Top 20 KitchenAid KSRA25ILSS Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers

Is the thermostat on the fridge side sending the correct signals to the controller?

HI,
I looked up your unit and the only problem I can see would be the full tube to the ice maker could be clogged with Ice not allow water to enter the ice maker, or a bad water valve which is located behind the unit on the back right side (freezer bottom). I would look at the fill tube start as this was more common.
I hope this helps
Water valve part number is you need is 4389177 I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

The wire in the ice machine part is being heald down by ice I would guess, try and mess with it empty it all out of ice and let it start over again.

check compressure

Sounds like you have a frozen drain in the freezer. You can remove the back panel of the freezer and take a turkey baster and run hot water down the drain line to clear it. Once its cleared you will want to dump an additional cup of water down to make sure that its clear. This will stop the defrost tray from overflowing when the unit goes into defrost. This is where the water is coming from.
Hope this helps _MJ_

Hi

Thanks for using FixYa. I understand the situation you are in at the moment however in your whole question you did not mention what is the exact issue you are facing with your 1996 Kenmore model # 9751714. Kindly make sure to elaborate your issue for a proper solution. Please revert with the exact nature of problem you have with your side by side refrigerator.

Thanks Rylee

Maybe, Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.

Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer

your water filter should be cleverly hidden in your toe kick
it has a removable cap
to remove it i believe its one half turn to the left and then pull out
you can find filtedrs anywhere really
but i happen to know they are on sale at
www.appliancepartspros.com

The defrost drain is frozen, you need to take the cover off inside the freezer and there will be a drain hole probably coverd with ice, you will need to pop most of the ice out first then I use a turkey baster and a tub of hot water. Squirt the hot water in the hole over and over again untill it drains. Then just wipe everything down. Problem solved.

make sure light is turning off when door is shut

Hold the flap in .....the light should go on solid as long as your hand isnt blocking the beam. There have been lots of modules (the motor and brain of the I/mkr) breaking. I recommend replacement of the IDIM. Is there any water in the mold?? Where are the ejector blades loacted?? Are they stuck down in the mold?? Do they rotate easlily by hand?? These are signs of the broken module.

Troubleshoot step by step and if that fails, resort to a professional: Check the Basics: Make sure the refrigerator is plugged in and receiving power. Verify that the water supply to the refrigerator is turned on. Inspect the Dispenser Actuator: The dispenser actuator is the component that activates the switch to send voltage to the dispenser. Check if the dispenser actuator is damaged. If so, replace it with a new one. I list a procedure for testing this actuator at the end of these basic steps. Frozen Water Tube: Disconnect the water supply tube at the bottom of the door. Blow air through it. If air doesn't pass through, the water supply tube may be frozen. Thaw it out and ensure the freezer is set to the proper temperature (0-10°F) to prevent future freezing. Water Inlet Valve: The water inlet valve opens to supply water to the dispenser. Ensure the water pressure to the valve is at least 20 psi. Use a multimeter to test the water inlet valve for continuity. If it lacks continuity, replace it. Check Water Filter: Remove the water filter and dispense water. If flow increases, the filter may be clogged or incorrectly installed. Replace the water filter if needed. Verify Water Supply Valve: Ensure the water supply valve (connected to the refrigerator) is fully open. If disconnected during service, it might not have been turned back on fully. And now, the testing of the actuator. To determine whether the dispenser actuator in your KitchenAid refrigerator is damaged, follow these steps: Visual Inspection: Look closely at the dispenser actuator. Check for any visible signs of damage, such as cracks, chips, or breakage. If you notice any physical damage, it's likely that the actuator needs replacement. Functional Test: Press the dispenser lever or button as you normally would to dispense water. Observe the response: Does the actuator move smoothly and engage the switch behind it? If the actuator feels stiff, loose, or doesn't move at all, it may be damaged. Listen for Clicking: When you press the dispenser lever, listen for a clicking sound. The actuator should make a distinct click as it activates the switch. If there's no click or an unusual noise, it could indicate a damaged actuator. Multimeter Test (Advanced): If you have a multimeter, you can perform a continuity test on the actuator. Disconnect the refrigerator from power. Remove the actuator cover (if applicable) to access the actuator. Set the multimeter to the continuity (ohms) setting. Touch the multimeter probes to the actuator terminals. If there's no continuity (infinite resistance), the actuator is likely faulty. Remember to exercise caution when working with electrical components. If you're unsure or uncomfortable performing these checks, consider seeking professional repair assistance. Remember to consult your Owner's Manual for specific instructions related to your model. Much of this information comes from the RepairClinic site.

Question edited for a lot more clarity, 'make model (what it is)'. Question moved for correct category. Yes they are, direct or from Parts Suppliers. https://www.google.com/search?q=KSRS25Q+WH11+door+gasket ..

Possibly you r hhermostat in Fridge section gone bad. (if freezer working then most likely (if freezer at top & fridge has Iced up or food in the freezer or fridge Is Blocking the Air vents inside that circulates the cool air flow to Bottom or top, check & listen to see if Fan is working inside freezer /fridge worst case scenario is (if you have a p.c board on top , that could b a Fault there also (then you need a Tech, ).

You didn't say but you need to turn the breaker off for 10 minutes. Best to you.

I would check the door seals as if not sealing damp air will enter and condense, causing water everywhere.

1. Check if the fridge is level. If not, adjust the leveling legs.
2. Verify that the condenser coils are clean and free of obstructions.
3. Check the temperature settings and adjust if needed.
4. Ensure that the evaporator fan is working properly and not obstructed.
5. Check the condenser fan for proper operation.
6. If the high-pitched noise persists, it could be a sign of a failed fan motor or other mechanical issue, and a professional repair may be necessary.

Hi, Please remove any facades on the microwave first. This should expose the screws the keep the door on the microwave. Once you remove the door then you can achieve your goal. You might also call kitchenaid to get schematics for the microwave to help you when removing the facades. Thank you.

If the interior controls and lights in your KitchenAid KBFC42FTS refrigerator are blinking but there are no alarms or error codes displayed, it may indicate a problem with the refrigerator's control board or power supply. Here are some steps you can take to troubleshoot the issue:

1. Power cycle the refrigerator by unplugging it from the electrical outlet or turning off the circuit breaker that supplies power to it. Wait for a few minutes and then plug it back in or turn on the circuit breaker.
2. Check the refrigerator's power supply by ensuring that the electrical outlet is working properly and that the power cord is securely plugged in.
3. Check the control board for any signs of damage or corrosion. The control board is usually located on the back of the refrigerator, behind a panel. If you see any damage or corrosion, you may need to replace the control board.
4. Check the wiring connections between the control board and other components such as the lights, fans, and sensors. Loose or damaged wiring can cause communication issues and blinking lights.

If none of these steps resolves the issue, it is recommended that you contact a professional appliance repair service for further assistance. They will have the necessary tools and expertise to diagnose and repair the problem.