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LG LSC27910ST Side by Side Refrigerator, 26.5 Cu. Ft. Total Capacity, Temperature LeveWater Filter Status Light, ChiLock, IcePlus, Ice and Water ControLED Display, Contour Doors with Hidden Hinges, Flush-Mount TaDispenser, Matching Commercial Handles, 7 Questions & Answers
If everything is dead the first thing you have to establish is that the unit is receiving electrical power. It is far fetched for every component to go bad at the same time!!!!!!
Try pulling the cover off in the back of the fridge and see if the fan is still operating when you push the light sensor switch in but hold it down for at least 10-20seconds to see if it starts.
Fridge freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:
AT TIMES The fan usually stops working due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.
u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .
Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?
ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required
God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.
Happened to me, too. I hadn’t placed the top hinge covers back on after removing the doors to move the fridge. The sensors that tell the fridge the doors are closed are in the hinge covers.
Do you have a test meter to check if the power button is working and has continuity?
My advice with a suspected control board is always to get professional diagnosis due to the cost or control boards. It would be a shame to buy one and find it doesn't fix the issue.
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While the LG AEQ57518210 and LG 5989JA0002Y ice makers may appear similar and have the same adapter, it's important to note that using a different ice maker model than the one specified by the manufacturer can have potential risks and consequences. Refrigerators are designed with specific components, including ice makers, that are tested and engineered to work together as a system. Using a different model ice maker may lead to the following issues:
Compatibility Issues: Even if the adapter fits, there might be compatibility issues between the different ice maker models and your refrigerator. The electrical connections, mounting points, and water supply might not align properly, causing installation difficulties or functionality problems.
Performance and Quality: Ice makers are designed with specific performance and quality standards. Using a different model ice maker might lead to subpar ice production, inconsistent ice quality, or even no ice production at all.
Leakage or Water Damage: Improperly fitted or incompatible ice makers could result in water leakage, which can cause damage to the refrigerator, flooring, or surrounding areas.
Electrical or Wiring Issues: Different ice maker models might have different electrical requirements or wiring configurations. Mismatched electrical connections could lead to electrical problems or even pose safety risks.
Voiding Warranty: If your refrigerator is still under warranty, using non-standard parts like an incompatible ice maker might void the warranty.
Long-Term Reliability: While the initial cost savings might be tempting, using an incompatible ice maker could lead to long-term reliability issues for your refrigerator.
Call for Service. If the compressor is warm, it means it is working. It probably just needs refrigerant gas.
Unlikely to be a relay if on the compressor, but a Start/Run Capacitor.
It is a $2,000 appliance and worthy of repair
https://www.google.com/search?q=Arctic+Wind+Refrigerator++ASXS1207
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It could be from the condenser coils are dirty, bad ventilation,not installed correctly,broken or dirty seals for the gaskets, food storage that is not organized.Or the internal parts are broken.Yes it could be possible that your fridge had quit working and you may need to buy a new one.
It could be from a stuck ice bucket.Or the water pressure is in inadequate on the ice water lines.The auger motor is broken.Or clogged water filters. Sometimes it could the switch has not been turned on.
If you have already replaced the water inlet valve and checked the water pressure, there could be a blockage in the water line between the inlet valve and the dispenser. You can try to disconnect the water line from the inlet valve and the dispenser and flush it out with water to clear any blockages.
If this does not resolve the issue, the problem could be with the water dispenser actuator, which controls the flow of water from the dispenser. The actuator may be faulty or may need to be replaced.
Regarding the clip for the inlet valve and water reservoir, you can try contacting LG customer support or a licensed repair technician to see if they have the replacement part available. They may also be able to provide additional troubleshooting steps or guidance to resolve the water dispenser issue.