Top 20 KitchenAid KHMS155LSS 1000 Watts Microwave Oven - Page 7 Questions & Answers

COULD YOUR MICROWAVE BE TOO CLOSE TO YOUR STOVE, AND MELT THE PLASTIC.

take screws out of side then use flat butter knifes to hold the push pins out of the way so glass comes out then get to the handles

1. Make sure the controls are set properly,that the oven selector switch is set correctly and that the temperature
switch is set to the desired temperature where applicable,make sure the oven timer is set to manual.
2. If nothing else on the Range,Oven or Cooktop is working then
1. Check the circuit breaker or fuse.
2. Test for power.
3. Test the oven elements.
4. Test the oven thermostat.
5. Test the oven selector switch.

not too heavy but i use 2 people. one grabs the unit and another unscrews the screws on top cabinet

One side of the phone line to the unit is bad. This could either be in your cords, internal facility wiring, OR with your Telco.

You should see about 50 volts between the two wires to the FAX.

Plug is a plain phone and see if you get dial tone IN THE SAME plug that the FAX is connected.

You need to take the shell casing off and install a manetron bud. Make sure you discharge the capacitor first or you will get a nice shock. Unless you like getting shocked then go ahead and have at it.

Are you keeping them on all the time?

Or is the the microwave subject to excessive vibration or door slamming while the lights are on?

Both these conditions are factors in premature bulb failure.

I would also avoid cheap Chinese bulbs from grocery stores and get the GE-specified bulbs either from here online or a local home center such as Lowe's or Home Depot. etc.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

I had the same problem with the same model of KitchenAid Microwave. KitchenAid customer service will act like they never heard of the problem, although if you google it, you will find that this is a very common problem. Ask to be transferred to the safety department. After more than 6 months of complaining and several repair attempts (they replaced control panel and switches), KitchenAid finally gave me a full refund. This is a serious safety defect for which they have no fix. The product needs to be recalled, and I am willing to testify that KitchenAid was criminally negligent when this product finally causes a house fire and possibly serious injury or death.

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Your owner's manual should have the part numbers and instructions for replacing them.

You can download owner's manuals and installation instructions for several brands (including Amana, Jenn-Air, Kitchenaid, Litton, Maytag, Roper, Tappan, Thermador and Whirlpool) here.

If the manual does not cover it, then it's not designed for the owner to do, you would need to remove the oven from the wall and remove the outer cover.

You can find links to helpful exploded view diagrams and part ordering help here. I'd recommend that your bookmark this link to your favorites.

Once you get new bulbs in, if they still won't come on, or if they're stuck on, or you have trouble with either fan, the surge of the failing bulb may have damaged the board.

We see (and repair) this a lot. The problem is on the control panel, which we regularly repair nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about a week or two.

This light failure often occurs when a bulb goes out and the filament shorts, or when the bulbs are removed or installed without first unplugging the oven from the power line. Either can cause such a failure on the controller.

This can often also affect the exhaust fan, cooling fan, turntable, and/or inside light operation, too.

Details of our service are at our Web site, along with a video showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

Feel free to contact me directly with your brand, full model number and symptoms.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

Take the thing down. Take the shell off. Go out and buy you a magnetron and install it, but make sure you discharge the capacitor or it will shock the hell out of you.

On MOST microwave ovens, you just have to remove the inner door panel that goes around the perimeter of the glass. The panel is pressed in place and can be removed by using a small screwdriver or putty knife and carefully insert along the seam of the inner panel to pry the plastic up. Work your way slowly around the perimeter of the glass to pop the panel loose. Use care not to pry against the glass. The glass is tempered and also has an RF shield that shields you from harmful RF radiation.

With the inner panel removed, the door handle screws are visibile and can easily be accessed with a screwdriver. Simply remove the broken handle and install the new one. Re-insert the inner door panel, gradually working your way around the perimeter of the door glass to ensure it snaps back into place and seats properly.

This repair can be done with the door in place, or you can remove it for easier access. If you decide the remove the door, open it all the way and lift straight up at the hinges. The door will lift off of the hinge pins. On some microwaves, you may have to remove the upper grill cover over the door (if equipped) to accommodate door removal. Place on a hard flat surface with some towels under it for padding. This protects the door facing from scatches.

NOTE: Some doors have a hinge pin that needs to be removed, or screws holding the door in place at the hinge.

You can view an exploded view diagram of your microwave at pcappliancerepair.com for reference. Just type in your model number and locate the parts listing for the door. If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

there is a black plastic ring in the inner door, remove it carfully with a butter knife and you will have access to the screws

you will need the whole control panel, not to expensive

Thermal cut-out (fuse) can order parts from Repairclinic.com

You probably have a blown internal fuse or thermostat (one is on the top of the cavity and one is on the magnetron).

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, & testing.



At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

You can find links to helpful exploded view diagrams and part ordering help here. I'd recommend that your bookmark this link to your favorites.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Likely the cooling fan for the magnetron has failed. Then the thermal cutout on the magnetron will cut off until the magnetron cools.

Take unit for servicing. The fan should not be too expensive.

tilt id down and push up to unhook the bottom part

Hi,
Thanks for writing to Fixya.com.

There are two reasons for this unit not to start. In the past did you wash it using water or did water get inside the unit by some reason. The second is improper power outlet. Check the power outlet as it has to be Volts: 120 V.A.C. and Hertz: 60 Hz. Check out the document bellow for a detailed instruction with companies customer care number as well:

http://www.kitchenaid.com/assets/pdfs/product/ZUSECARE/kfp750.pdf

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It sounds like a failing magnetron. Sometimes they can be intermittent before they finally fail for good.

Chances are your oven has a 5-10 year warranty on the magnetron.

Please note that FixYa is not currently notifying us Experts when Clarification Requests are answered.

To allow us to help you effectively (at no charge), please post a NEW problem to FixYa, and please include your brand name and the full model number from the tag in or on the unit, and your detailed symptoms.

A loud buzz, hum, or groan is usually a shorted high voltage rectifier diode, but a sound like gurgling into an empty coffee mug is one symptom of a failed magnetron, and yet the mag can be bad without that sound.