock) or the touch pad is defective when F1 error code is present.

Note: Some models incorporate the touch pad in to the ERC as a single assembly, in which case this test is not necessary. Simply replace the ERC (Clock).

Warning: If you feel in any way uncomfortable performing this test or making this repair, please contact a qualified appliance repair technician.

1. Disconnect power to the range (unplug the range power cord or turn the power off to the range at the circuit breaker). It is very important that the power to the range has been disconnected, so please double check before continuing.
2. Gain access inside the control panel.
3. Disconnect the touch pad (also called keypad or membrane switch) ribbon from the ERC.
4. Make sure there are no lose wires, or anything else that may cause a short when power is turned back on. Assemble the control panel back the way it was.
5. Turn the power back on.
6. Wait for at least one hour to see if the F1 code comes back (usually accompanied by a beeping sound).
7. If F1 comes back, replace the ERC. If it does not, replace the touch pad.

Faulty range/oven parts aren't the only worry a gas range owner has; the threat of carbon monoxide is very real and should be paid close attention to when doing repairs on the range.

If your range or oven gives off soot, you definitely have a carbon monoxide problem. Soot is the result of inefficient or incomplete combustion. There are always elevated levels of carbon monoxide with soot production. Properly adjusted range/oven parts do not give off soot. You may have poorly adjusted gas pressure, the air shutter may need to be opened, or you may be supplying fuel the oven isn't designed to handle. Don't use natural gas in liquid propane stove or vice-versa.

Increase Engine horsepower.